The Outer Banks (aka OBX)

We woke up to dark grey skies which was not particularly inviting since this was supposed to primarily be a “beach” vacation. We were determined however to ignore the weather and just have fun.

After grabbing the fair to poor, but complimentary breakfast at the hotel (although the biscuits were pretty good), we went to see the Wright Brothers National Memorial. We had been there years ago when the kids were little, and I thought a repeat visit was in order. I particularly liked the cement markers that showed how far Wilbur and Orville first flew without killing themselves in the process. There’s also an interesting museum which is included with the park admission. Over the summer we had purchased a lifetime National Park Service pass, so going forward, any NPS site we visit will be free.

Jockey’s Ridge State Park

We somehow had missed seeing the dunes the first time we were in Kitty Hawk, and I didn’t realize their scope or height. I also loved seeing all the kites on the dunes; it provided a much-needed splash of color on a dreary day. Since it was our 38th wedding anniversary, I found a teenager to take a photograph of us, and then I took a lot of pictures of the sand and the kites.

Bodie Lighthouse, Then Lunch

We didn’t climb up to the top of the lighthouse, but we did walk down the boardwalk over to the marsh area and saw a bunch of crabs in the water and even pelicans in the distance. It definitely wasn’t a picnic-at-the-beach type of day, so we opted to stay in Nags Head and look for a place to have lunch, preferably on the water. Fish Heads in Nags Head fit the spot. It had indoor and outdoor sitting (most people were sitting inside at the bar), and we ordered spicy peel and eat shrimp to start, some fried fish sandwiches, and a couple of beers. It wasn’t raining (yet), so the day wasn’t totally ruined.

The Beach

I was surprised at how narrow the beach had gotten since our last visit. So much so that if the tide came in, you might get wet. Fact checking my memory, a study by Yale University states that the coastal areas of the Outer Banks are losing about 13 feet a year and in the last two decades they have retreated about 200 feet. That’s quite a lot of beach to lose for a resort community! Still, we sat on the beach in windy conditions and enjoyed the sound of the water and the wind.

Dinner at Ocean Boulevard Bistro & Martini Bar

I had read mixed reviews about this restaurant but found it actually to be a lovely dining experience. Our server was knowledgeable, and the menu was creative. A crab bisque with a drizzle of basil aioli to start? Don’t mind if I do! What about a flounder special with herbed spätzle with a side of snap peas and sauteed tomatoes? Fancy a homemade dessert? We split a solid rendition of a macadamia tart with homemade caramel ice cream. They also wrote “Happy Anniversary” in chocolate on the plate which was a nice touch. It was not terribly pricey, even though the first wine we ordered they were out of and I ended up spending more money on wine than planned. Still, I loved the atmosphere and thought everything was good.

The Lost Colony (It’s Still Lost)

Apparently, Lynn didn’t pack enough socks for the trip. So, in the morning we started out by doing some shopping. Not only for socks, but a few sweatshirts, too. And, since many of the stores between Kitty Hawk and Nags Head were having an end-of-summer sale on sundresses, I couldn’t resist buying at least two. The damage wasn’t excessive (less than $100 for a big bag of stuff I will actually wear), and then we headed to see the Fort Raleigh National Historic site.

Described as England’s “First Home in the New World” by the National Park Service, it has preserved the location of the Roanoke Colony even though the people who lived there disappeared. There’s also a very popular musical production called, The Lost Colony, that has been running every summer since 1937. The Waterside Theatre reminded me a bit of the Globe Theatre in London simply because like the Globe, it’s an open-air venue. (This theatre is located on Roanoke Sound.)

Lunch, The Beach, Then Dinner

I was looking for a simple lunch. Maybe some fish and definitely some oysters. We had limited lunch choices in Roanoke but found a place that looked a little run down but the food (Lynn’s at least) was really good.

I had a crab cake and should have asked for “no bun” since I usually only eat half the bun anyway. Lynn ordered what looked like dinner to me – a huge piece of salmon with fresh green beans on grits. All I can say is that those grits were absolutely delicious! And I kept stealing bites of his dish as I picked away at mine. See the size of the crab cake versus the size of the bun? Really, it’s quite comical. Lesson learned.

We headed to the beach after lunch. It was windy and a bit chilly, so I reluctantly put on a sweatshirt over the bathing suit I insisted on wearing.

Dinner that evening was more fish and unfortunately my haddock was overcooked. But the Oysters Rockefeller were decent, and they had a weird, but edible rendition of what they considered key lime pie. (It was mostly filling.)

We walked back down to the beach after dinner. I had forgotten that people walk on the beach at night and use flashlights to guide their way. Since it was pitch black and still windy, we just listened to the winds crashing against the sand but didn’t walk down to the water.

On To Wilmington

In the morning, we drove to Wilmington but not before stopping for lunch first. We had eaten enough fish in the last 12 hours and had reservations at a James-Beard nominated restaurant, Seabird that evening. So, pizza seemed like a logical choice, right?

In New York when you order a personal pan size pizza, you roughly get a pizza that’s about the size of a dinner plate. It’s meant for one person (unless you are a mouse), and the crust is usually thin. In between rest stops on our drive further south, I had been researching “Authentic NY Style” pizza and stumbled upon a place called “Abruzzo” in Jacksonville, NC.

We found Abruzzo. We ordered what we thought were two “personal pan size pizzas.” About 10 minutes later two very large pizzas were placed on the counter in front of us. What just happened I thought? I looked at Lynn and he seemed to think we could eat both pizzas, no problem. I had three slices, Lynn had four slices, and we still had AN ENTIRE PIZZA PIE LEFT. I took the remaining pie back up to the counter and hoped I wouldn’t offend the guys working there. I tried to explain my mistake, and they graciously listened to me ramble, but ultimately, they just wanted me to take the pizza home. I explained we were traveling and asked perhaps if they could donate it to a homeless shelter. They just looked at each other and didn’t think that was a possibility. However, before we had even gotten to the car, one of the guys behind the counter had followed us outside. He wanted to give us back the cost of the extra pie we had ordered. I told him that wasn’t necessary but wow, what a nice gesture! (I do hope someone ate that extra pizza because while it wasn’t really “Authentic NY Style” pizza, it was still pretty good.)

The next story will talk about dinner at Seabird (hint: it was extraordinary) and the impending tropical storm, Tropical Cyclone Eight, about to hit.

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.

Teaching Myself To Cook One Pot Meals

Last weekend I challenged myself in the cooking arena. I pretended I didn’t know how to cook and found three New York Times recipes and one recipe from Food & Wine that I thought I would “try” to make. These were supposed to be simple one-pot meals, which as many working families know, is a blessing if you are trying to put together a quick dinner.

When we were living on Long Island, I would spend a good portion of every Sunday afternoon cooking for the kids (and us) to make sure there were at least a couple of decent meals I could simply warm up in the oven during the week. As a full-time working mother, I often wouldn’t be home until 6 p.m. and Lynn (when he was lucky) wouldn’t be home until nearly 7:30 p.m. In other words, I needed all the ready-to-go meal help I could get!

Over the years, I had developed a few simple meals that I would make repeatedly. Chili, roast chicken, meat sauce for pasta, and schnitzel. I was able to rotate these simple dishes for quite a few years until the kids grew up. Luckily for me, they both got after school jobs at an early age and often just ate whatever they could grab on the run.

I had learned to cook at an early age. I was not even a teen (12 to be precise) when cooking was an activity I really enjoyed. Even back then I could be trusted to put together some sort of chicken or pork dish in a mushroom cream sauce, make crepes (sweet and savory) and even dessert (usually cookies or a cake). Living in Munich, Germany, also had a lot to do with it. I wasn’t into sports, television didn’t come on until after 6 p.m., and there are only so many books a young girl could read!

To set myself up for this weekend challenge I decided I would try to follow the recipes exactly as they were written. This was a bit difficult for me because as I read through some of them, I knew not only was there a better way to do it, but sometimes even a better ingredient could have been included in the dish. Plus, since I’ve been cooking so long (over 46 years at this point – gulp!), I only follow a recipe when I have to bake.

First Dish – Shrimp Scampi With Orzo

I always have a bag of frozen shrimp in my freezer. This may have something to do with me always hoping for “unexpected” guests and being able to whip up some sort of shrimp dish in a hurry if I have to. The fact that I’ve never once in my entire life had an “unexpected” guest visit anyplace I’ve lived is irrelevant. Therefore, since I had the shrimp already, the only thing I would need to purchase for this first dish was a box of orzo. Everything else was already in my pantry, too.

I cleaned the shrimp and cooked the orzo. Luckily the night before I had watched a Jamie Olivier cooking show where he added raw shrimp to a dish of pasta he was cooking. I usually like to cook shrimp before I add it to any other ingredient that’s already cooked. The fact that he was so nonchalant about adding raw shrimp to the pasta gave me the courage I needed to do the recipe exactly as written.

The orzo cooked up very quickly as did the shrimp. When it was done, I thought there was a bit too much liquid. Yes, there was lots of parsley and white wine which I love but I found even the spritz of lemon at the end was overwhelming. I’ve made my own version of this dish in the past, adding some roasted tomatoes and chunks of feta which gives it the creaminess I think this dish was lacking. Here’s a picture of The New York Times version, followed by mine.

Second Dish – Cheesy Baked Pasta with Radicchio

The next night I put together a baked pasta with radicchio that I had seen in Food & Wine. The challenge here was two-fold. First, where the hell was I going to find radicchio in upstate New York without driving an hour east to a Whole Foods or an hour west to Wegmans?

Luckily, a 10 minute drive to the over-priced Hannaford supermarket in the next town proved they could sometimes surprise you. They did in fact carry radicchio and low and behold they actually had three whole heads for a mere $4.99 a pound! (Note the sarcasm here, please.)

I picked up the radicchio that looked the least wilted and was actually bizarrely happy that I found it so close to home. I mean really, look at the color of this vegetable! Yep, I did play around with this image courtesy of Instagram but it shows the layers really well this way.

The supermarket also had prosciutto on sale which was a plus since I needed it for the dish, too. I sauteed the red onions, sliced the radicchio into ribbons as instructed and added the garlic and red wine vinegar. I cooked the pasta and then poured it into a buttered baking dish. Normally, I don’t like any pasta (other than lasagna) that’s baked, particularly macaroni and cheese. I could never understand why cooks insist on putting a breadcrumb topping on such a classic American dish. To me, the whole point of mac and cheese is to eat creamy mac and cheese not breadcrumb-dry mac and cheese. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

I mixed together the goat cheese but substituted gouda for the fontina cheese because fontina was nowhere to be found. I also omitted the nutmeg because I simply don’t like nutmeg. As I made my way through the steps of this dish, I thought cooking all of these ingredients separately was just WAY TOO TIME CONSUMING. I thought about how quickly I can usually put together a simple cheese and veggie pasta dish (which is basically what this dish consisted of). Had I not been doing this “cooking exercise,” I don’t think I would have baked this dish either.

Was it cheesy? Yes and it actually tasted better the second day because all the flavors had time to sit and simply blend together.

Here’s a picture of Food & Wine’s version, followed by mine.

Besides the pasta that day I also whipped together a “simple crusty bread” recipe that I hadn’t made in years. Originally, I thought it was the same recipe my Dad uses when he makes bread but alas, I was incorrect. This New York Times recipe got a ton of press when it came out in 2007 because it had four simple ingredients (yeast, kosher salt, water and all-purpose flour) that you just mix together. How could you go wrong?

As I was trying to maneuver the dough into the pan I was using, I remembered why I hated this recipe. The dough was so wet it was physically impossible to pick up! Plus, more than one-quarter of it kept sticking to my fingers, my hands and the countertop. Also, I really like kneading dough and this recipe omits that step.

The dough did rise however and I took it out of the oven when I “thought” it was done. Looking back it should have cooked about 10 more minutes to get a crispier crust and not have such a dense interior.

Meanwhile back on the farm (just kidding), it was really cold outside. So cold in fact that there were these really long icicles that were hanging off the roof of the house! In addition to the cold, the wind was howling outside, truly sounding like a freight train. When we woke up in the morning (after getting a nice glimpse of a crescent moon and Venus the night before), I opened the fridge and almost everything was frozen! What had happened overnight?

The only thing I can figure out is that the fridge is right next to a window and perhaps the cold air just kept blowing into that area all evening? This meant that the potatoes I had bought to make that night’s adventure in cooking dish had frozen, too! I tried to salvage some of them but just found myself getting angry that I had spent money on food I then couldn’t eat.

Want to see the icicles?

Third Dish – Salmon With Potatoes and Horseradish-Tarragon Sauce

At one point I owned Chef George Lang’s cookbook “The Cuisine of Hungary” but alas I think I lost it in the last move! That said, the fact that this was his recipe intrigued me especially since 1) I love salmon, 2) I love horseradish and 3) I love sour cream! (After all my great-grandmother was from Hungary.)

I sliced the few potatoes that didn’t have “frost bite” as paper thin as I could without the aid of a mandoline. (I’m terrified of mandolines.) I put them in a baking dish as instructed and added some shallots. This is what they looked like after cooking for about 20 minutes.

Then I mixed together some sour cream, tarragon and horseradish. I was supposed to “brush” the sauce on top of the salmon that would then be placed on top of the potatoes. When I did this, however, the sauce ended up looking like frosting and even after the salmon had cooked, it still looked that way! Which was really kind of weird.

See what I mean?

The salmon was very moist prepared this way though and I loved the sauce and the potatoes. Bottom line: I would make this dish again.

Fourth Dish – Dijon Chicken With Shallots and White Wine

Holy Moly. This recipe called for 12-15 medium shallots! I had bought six, used one for the above-mentioned salmon dish which meant I had five left. I thought five would be more than enough, after all these were kind of big anyway.

I melted some butter in a frying pan and sauteed the chicken as instructed. First problem was that the chicken thighs didn’t get as brown as I thought they should. Since I didn’t want to “cheat” by putting them in the oven (which would have given them the brown color I was looking for), I just left them on the stove and added the rest of the ingredients.

This recipe had a lot of wine, almost too much I thought. Ditto for the tomatoes. But the sauce, when it reduced, was really good and ultimately even though the bread didn’t turn out as planned, I grilled up a couple of slices and we ate it with the chicken. If I make this dish again though, it’s definitely going in the oven!

Ultimately, I liked making all of these dishes. It was actually kind of fun to pretend not to know how to cook and follow a recipe pretty much exactly. I do think, however, they might have been too difficult for your average person who doesn’t know their way around a kitchen or even how to shop for some of the ingredients. Luckily for me, this adventure was motivated by the cold weather outside and me wanting to stay inside. After all, we only turn the TV on at night and there really is only so much even this “older” girl can read.

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.