FLW and Saarinen, Too

Part IV – Road Trip Endings

We left Canada in the morning and headed back into Michigan. We had tickets for a tour to see Frank Lloyd Wright’s Smith house, the Cranbrook House and Gardens, and Eliel Saarinen’s art deco house on the Cranbrook Academy campus the following day.

Problem was that since staying more than one night in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan, (where the Cranbrook Academy is located) would be prohibitively expensive, we decided to stay further away. Which is how we ended up in Grand Rapids, Michigan, a town we had never been to.

Gerald Ford Presidential Museum

We got there later in the afternoon than planned (border crossings, traffic and a lackluster fast food lunch contributed to the delay) but ended up at the Gerald Ford Presidential Museum with just enough time left to tour the museum.

Was it coincidental that we ended up there exactly 50 years to the day (August 9) that he took office? Perhaps. What was particularly interesting for me is that since I was living in Munich at the time (and a teenager), there was a lot of American history and goings-on that I didn’t know about. I mean, yes, I knew about Vietnam, Watergate, and Nixon, but not much more than that. Consequently, I thought the museum was fascinating and they even recreated the oval office. Plus, they also had the famous needle nose pliers, and the screwdriver used to break into Watergate on display.

Both Gerald Ford and his wife Elizabeth (Betty) are buried on the property and there are statues of them, too.

Downtown Grand Rapids

After the museum we drove through downtown Grand Rapids. There were quite a few people walking around and some sort of downtown festival. What we noticed, however, were the stores and the restaurants! Apparently, we had stumbled back into civilization; that was the good part of the afternoon. The bad part was we checked into a Homewood Suites that occupied a certain number of floors of an old building. We have stayed at properties like this before and I find it disconcerting not knowing where to check in or park your car.

After finding the “front desk,” we were upgraded to a bigger suite with a window and a view of the downtown. We started to unpack and as I went to pee, I found out that the toilet wouldn’t flush. So, we called downstairs and one of the managers came up with a key to a different room on the same floor. This room had one window that looked at the interior of the parking garage and nothing else. The room was dark and depressing. I decided to ignore the situation and figured I would just politely complain in the morning.

Dinner at Leo’s

There has been a trend lately of restaurants texting me nearly 30 minutes before a reservation to tell me my table is “ready.” If I made a dinner reservation at 7:30, why would I possibly want to show up 30 minutes earlier? This has a profound negative effect on my mood before I’m even there. Primarily because it signals to me that 1) the restaurant is not crowded (bad sign, especially if it’s a Friday or Saturday night), and 2) the kitchen wants to close so everyone can go home.

We arrived at Leo’s at exactly 7:31. The place was not crowded and the interior of the restaurant left something to be desired. (Think hotel dining room anywhere in the world). I had picked Leo’s because it was known for its seafood. Even though we had spent the last four days eating fish, when you are as land-locked as we are now living up in the Mohawk Valley of Upstate NY, you eat as much fish as you can when traveling.

It technically wasn’t warm enough to have soup (I’m finicky that way about seasons and soup eating), but for some reason the salmon chowder that was on the menu appealed to me. A combination of both smoked and fresh salmon with chunks of potatoes and some corn, this chowder was really good. It doesn’t look like much here, but it was tasty.

Mussels were next. The tomato broth was really fresh and tomatoey, but I was so captivated by the beautiful plate it was on that when I was done, I actually turned it over to see if I could find out where it was made. (No clue.) And finally, another round of perch. We had two more days left in Michigan and I knew that tonight would be the last fish we’d eat on the trip. Sigh. The perch was just okay. And we passed on dessert.

Calder Plaza

Afterwards we walked around downtown Grand Rapids a bit – primarily to see if we could see the Alexander Calder sculpture, “La Grand Vitesse,” which we did. I also liked the way the town had renovated some of the old buildings but kept a few interesting architectural elements. (Think gas lighting.) It was a fun walk after our meal.

Back on the Road

Before we left the hotel in the morning, I did mention how unhappy I was about the room and the parking and the toilet situation. We must have gotten lucky because the general manager was actually working the desk and comped us not only the room, but the parking as well. Thank you for that!

Our architectural tour started at 1 p.m. and would last roughly four hours. I really dislike any event that interrupts a meal but figured we could grab something for a quick, early lunch somewhere.

We drove about two hours southeast and reached Bloomfield Hills. If anyone has ever visited Bloomfield Hills, do you know what’s missing? SIDEWALKS! We headed towards the commercial strip first and got a turkey wrap to go. And since I was adamant that I couldn’t leave Michigan without having a slice of cherry pie, we just happened to find a pie store. Did you know pie stores even existed? I didn’t. Fortunately, they did have slices of cherry pie. Was it the best pie I’ve ever had. No, but that’s not the point.

Cranbrook Art Museum

We met in the courtyard of the academy to check in at the Cranbrook Art Museum and to get our bearings. Founded by George Booth in 1927, he was instrumental in starting the arts and crafts movement in the U.S. and teamed up with Eliel Saarinen (father of more famous architect Eero Saarinen) to develop plans for the campus. The museum was completed in 1942, and unfortunately, we didn’t have time to walk through the exhibition. But I loved the gardens and all the fountains.

A Three House Tour: Cranbrook First

We started by seeing the Cranbrook house first. While it was grandiose (think Tudor) on the outside and had some interesting features, I’ve come to dislike this kind of architecture and furnishings. Everything seems old and musty. I did like their library, and they had an interesting German wood carving that reminded me of Munich. Also, some painted ceilings that gave the place a European je ne sais quoi. When I looked through my photographs, it seemed that I took more pictures of the exterior of the house (grounds, etc.) than inside.

The Saarinen House

Eliel Saarinen designed a house on campus where he and his wife Loja, lived for over 20 years (1930-1950). The Cranbrook Art Museum’s website describes it as a “beloved architectural treasure,” and I couldn’t agree more. This house appealed to all my senses – the clean lines, the modern furniture, even the paint colors they chose for the walls, as well as the floor coverings.

And don’t even get me started on the furniture. Look at this photograph of a bedroom with the original womb chair and ottoman designed by Eero Saarinen. Notice anything that kind of looks Ikea-like? Yep, he was the guy who did it first. And a closet with pull out shelves? (I had a version of this when I was in Munich; it’s very practical.)

I couldn’t resist sharing this photograph of our tour group, all wearing booties, and extremely enthusiastic about the houses and the architecture.

Finally, Frank

I wanted to like this Frank Lloyd Wright house, but I found it underwhelming and cluttered. What I did love about it was the back story. Melvyn and Sara Smith met Frank Lloyd Wright in 1941 and commissioned him to design a house. Frank, in his customarily dismissive attitude when potential clients would approach him, told them to find property first and come back when they found it. Apparently, even though Melvyn and Sara had absolutely no money and were earning paltry salaries as teachers, if you split a hot dog for dinner with your spouse and save every last penny that you earn, you too, can buy land. This property eventually became a Frank Lloyd Wright Usonian house that the Smith’s then had to build themselves. (And I thought renovating the Red House was difficult…)

In true FLW fashion, this kitchen is compact and designed for people who don’t cook. And look at the twin beds and the ugly green bathroom!

There was also an extension that was added on at some point. I did like the dining room and thought the chairs were fun.

After the Smith’s built the house, they also became avid collectors of things. (Think borderline hoarders.) That’s why the house felt cluttered to me because there was a lot more stuff in this FLW house than others we’ve seen. I guess the moral of the story is to be careful what you wish for. You might end up with it.

The Town With No Sidewalks

We spent the night at a Hilton in the town with no sidewalks. When I inquired from the front desk clerk about this strange phenomenon, it was explained that the residents wanted to make sure that people who weren’t supposed to be there weren’t walking around making themselves “feel at home.” I assumed he meant people of color and since he himself was black, I took this to heart.

However, since we were having dinner across the street, we wondered, how would we actually get across the street? With all the traffic? And no crosswalks or lights? Answer: very carefully. We had our last dinner of the trip at an old school steak restaurant where I was so relaxed that I didn’t take a single picture of our meal! And that’s okay. We were heading home tomorrow, an 8 hour plus drive back to New York.

In case anyone is curious, my most recent short story on Substack was inspired by the visit to Cranbrook and the town with no sidewalks. Here’s the link if you haven’t read the first part of the two-part story.

The Town With No Sidewalks – by Julie McCoy (substack.com)

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.

Traveling to Lake Superior, But First Mackinac Island

Part II – The Story Continues

When we had checked into the Holiday Inn the night before, the front desk clerk had given us the heads-up that the ferry we had booked to get to Mackinac Island was down two boats.

“They’ll probably send you over to a different ferry,” she said.

Okay, no problem I thought. And since Lynn and I were both familiar with the difficulty of finding a parking spot near popular summer island destinations (Fire Island and Martha’s Vineyard in particular), we mentioned we would walk from the hotel to the ferry.

The thought of walking apparently made the desk clerk very nervous since she immediately reached below her desk and handed us a piece of paper. I looked down and saw that not only was there the phone number of a taxi service to call, but also the phone number of a shuttle bus that was sponsored by one of the ferry companies in case we needed a ride.

Lynn and I looked at each other and shrugged. It was less than a half hour walk from the hotel, but I guess too far for her.

The Ferry Ride

We woke up to a gorgeous sunny day with not a cloud in the sky. We started walking over to the ferry terminal not sure what to expect. Even though I had booked tickets online, in advance, the tickets were open-ended. Meaning you can use them any day and any time. The problem is that I had booked tickets for the fast boat, and it was exactly that boat that had broken down. So, we got in line and waited with everyone else.

The first boat that pulled up looked like Johnny Depp was going to be on it. Yep, it was a pirate-themed boat. Right then and there I decided that this would not be the boat we would be on. Apparently, others around me (mostly with age-appropriate children in tow) insisted that taking this boat would cut down on the travel time to get to the island. Plus, wouldn’t it be fun? I decided to wait until the next ferry arrived.

I had always wanted to visit Mackinac and see The Grand Hotel. I wasn’t expecting the turquoise-colored water that day that surrounded our voyage to the island. Or the picture-postcard view of the hotel towering above everything else upon our approach. Dare I mention that the pirate boat did in fact pass us as we meandered across the water?

Mackinac Island

Forty-five minutes later, we arrived on the island. Since it was still too early for lunch (thinking we would grab something at The Grand Hotel), we start exploring. We walked up to the fort and decided not to pay to go inside. Instead, we walked up a pretty steep hill and got our view. There we saw both Round Island Passage Light (the column shaped light in the photo below) and the quaint Round Island Lighthouse.

After walking up the hill, we walked back down realizing we had missed the town entirely. While I had been prepared for the horsedrawn carriage rides and bicycles, I was not prepared for the amount of people who were visiting (on a Tuesday, no less). I was also not prepared for the many, many angry teenagers I witnessed who even that early in the day (before noon), were already complaining that 1) they were tired; 2) they were hot); and 3) that their parents were “torturing” them with all the walking. I will mention that at least 75% of those who were complaining were more than a bit overweight.

I also didn’t realize that one of the main attractions on Mackinac was the consumption of fudge. According to the Mackinac Island Tourism Bureau, there are 13 fudge shops on the island, and it’s even touted as the “fudge capital of the world!” Still, I was surprised that nearly everyone I saw that day was consuming fudge, or ice cream, or both. I sighed and told Lynn that we’d have to eat lunch first and then consider buying some fudge to go.

We kept walking and tried to get away from the throngs of tourists. We headed towards streets that were less crowded and admired the houses, many of them B&B’s or Inns. The houses were beautiful. And look at the flowers!

We made our way towards the rocky shoreline and looked at the water. We even collected some rocks to take home. We had only seen Lake Huron once before when we drove up to Tobermory, Ontario, in 2017, but this view was pretty.

The Grand Hotel

We walked up the road to the hotel. There were flowers everywhere and the hotel is very grand. After ignoring the sign that requested a $12 fee per person to walk around the property, I went up to the front desk and inquired about lunch. Turns out you have to pay the fee to even step into the dining room where lunch ($77 per person) was buffet style. Everyone who knows me knows I avoid buffets like the plague. Still, I managed to get some photographs of the interior of the hotel. It looked old but plush. There actually weren’t a lot of people milling around (guests, that is) but I did feel a bit like I was trespassing.

Here are a few shots. This living room had a very pronounced Wes Anderson vibe to it. (Think The Grand Budapest Hotel.) And the porch area was spectacular. Everything was very clean and looked well cared for. Which I guess is the point if you are staying there since rooms START at $359 per person/night.

I mean look at all the geraniums. And the balconies!

Lunch at the Jockey Club

We decided to grab lunch at the Jockey Club, a restaurant that overlooked the golf course and the hotel. As soon as we sat down, I noticed something was amiss. Every single one of the servers was black and only serving white people. Most, I assumed were there on H-2B guest worker visas and they all wore a name tag with a number after it. When I inquired from our server what the number meant, she told me it was the number of seasons they had worked at the hotel. (She was on season 3, but her co-worker, an older man, was on season 25.) There’s more I can say about this topic, but I won’t because I can’t really wrap my head around it. I know seasonal hotels such as these have an enormous problem finding help especially if you are on an island that is difficult to get to. That said, it appears that many of the staff members were from Jamaica. I would like to assume that if they didn’t like working at the hotel, they’d find another seasonal job someplace else in the States. And, when I got home, I made sure to read some of the reviews on Indeed about their employer. Most of the complaints focused on staff meals and accommodations rather than pay.

Even with our discomfort, I will say that while lunch was expensive (but way cheaper than the buffet), the swordfish sandwich that Lynn and I both had was absolutely delicious. Was it worth it? Probably not. Did I regret going there? A little.

Time for Fudge

After lunch, we walked into Murdick’s Fudge shop which claims to be the oldest fudge store on the island. After all, we had to at least try the fudge, right? $14 later, ONE large slice of chocolate walnut fudge was purchased. We nibbled on it standing outside the store and I have to admit it was good.

Back on the Ferry

We managed to take the “fast” ferry back but had to sit below deck. While this trip was a mere 16 minutes, the boat was packed, and I was worried about being in an enclosed space and catching something. Pneumonia? Another strain of Covid? Especially since the woman next to me was coughing the entire time. Lynn’s eyes kept getting bigger and bigger with each passing moment and the minute the boat docked, we got off quickly.

Dinner Later That Evening

There weren’t many dinner options (in my opinion) in Mackinaw City unless you wanted a burger or fried food. Therefore, on our second night, we ended up at The White Buffalo Bar and Grille. They had lots of fish on the menu (including walleye and whitefish), and a decent wine list.

When we arrived for our 7:30 dinner reservation, there was one server trying to handle two huge rooms. I wasn’t sure if she would be able to pull it off (especially since we were surrounded by large family parties), but she got us drinks, wine, and a platter of whitefish each in record time. Was the fish the best I’ve ever eaten? No. But I discovered that restaurant prices in Michigan were running about $20 less per entree than in New York and sales tax is only 6%. So, while the food wasn’t mind-blowing, at least it was affordable.

Final Thoughts

I’m glad we visited the island even though I was dismayed by the tourists, the fudge overload, and the people who have to journey so far from their own home to earn a living. Although it’s been over two weeks since we were there, we still haven’t finished the chocolate fudge we purchased! (It’s sitting in a box on our kitchen counter waiting for us to at least take a bite. Shameful, I know.) But perhaps looking back at our “step” count, we should have just eaten it all that day. I wonder what the Holiday Inn clerk would have thought of the 9.1 miles we clocked that day. Or an irate teenager?

Tomorrow we are heading up to finally see Lake Superior!

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.

The Last Great Lake to Visit

Traveling to Lake Superior – Part I

Lake Superior was the only great lake we had never seen. We weren’t planning on going to see the “last one” this summer, but when I researched going back to Maine and the Eastern Townships area of Quebec, those areas proved to be prohibitively expensive. So, a trip to Ontario, and the Upper Peninsula area of Michigan seemed a more affordable option.

Since I was celebrating a birthday and didn’t want to spend all day driving on my birthday, we decided to leave the day before. This way (we hoped) we’d have no issues crossing over the border into Ontario in the morning. Why was I so considered about border traffic? Because I had a lunch reservation at a winery that I didn’t want to miss.

Old School Cafe, Naples, NY

Our first stop though was lunch in Naples, NY. The Old School Cafe, right on the main road, had been on my “to do” list for a while, and it didn’t disappoint. But has anyone ever seen me post a picture of a waffle? The answer to that is NO. Even my daughter, Rachel, was alarmed that my first meal of our trip was something I never make, order, or eat. I just don’t eat waffles.

I’m not sure what possessed me that afternoon, but suddenly I wanted something different. Something sweet and something savory. Therefore, The Old School Cafe’s special that day, a buttermilk waffle topped with Korean spicy chicken, was definitely a hit.

On the way from Naples to Medina (where we were staying for the night), Lynn happened to mention a Louis Kahn church in Rochester that he had visited once in college. Could we detour he asked? Of course, I said yes, and luckily, it wasn’t even a detour, but a mere two minutes from the highway we were already on.

Louis Kahn in Rochester

The First Unitarian Church of Rochester was completed in 1962. The building was closed so we weren’t able to get inside, but we did walk around the entire structure. Was it the ugliest building I’ve ever seen? No. Here’s a photograph of it anyway.

Medina, New York

We had been to Medina a few years ago and had stopped for lunch. It seemed like a quirky town with a couple of decent restaurants and even some boutique-type hotels. Since Medina is only an hour away from the Canadian border, it seemed like a good choice since there was a restaurant there that I had my eye on, too.

Downtown Medina is small. You can walk both sides of the street in under 10 minutes and find yourself wondering what else to do. We came across a plaque, commemorating a speech Frederick Douglass gave. Was it coincidental that it just happened to be the same day (August 3), but 155 years later? Perhaps. (This also happened to us on another occasion on the trip.)

After walking around the downtown area, we decided to try and see Medina Falls. Unfortunately, the pathway overlooking the falls was crumbling and thus, a bit scary. Plus, there were so many trees and bushes overlooking the falls, that I couldn’t really get a decent view. Actually, had I not heard the sound of the water rushing (plus a dog barking whose owner somehow had managed to get down closer to the falls), I wouldn’t have known that the falls even existed.

After the lackluster viewing of the falls, I drove to see The Culvert Road. I knew that it was the only road under the Erie Canal, but didn’t know the “Ripley’s Believe It Or Not” connection. Apparently, we had missed it the last time we were in town, and since we were the only car on the road, it obviously wasn’t a trendy tourist thing to do. (Since I now live near the Erie Canal, most fun facts about the canal pique my interest.)

The Hart House Hotel

Now that we can travel any day of the week, we generally try to avoid Friday or Saturday nights because it’s always more expensive to stay on those days. Unfortunately, this time we didn’t have a choice, and luckily, the Hart House Hotel had one room available. I loved this quirky hotel and admired all the hard work the owners put into restoring it. It features a contactless check-in, and I’m glad they like to rave on their website that they now have an elevator since our room was on the third floor and the stairs were steep. And no, we didn’t sleep on the couch. Our room was quite large (hence the sitting area) and named after John Jacob Astor.

I would have liked to talk about the dinner we had that night in Medina because it was another reason we had decided to stay there. Alas, it turned out to be the most expensive meal of the trip, and disappointing, too. I rarely post a negative review of a restaurant I’ve been to, primarily because I don’t want anyone to lose their livelihood. I also understand the power of negative reviews on Tripadvisor and Google that can potentially turn people away. The few times I’ve had an issue with a meal, I’ve sent a note afterwards to the manager just as a heads-up and expect nothing in return. My silence about this particular restaurant will be enough.

On To Canada (But Lake Ontario First)

In the morning, we had time to kill before a 1:30 lunch reservation at Trius, a winery/restaurant we had been to before in Niagara-on-the-Lake. So, we decided to take the long way on Route 18 which runs along Lake Ontario. The weather that day was gorgeous, and we got to see a new lighthouse, Three Mile Point, as well as what looked like a laid-back summer town of Olcott. One takeaway from this ride were the gorgeous flowers (particularly sunflowers) that I saw blooming in everyone’s garden! For the birthday girl, it made her day!

Niagara-On-The-Lake

We have been to this area of Ontario many times and it’s still one of our favorite places to visit. Luckily, the border crossing was quick, and although we did end up driving through the town of NOL to see what was “new,” we just made it in time for our lunch reservation.

We sat outside and looked at the grapes still hanging on the vines. After discussing the hot weather we’ve had with our server, we learned that their harvest might be brought in about three weeks earlier this year. Since I know nothing about harvesting grapes, I just filed this away under something “good to know.” Followed by, yes, climate change is real!

Back to lunch. We had wine flights, and we had a tomato and nectarine salad. Then we had a cold smoked salmon plate with fingerling potatoes and poached shrimp. We split a slice of apricot cake with mousse that was frosted with a white chocolate ganache and whipped cream. We ordered more wine to go with dessert, and thinking about this lunch now makes me very hungry.

Most importantly, look how happy we are after this amazing meal!

London (Ontario that is)

Somehow, I had confused London, Ontario, with a town I thought we had been to and remembered as “charming.” This was not the same town. However, I specifically wanted to stay overnight there because of a restaurant that was on my “foodie radar.” I will mention how much I LOVE traveling through Canada, but how much I HATE the 401, the 405, the 403, and any other major highway that reminds me of being on Long Island. Unfortunately, to get anywhere quickly in Canada, these highways are your only option. Traffic is always bumper-to-bumper. But there aren’t any tolls, and there are “ONroute” rest areas every so often if you need to pee or a get a cup of coffee.

So, after getting off the 401, we made sure the restaurant we were going to was within walking distance of our hotel, and that there were sidewalks. (More on the latter later.) I had forgotten that the next business day was a civic holiday, which meant downtown London was pretty empty. Most people, I’m assuming, having departed for some sort of vacation or camping adventure elsewhere.

Dinner at Grace

Grace offers a CA$65 4-course prix fixe menu that you can’t beat. The Executive Chef, Angie Murphy, also has a sense of humor in that she has named many of her dishes. Case in point: the new potato and pickled cucumber dish that you see below, called “Velvet Underground,” is such an unassuming dish on the menu that I wasn’t sure if I should order it. However, this one totally wowed me. The potatoes and the cucumbers were so smooth (hence the velvet description, I assume) that I could have ordered another plate of that one dish alone. Next up: “Gold Bar” – polenta with eggplant, tomatoes, compressed zucchini, parmesan and basil in a thick tomato sauce. Lynn had a duck breast as an entree (not shown), but I went for something a bit unusual.

Titled “Doctor, Doctor” (put the lime in the coconut and call me in the morning), it featured Ube gnocchi with mushrooms, tofu, and cilantro in a hot coconut sour sauce. I did check with our server to make sure I knew about “Ube.” (It’s similar to a sweet potato, but actually a yam with a gorgeous purple color.) Finally, last but not least, dessert was a “Chocolate Mirage.” Also known as chocolate mousse on a stick with a sour cherry sorbet, the dish was fun and delicious. Oh, and in case you were wondering, the “stick” in question was actually a biscuit that was made to look like a stick and totally edible.

A Bit of Bavaria in Frankenmuth, Michigan

After leaving London in the morning, we crossed back over the border, and suddenly were in Michigan. Frankenmuth was a surprise to me. I was looking for a place to stop for lunch and didn’t know anything about this German-themed town near Saginaw, but still about three hours from our Mackinaw City destination.

Luckily, I had already scoped out the lunch possibilities and settled on Prost, a wine bar/restaurant that specialized in charcuterie. How could we resist that? It was very crowded, but we managed to get a seat at the bar. Since we knew we had a big dinner ahead of us, we decided to share a “German Heritage” board with a couple of beers. I was already feeling a bit elitist (having lived in Munich for so long) that I didn’t think the kitchen would be able to pull off a decent rendition, but they did.

Our board had some summer sausage, liver pate, black forest ham (the only cold cut that I wasn’t particularly fond of), as well as a mild “Butterkäse” cheese along with sauerkraut, pickles and bread. We drank Paulaner out of a can, and I was pleasantly surprised that the food was so good.

Afterwards we walked around town, and I tried to think I was in Bavaria – somewhere. I took a lot of pictures. There were murals, there were tons of flowers, and even a little Glockenspiel with dancing figurines. On the way out of town we even got to drive under an “Auf Wiedersehen” arch.

Mackinaw City Here We Come

I love to look at maps and would frequently look at a map of Michigan. (I know, I know, boring.) But looking at a map fuels my desire to travel and plan trips to see things I haven’t seen before. I had always wondered about Mackinaw City and the Mackinac Bridge which crosses the Straits of Mackinac connecting Lake Michigan and Lake Huron.

I had booked the cheapest hotel I could find for Mackinaw City in August. This meant we were staying at a Holiday Inn right near the bridge. The good news: we had a small balcony and even had a glimpse of the water. The bad news: if you sat outside on the balcony, you were accosted by never-ending traffic (including heavy trucks), so the noise level was pretty high. Luckily, the hotel was on the newer side (or renovated, I’m not exactly sure), and someone had the brains to not only put in room darkening shades in our room, but also install windows that kept all the noise outside.

The Holiday Inn was adequate for our two-night stay. But what we didn’t realize is that although we could almost see the restaurant we had booked that night from our hotel, we weren’t sure how to get there because of the bridge and the traffic. Luckily, we found a road that went under both. When given the option of walking to dinner, we usually prefer that over driving.

Audie’s for Dinner

Billed as a restaurant with both a “Family Room” and “Chippewa Room,” of course we walked into the family side by mistake. I will take a moment to comment on families that let their children 1) run around, 2) make a lot of noise and generally behave badly at the table, and 3) order off a kid’s menu when they are old enough to eat “real” food. I just can’t fathom having children who would behave like that in any restaurant and immediately feel hostile towards parents who don’t do anything to change their children’s behavior. End of rant.

Once we found the correct entrance, two things caught my eye on Audie’s menu. Perch and Whitefish. The last time I had eaten perch was when my grandmother, Theresa, was still alive. She lived in Whiting, Indiana, a mere 29 minutes from downtown Chicago, on the shores of Lake Michigan. Occasionally when I’d visit, I remembered many “all you can eat perch” meals at a place called Phil Smidt. Before they went out of business, I even found a retro-looking postcard that I’m particularly fond of. I even put the postcard in a small frame to remind me that their sauteed perch in butter sauce was the best I’ve ever eaten!

I was hoping Audie’s would be up for the challenge. While their perch was decent, it wasn’t the buttery, melt-in-your-mouth goodness I was looking for. Still, the menu was fun. We had some Oysters Rockefeller to start, followed by the perch, and apparently, someone had told them it was my birthday week, so we split some homemade vanilla maple ice cream for dessert.

And if anyone wants to see the glimpse of water from our little balcony and the bridge at night, I have photographs of that, too.

Tomorrow we’ll take the ferry over to Mackinac Island. You’ll be able to read about it on my next post.

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.