Tag: fish

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Seeing Richmond and Finally, the Delaware Coast

After the tropical storm in Wilmington, we finally checked out of the hotel from hell (read my last blog about this if you need a laugh) and grabbed a quick breakfast down the block. Called “The Basics,” this place was anything but, offering a variety of breakfast dishes including a biscuit that was piled with smoked pork, eggs and cheese. It was so incredibly big that I was afraid I wouldn’t be able to finish it. But I did. Lynn ordered a BLT egg sandwich that came with what was described as a “potato cake,” but actually looked like a giant arancini (fried rice ball for those who don’t know). I had to sneak a couple of bites of that one and it was good.

Virginia and Real Peanuts

We broke up the drive to Richmond by stopping at the Good Earth Peanut Company in Skippers, VA. I was expecting the shack-like look of their establishment. I wasn’t expecting the high-end peanuts that they produce. I’m also not afraid to admit that I hated peanuts growing up – any kind of peanut including peanut butter. It’s only been in the last 15 years or so that I can even eat a peanut as well as peanut sauce in most Thai or Asian dishes. Bizarrely, I do like peanut butter cookies (especially with chocolate chips), but still cannot eat a PB & J. I just think it’s gross. Anyway, if you’re doing a road trip and end up on I-95 and need a break, this is a fun place to stop and pick up a can of peanuts. We bought the sea salt variety.

The American Civil War Museum – Tredegar

Back in 2021, we barely had time to see the Edgar Allan Poe house/museum, when our trip got caught short. We didn’t even know the American Civil War Museum existed so decided to pay it a visit this time. Described on their website as exploring the Civil War from three different perspectives: North, South and African American, I thought the exhibitions were interesting and the building even more so.

Built on the ruins of the Tredegar Ironworks Central Foundry, it’s located on the James River waterfront. I thought the design of this building was fantastic and I loved how someone managed to build a modern building around the ruins. Take a look at the existing brick walls inside the museum which I thought was really cool.

After the museum, we spotted a large statue up on a hill and made our way there to take a look at the Virginia War Memorial.

Another Hilton, then Dinner & Breakfast!

This Hilton was like night and day. Converted from an old department store, the hotel was large and still had a certain elegance to it. The rooms were renovated, and I was afraid the sheer size of the hotel would lead to noise issues during our stay, but we heard no one.

We ended up going to Lillie Pearl for dinner which is the restaurant we never made it to on our last visit. When we walked in on a Tuesday night and the restaurant was packed, I inquired from our server if it was always like this on Tuesday’s. His eyes got very big, and he looked at me and said, “I don’t even know where all these people came from.”

That said, it was loud and party-like and we were lucky they held our table for us. However, I guess I was expecting a little more finesse from the kitchen. I thought the fried chicken was solid, but a tad dry, and the shrimp and grits were just okay. Still, I liked the atmosphere and while we definitely did NOT need dessert, I hadn’t had a single peach anything on this trip (yet). So, we ordered a deconstructed peach bread pudding which was gooey and good, but didn’t taste much like peaches.

Perly’s – It’s where you want to be

I hadn’t thought much about going to a Jewish restaurant/deli for breakfast the next morning, but when I stumbled upon Perly’s down the street from our hotel and looked at their menu, my reaction was WOW.

Basically, anything you could think of that would fit under the category “comfort food” was there to be had. Their website states that they open at 9 a.m., so, we got there shortly afterwards. I think, however, the locals know that’s not the real time they open, since a lot of people were already sitting and eating.

Care to have a plate called “The Schnorrer”? Complete with your choice of eggs, fish or meat, bread or bagel, with a potato latke, applesauce and chive sour cream? Don’t mind if I do. Lynn, who loves big breakfasts more than I do, decided he would simply get an egg sandwich. I didn’t question this but made a very big deal about eating my “schnorrer” with extra gusto.

And no, I didn’t fall asleep after such a heavy repast. We just got in the car (after getting a $20 parking ticket in Richmond because the Passport app that everyone is now using failed me) and drove towards Fenwick Island.

The Beach and Fenwick Island

We stayed in a newer Hilton a block from the beach. We had a large room and even a balcony where you can hear the waves but not see them since we were about a block back from the ocean.

I loved the beaches in Delaware. Actually, I loved Delaware so much that if the Lotto Goddess ever blessed me with some really decent winnings, I would buy a second house there. I’ve been thinking about a second house because I miss having someplace else to go since I get bored being in the same place all the time. But if you’ve read my stories, you probably already know that.

Best Meal of the Trip

There I said it and you don’t even know which restaurant I’m referring to. The restaurant is called Our Harvest, and they bring wood-fired cooking to a whole new level. There’s a large bar area, but we sat in the dining room across from the open kitchen, and just watched plate after plate of wonderful things being brought out. It’s a tapas-style menu so while it might sound like we ordered a lot of dishes, most of the plates were a few bites. Lynn and I both like trying lots of different things when we eat out, so it was a lot of fun. Plus, they have an outstanding wine list.

In no particular order, but all were worthy, I share with you: grilled octopus, swordfish, bison short ribs, lamb merguez meatballs (the only weak link in the line-up I thought), and then drum roll please – a wooden board filled with not one, but five grilled peaches on top of blueberry-flavored mascarpone with more blueberries scattered on top. The peaches alone were probably the best single thing I’ve eaten in my entire life. And I’ve eaten many, many outstanding dishes.

Bethany, Rehoboth Beach, and Lewes

Before we moved permanently to the Red House, we drove down to Delaware and spent some time in Rehoboth Beach. I had forgotten somehow that when our kids were little, we’d rent a house (on stilts) and enjoy a week at the beach. Now I’m sorry to report that summer rentals have skyrocketed in price and a rental that we might have paid $600/week for is likely to set you back closer to $4,000. I always say to Lynn, “I’m glad we did things a long time ago when everything was a lot cheaper.”

We walked both boardwalks, took some pictures, went into a couple of t-shirt shops looking for a particular t-shirt we can never find, and decided to drive into Lewes. We had maybe visited Lewes once before when we took the ferry over from Cape May, but neither of us remembered it.

We also visited the Zwaanendael Museum in town which looks exactly like a building you’d find in the Netherlands because it was modeled after one. Once again, I found myself quizzing the people who worked there (transplants) about how they liked their newly adopted state. Delaware is the first state to ratify the constitution, and Lewes, therefore is the first town. If you are wondering how Lewes is pronounced, it’s Lewis, as in Jerry Lewis. I had been saying “Loos” all these years which I was told was wrong.

The weather also cooperated enough for us to ditch plans to have lunch at a restaurant and just get a sandwich and take it down to the beach. Was it fortuitous that we happened to find a really good Italian deli in downtown Lewes? That would make eggplant parm sandwiches to go? And even sell you big chunks of Parmesan cheese? (This is a big deal for us since we have to travel over 70 miles where we live now to find an Italian deli with the aforementioned items.)

So, we sat on the beach sharing the sandwich and listening to the waves hit the sand.

Close Runner-Up for Dinner that Night

While we loved Our Harvest, we really liked One Coastal, too. The food was expertly prepared, and the composition of the plates was stunning. I just had a problem with the space. It was small and kind of non-descript, and while we could have opted to eat outside, that would have put us basically in the parking lot watching cars go by on Coastal Highway Route 1.

Still, I’d definitely pay a return visit to sample things like chicken and biscuits, which was really a tongue-in-cheek dish since the chicken in question was a liver pâté. When it was spread out on the plate, it looked like wet sand which made it fun to eat. The fresh salad and the figs were also insanely good.

Tons of chefs do tuna crudo and pair it with watermelon. I realized then that there’s lots of fresh tuna off the coast of Delaware which is why this dish tasted just so much better than any other rendition I’ve had. I also had to inquire what those tiny round green balls were that you see on the plate and was enlightened to learn they are “cucamelons” aka Mexican miniature watermelons. They were fun to eat, but truthfully, didn’t have much taste.

We also shared a crab aguachile in a spicy pepper broth that was delicious. Followed by a cucumber salad with smoked trout roe and fresh dill that was just okay.

Still, after those small plates, we wanted more tuna. So, we split an entree of seared tuna with a salad that was so pretty, I just had to look at it for a bit.

And Then…

In the morning, we braced ourselves for a 7-hour drive home. But not before visiting one of the WWII Observation Towers, taking a couple of photographs, as well as trying to memorize the view as much as possible until we can return. Which I hope will be very, very soon.

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.

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The Outer Banks (aka OBX)

We woke up to dark grey skies which was not particularly inviting since this was supposed to primarily be a “beach” vacation. We were determined however to ignore the weather and just have fun.

After grabbing the fair to poor, but complimentary breakfast at the hotel (although the biscuits were pretty good), we went to see the Wright Brothers National Memorial. We had been there years ago when the kids were little, and I thought a repeat visit was in order. I particularly liked the cement markers that showed how far Wilbur and Orville first flew without killing themselves in the process. There’s also an interesting museum which is included with the park admission. Over the summer we had purchased a lifetime National Park Service pass, so going forward, any NPS site we visit will be free.

Jockey’s Ridge State Park

We somehow had missed seeing the dunes the first time we were in Kitty Hawk, and I didn’t realize their scope or height. I also loved seeing all the kites on the dunes; it provided a much-needed splash of color on a dreary day. Since it was our 38th wedding anniversary, I found a teenager to take a photograph of us, and then I took a lot of pictures of the sand and the kites.

Bodie Lighthouse, Then Lunch

We didn’t climb up to the top of the lighthouse, but we did walk down the boardwalk over to the marsh area and saw a bunch of crabs in the water and even pelicans in the distance. It definitely wasn’t a picnic-at-the-beach type of day, so we opted to stay in Nags Head and look for a place to have lunch, preferably on the water. Fish Heads in Nags Head fit the spot. It had indoor and outdoor sitting (most people were sitting inside at the bar), and we ordered spicy peel and eat shrimp to start, some fried fish sandwiches, and a couple of beers. It wasn’t raining (yet), so the day wasn’t totally ruined.

The Beach

I was surprised at how narrow the beach had gotten since our last visit. So much so that if the tide came in, you might get wet. Fact checking my memory, a study by Yale University states that the coastal areas of the Outer Banks are losing about 13 feet a year and in the last two decades they have retreated about 200 feet. That’s quite a lot of beach to lose for a resort community! Still, we sat on the beach in windy conditions and enjoyed the sound of the water and the wind.

Dinner at Ocean Boulevard Bistro & Martini Bar

I had read mixed reviews about this restaurant but found it actually to be a lovely dining experience. Our server was knowledgeable, and the menu was creative. A crab bisque with a drizzle of basil aioli to start? Don’t mind if I do! What about a flounder special with herbed spätzle with a side of snap peas and sauteed tomatoes? Fancy a homemade dessert? We split a solid rendition of a macadamia tart with homemade caramel ice cream. They also wrote “Happy Anniversary” in chocolate on the plate which was a nice touch. It was not terribly pricey, even though the first wine we ordered they were out of and I ended up spending more money on wine than planned. Still, I loved the atmosphere and thought everything was good.

The Lost Colony (It’s Still Lost)

Apparently, Lynn didn’t pack enough socks for the trip. So, in the morning we started out by doing some shopping. Not only for socks, but a few sweatshirts, too. And, since many of the stores between Kitty Hawk and Nags Head were having an end-of-summer sale on sundresses, I couldn’t resist buying at least two. The damage wasn’t excessive (less than $100 for a big bag of stuff I will actually wear), and then we headed to see the Fort Raleigh National Historic site.

Described as England’s “First Home in the New World” by the National Park Service, it has preserved the location of the Roanoke Colony even though the people who lived there disappeared. There’s also a very popular musical production called, The Lost Colony, that has been running every summer since 1937. The Waterside Theatre reminded me a bit of the Globe Theatre in London simply because like the Globe, it’s an open-air venue. (This theatre is located on Roanoke Sound.)

Lunch, The Beach, Then Dinner

I was looking for a simple lunch. Maybe some fish and definitely some oysters. We had limited lunch choices in Roanoke but found a place that looked a little run down but the food (Lynn’s at least) was really good.

I had a crab cake and should have asked for “no bun” since I usually only eat half the bun anyway. Lynn ordered what looked like dinner to me – a huge piece of salmon with fresh green beans on grits. All I can say is that those grits were absolutely delicious! And I kept stealing bites of his dish as I picked away at mine. See the size of the crab cake versus the size of the bun? Really, it’s quite comical. Lesson learned.

We headed to the beach after lunch. It was windy and a bit chilly, so I reluctantly put on a sweatshirt over the bathing suit I insisted on wearing.

Dinner that evening was more fish and unfortunately my haddock was overcooked. But the Oysters Rockefeller were decent, and they had a weird, but edible rendition of what they considered key lime pie. (It was mostly filling.)

We walked back down to the beach after dinner. I had forgotten that people walk on the beach at night and use flashlights to guide their way. Since it was pitch black and still windy, we just listened to the winds crashing against the sand but didn’t walk down to the water.

On To Wilmington

In the morning, we drove to Wilmington but not before stopping for lunch first. We had eaten enough fish in the last 12 hours and had reservations at a James-Beard nominated restaurant, Seabird that evening. So, pizza seemed like a logical choice, right?

In New York when you order a personal pan size pizza, you roughly get a pizza that’s about the size of a dinner plate. It’s meant for one person (unless you are a mouse), and the crust is usually thin. In between rest stops on our drive further south, I had been researching “Authentic NY Style” pizza and stumbled upon a place called “Abruzzo” in Jacksonville, NC.

We found Abruzzo. We ordered what we thought were two “personal pan size pizzas.” About 10 minutes later two very large pizzas were placed on the counter in front of us. What just happened I thought? I looked at Lynn and he seemed to think we could eat both pizzas, no problem. I had three slices, Lynn had four slices, and we still had AN ENTIRE PIZZA PIE LEFT. I took the remaining pie back up to the counter and hoped I wouldn’t offend the guys working there. I tried to explain my mistake, and they graciously listened to me ramble, but ultimately, they just wanted me to take the pizza home. I explained we were traveling and asked perhaps if they could donate it to a homeless shelter. They just looked at each other and didn’t think that was a possibility. However, before we had even gotten to the car, one of the guys behind the counter had followed us outside. He wanted to give us back the cost of the extra pie we had ordered. I told him that wasn’t necessary but wow, what a nice gesture! (I do hope someone ate that extra pizza because while it wasn’t really “Authentic NY Style” pizza, it was still pretty good.)

The next story will talk about dinner at Seabird (hint: it was extraordinary) and the impending tropical storm, Tropical Cyclone Eight, about to hit.

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.

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The Trip South

Gettysburg

Originally, this was going to be the continuation of the road trip we started in September 2021 which ended abruptly when Lynn got sick. He is better now and thus, we decided to resume the trip we had originally planned. But once I looked at the map, there were other places I wanted to see as well, so I added them to the list. Namely: Gettysburg, PA, Kitty Hawk, NC, Wilmington, NC, Richmond, VA, and finally, Fenwick Island, DE.

We had been to Gettysburg before but realized as we were touring the Gettysburg National Military Park, that we hadn’t seen any of the monuments. So, I’m not sure what I remember us doing there years ago other than maybe driving around the town. It was humbling, to say the least, to be there on September 11, 2024, and see the statues, battlefield locations, and the cemetery. I took a lot of pictures, but the day felt sad to me. Probably because of 9/11 and also the loss of so many young men.

The biggest monuments were from the states of Pennsylvania and New York. But I also liked seeing the statues of Lincoln and we climbed up the rocks to see Little Round Top and got a sense of the challenges of fighting on that terrain and at that height. The Eternal Light Memorial was also memorable although we couldn’t actually see the light because the sun was so bright at that particular time of day.

We spent nearly 2.5 hours driving through the park and also visited the cemetery where Lincoln gave the Gettysburg Address. I felt particularly heavy-hearted to see the “unknown” markers for those killed on the battlefield.

We had just enough time to also visit the Eisenhower house and farm in Gettysburg, the town the former President and his wife chose to retire in. The house wasn’t open for tours, and we were the only people there, but I loved seeing the house and the vegetable and flower garden. Look at those peppers! And even though I know absolutely nothing about his Presidency, I did get a sense that this was a very soothing place to escape to after being in Washington.

A Funky Hotel, Then Dinner

There were actually more than a couple of places to stay at in the area, but I wanted to stay in town and not spend a zillion dollars. The Federal Pointe Inn, originally built as the town’s first high school, has since been transformed into a hotel. Although it’s part of the Choice hotel chain, it definitely doesn’t look like any Choice hotel I’ve stayed in. The hotel was charmingly decorated with antiques, the bathroom was renovated, and the room was comfortable and spacious. (I mention room size only because I knew that the rooms on the rest of the trip would be tiny in comparison.)

Doesn’t this look like a lovely hotel? I think so. I also loved the fact that some developer didn’t tear down this historic building and just plop down a big box-like building to house another ugly chain hotel.

We walked into town for dinner that night and ate at Sign of the Buck. My decision to eat there was primarily because I was intrigued by the venison steak on the menu. Since I rarely see venison on any menu in the U.S., it was definitely my go to order, and it didn’t disappoint. Also, this summer, I saw a lot of chefs (and home cooks) jumping on the Basque cheesecake bandwagon. I have never made a Basque cheesecake and stopped making large format desserts years ago when the kids moved out. For those who aren’t familiar with this dish, it’s a crustless cheesecake that is baked at a higher temperature, so the top is burnt and caramelized. While this cheesecake was okay, it didn’t have the caramelization I was looking for. (But it did look pretty on the plate with those little puffs of meringue, too.)

BBQ in Henrico

I had tried to plan some stops on the long drive south so we wouldn’t be eating 1) fast food or 2) no food at all. Visiting Redemption BBQ in Henrico, VA, was a bit of a detour, but since they had gotten a recent mention in the August issue of Southern Living, I couldn’t resist at least trying their pulled pork sandwich.

Don’t let the modest storefront in a shopping plaza deter you. When we walked in to order a couple of pulled pork sandwiches to go, there was a sign on the door apologizing for any delays you might experience in getting your food in a timely manner. Apparently, because of the magazine article, the place has been mobbed.

We waited less than 5 minutes for our sandwiches to be made and we were offered free glasses of sweet or unsweetened iced tea. Welcome to the South!

Finally, Kitty Hawk!

We arrived in Kitty Hawk a bit after 5 p.m., after braving Virginia drivers (worse than New Yorker’s mind you), and a line of cars going over the Monitor Merrimac Memorial Bridge/Tunnel. Since the weather was about to turn, we checked into our Holiday Inn and after dropping our bags, ran back out to look at the ocean. (Remember we lived near the ocean on Long Island for 30+ years, but somehow seeing a different part of the Atlantic is exciting.)

Not only did we get a pretty view of the beach, but the colorful prickly pear cactus on the walk to the beach automatically gave the trip a more south of the border vibe than expected.

Dinner at Steamers later that evening proved to be a nice surprise. We made the mistake of asking for a table on the upper deck of the restaurant and it was so windy I thought we’d get blown over the side! I remember eating a really good clam chowder to start, but I think I just kept my head down, ate the soup, and forgot to take a picture. I didn’t forget about our entrees though. Lynn ordered swordfish on a bed of risotto, and I had perfectly cooked tuna on a bed of mashed with some really good fried oysters.

Tomorrow we’ll explore the rest of OBX.

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.

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Traveling to Lake Superior, But First Mackinac Island

Part II – The Story Continues

When we had checked into the Holiday Inn the night before, the front desk clerk had given us the heads-up that the ferry we had booked to get to Mackinac Island was down two boats.

“They’ll probably send you over to a different ferry,” she said.

Okay, no problem I thought. And since Lynn and I were both familiar with the difficulty of finding a parking spot near popular summer island destinations (Fire Island and Martha’s Vineyard in particular), we mentioned we would walk from the hotel to the ferry.

The thought of walking apparently made the desk clerk very nervous since she immediately reached below her desk and handed us a piece of paper. I looked down and saw that not only was there the phone number of a taxi service to call, but also the phone number of a shuttle bus that was sponsored by one of the ferry companies in case we needed a ride.

Lynn and I looked at each other and shrugged. It was less than a half hour walk from the hotel, but I guess too far for her.

The Ferry Ride

We woke up to a gorgeous sunny day with not a cloud in the sky. We started walking over to the ferry terminal not sure what to expect. Even though I had booked tickets online, in advance, the tickets were open-ended. Meaning you can use them any day and any time. The problem is that I had booked tickets for the fast boat, and it was exactly that boat that had broken down. So, we got in line and waited with everyone else.

The first boat that pulled up looked like Johnny Depp was going to be on it. Yep, it was a pirate-themed boat. Right then and there I decided that this would not be the boat we would be on. Apparently, others around me (mostly with age-appropriate children in tow) insisted that taking this boat would cut down on the travel time to get to the island. Plus, wouldn’t it be fun? I decided to wait until the next ferry arrived.

I had always wanted to visit Mackinac and see The Grand Hotel. I wasn’t expecting the turquoise-colored water that day that surrounded our voyage to the island. Or the picture-postcard view of the hotel towering above everything else upon our approach. Dare I mention that the pirate boat did in fact pass us as we meandered across the water?

Mackinac Island

Forty-five minutes later, we arrived on the island. Since it was still too early for lunch (thinking we would grab something at The Grand Hotel), we start exploring. We walked up to the fort and decided not to pay to go inside. Instead, we walked up a pretty steep hill and got our view. There we saw both Round Island Passage Light (the column shaped light in the photo below) and the quaint Round Island Lighthouse.

After walking up the hill, we walked back down realizing we had missed the town entirely. While I had been prepared for the horsedrawn carriage rides and bicycles, I was not prepared for the amount of people who were visiting (on a Tuesday, no less). I was also not prepared for the many, many angry teenagers I witnessed who even that early in the day (before noon), were already complaining that 1) they were tired; 2) they were hot); and 3) that their parents were “torturing” them with all the walking. I will mention that at least 75% of those who were complaining were more than a bit overweight.

I also didn’t realize that one of the main attractions on Mackinac was the consumption of fudge. According to the Mackinac Island Tourism Bureau, there are 13 fudge shops on the island, and it’s even touted as the “fudge capital of the world!” Still, I was surprised that nearly everyone I saw that day was consuming fudge, or ice cream, or both. I sighed and told Lynn that we’d have to eat lunch first and then consider buying some fudge to go.

We kept walking and tried to get away from the throngs of tourists. We headed towards streets that were less crowded and admired the houses, many of them B&B’s or Inns. The houses were beautiful. And look at the flowers!

We made our way towards the rocky shoreline and looked at the water. We even collected some rocks to take home. We had only seen Lake Huron once before when we drove up to Tobermory, Ontario, in 2017, but this view was pretty.

The Grand Hotel

We walked up the road to the hotel. There were flowers everywhere and the hotel is very grand. After ignoring the sign that requested a $12 fee per person to walk around the property, I went up to the front desk and inquired about lunch. Turns out you have to pay the fee to even step into the dining room where lunch ($77 per person) was buffet style. Everyone who knows me knows I avoid buffets like the plague. Still, I managed to get some photographs of the interior of the hotel. It looked old but plush. There actually weren’t a lot of people milling around (guests, that is) but I did feel a bit like I was trespassing.

Here are a few shots. This living room had a very pronounced Wes Anderson vibe to it. (Think The Grand Budapest Hotel.) And the porch area was spectacular. Everything was very clean and looked well cared for. Which I guess is the point if you are staying there since rooms START at $359 per person/night.

I mean look at all the geraniums. And the balconies!

Lunch at the Jockey Club

We decided to grab lunch at the Jockey Club, a restaurant that overlooked the golf course and the hotel. As soon as we sat down, I noticed something was amiss. Every single one of the servers was black and only serving white people. Most, I assumed were there on H-2B guest worker visas and they all wore a name tag with a number after it. When I inquired from our server what the number meant, she told me it was the number of seasons they had worked at the hotel. (She was on season 3, but her co-worker, an older man, was on season 25.) There’s more I can say about this topic, but I won’t because I can’t really wrap my head around it. I know seasonal hotels such as these have an enormous problem finding help especially if you are on an island that is difficult to get to. That said, it appears that many of the staff members were from Jamaica. I would like to assume that if they didn’t like working at the hotel, they’d find another seasonal job someplace else in the States. And, when I got home, I made sure to read some of the reviews on Indeed about their employer. Most of the complaints focused on staff meals and accommodations rather than pay.

Even with our discomfort, I will say that while lunch was expensive (but way cheaper than the buffet), the swordfish sandwich that Lynn and I both had was absolutely delicious. Was it worth it? Probably not. Did I regret going there? A little.

Time for Fudge

After lunch, we walked into Murdick’s Fudge shop which claims to be the oldest fudge store on the island. After all, we had to at least try the fudge, right? $14 later, ONE large slice of chocolate walnut fudge was purchased. We nibbled on it standing outside the store and I have to admit it was good.

Back on the Ferry

We managed to take the “fast” ferry back but had to sit below deck. While this trip was a mere 16 minutes, the boat was packed, and I was worried about being in an enclosed space and catching something. Pneumonia? Another strain of Covid? Especially since the woman next to me was coughing the entire time. Lynn’s eyes kept getting bigger and bigger with each passing moment and the minute the boat docked, we got off quickly.

Dinner Later That Evening

There weren’t many dinner options (in my opinion) in Mackinaw City unless you wanted a burger or fried food. Therefore, on our second night, we ended up at The White Buffalo Bar and Grille. They had lots of fish on the menu (including walleye and whitefish), and a decent wine list.

When we arrived for our 7:30 dinner reservation, there was one server trying to handle two huge rooms. I wasn’t sure if she would be able to pull it off (especially since we were surrounded by large family parties), but she got us drinks, wine, and a platter of whitefish each in record time. Was the fish the best I’ve ever eaten? No. But I discovered that restaurant prices in Michigan were running about $20 less per entree than in New York and sales tax is only 6%. So, while the food wasn’t mind-blowing, at least it was affordable.

Final Thoughts

I’m glad we visited the island even though I was dismayed by the tourists, the fudge overload, and the people who have to journey so far from their own home to earn a living. Although it’s been over two weeks since we were there, we still haven’t finished the chocolate fudge we purchased! (It’s sitting in a box on our kitchen counter waiting for us to at least take a bite. Shameful, I know.) But perhaps looking back at our “step” count, we should have just eaten it all that day. I wonder what the Holiday Inn clerk would have thought of the 9.1 miles we clocked that day. Or an irate teenager?

Tomorrow we are heading up to finally see Lake Superior!

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.

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A Trip To Maine and New Brunswick, Canada (And Random Thoughts About Breakfast, Too)

It was nearly 29 years ago when we first traveled from Long Island to Maine and New Brunswick with our then 1-year-old son strapped in a car seat in the smallest car I think Chevrolet ever made (the Sprint). It was actually so small (I’m pretty tall and Lynn is too) that we even nicknamed the Sprint “Sprint Junior” just to make fun of its tiny size.

This time we started out from upstate New York (already saving us probably at least 3 hours) avoiding that awful stretch of I-95 going through Connecticut. Our first stop was in Essex, MA, for amazing lobster rolls at an old school joint called Essex Seafood. I mean look at this handwritten menu tacked onto the wall!

The lobster was sweet, minimally dressed and the side order of onion rings were pretty decent, too. I’d also like to personally thank many of my Instagram foodies who shared that find with me!

Overnight in Portland, Maine

We hadn’t been to Portland in at least 20 years and frankly, we didn’t remember a single thing. We walked around near the harbor area but weren’t that impressed.

There were a couple of restaurants and bars and the usual coffee places but there seemed to be an overwhelming number of tourist places all selling the same trinkets. Actually anything that had a lobster on it seemed to be a guaranteed sale. Lobster key rings? Check. Lobster potholders? Double check.

Dinner that night was at Fore Street – a restaurant that didn’t disappoint in its open kitchen concept as well as the incredible wood-burning smell of everything they were cooking.

The menu was very creative. Squid with eggplant and green beans followed by grilled foie gras on a slice of homemade zucchini bread! Who does that?

Second course up: Fresh blue fin tuna with peppers and grilled corn. A tasty dish but a small portion I thought for the price tag. (Yes, look at it, it was about 2 .5 bites!)

Finally, Lynn and I split a fresh berry cobbler topped with a biscuit-like dough (not my favorite but more on biscuits later) and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Doesn’t that look absolutely delicious though?

On the way out, stopping to say “thanks” to the chefs working the line in the open kitchen, I was told by a not-so-friendly wait staffer that I was “not allowed” to be there or to talk to them! What? Cooking is a thankless job but I made sure the chefs working that night heard me compliment them on their exceptional talent. And at least I got a smile out of a few of them.

Before we left Portland the next morning, we stopped to see the lighthouse. Apparently, we had missed it the first time and the weather was absolutely perfect to get a great photograph!

On To Saint John, New Brunswick

We stopped for lunch outside of Bangor, Maine, and started with a seafood “chowdah” brimming with haddock, clams, shrimp and lobster. I moved on to eat a lobster BLT with avocado and Lynn held out for a traditional lobster roll. It was pretty darn good.

We had never been to Saint John and stayed at a hotel on the rather ugly waterfront. (This apparently is turning out to be a theme on this road trip.) Here, however, at least someone had attempted to create some “artwork” along the way. I particularly liked the random fish sculptures that were scattered around the downtown area.

We walked into a park, King’s Square, and found what appeared to be a Victorian-era band stand. Although when I looked at it, it kind of reminded me of a squat version of the Chinese Tower (Chinesischer Turm) in Munich’s Englischer Garten.

I have to segue just a bit. I really wanted to find a picture of Munich’s Chinese Tower and post it here but I realized that all the pictures I probably took of it were WAY BEFORE THE CLOUD! What? And yeah, I could drag out an old CD, pop it into my laptop and then spend hours looking for that one photograph. Or, I could just walk downstairs and find the one photo album I needed and just take a picture of the darn thing.

So here it is: My own photograph of the Chinesischer Turm in Munich, Germany, shot in the winter of 1979. Pretty cool right? And if you just look at the top two “towers,” you may see the same resemblance I did. And yeah, it took me a mere 3 minutes to walk down the stairs, find the photo album, flip open the page, shoot the picture, walk back upstairs and upload the shot.

Dinner At East Coast Bistro

When I tell you we had some of the best mussels EVER for dinner that night at East Coast Bistro, I’m not exaggerating. First of all, these mussels were from the Bay of Fundy which is the closest body of water to the town of Saint John and hence the restaurant. Spiced up with an intensely flavored coconut hot sauce with leeks on top, I’m still tasting (and dreaming) about this dish today. Second course I had was a fresh halibut with asparagus, pickled onions and arugula on top.

Yummy! Finally, since I had mentioned it was my birthday week – look what they brought out for me! Lovely homemade vanilla ice cream with a lemon tart topped with meringue. Also, I got to meet Chef Kim Steele and crew which was a nice treat.

Breakfast? What Breakfast?

One of my pet peeves of traveling these days is not being able to find a decent breakfast in the morning without A) driving out of our way and B) paying way too much money. I’m also not a fan of hotel buffets (unless it’s a really decent hotel). Or standing in line to scoop lukewarm scrambled eggs out of a chafing dish and then stand in another line to toast store-bought muffins.

I also like my breakfasts to be pretty simple. Eggs are a must but I don’t particularly like sausage for breakfast. But I’m okay with bacon but only one slice! And yes, I, too, fell for the avocado on toast thing. But then I stopped eating bread at breakfast for a while and I wasn’t crazy about just eating a “naked” avocado.

Hash browns or any kind of potato actually are also a definite no-no. You’re probably thinking, wow, it seems she doesn’t even like breakfast at all! But I do, I do, it just needs to be really simple and preferably served with a little bit of fresh fruit. (But only certain fruit.) Okay, I know I’m more than a little particular about my breakfasts.

I also won’t go into how I would prefer a croissant over a biscuit any day because my Dad, Larry, is one of my best blog readers and after he reads this he will probably be sending me hourly recipes for biscuits! (Love you Dad!) If you haven’t checked out any of his books, he is a funny writer and his books make great gifts, too. Side note: he LOVES biscuits and pie!

I also won’t go into my love/hate relationship with bagels. Well, okay, if you insist. I only like plain ones (and prefer mini bagels over full-sized ones) and also only buy bagels from certain stores. Recently Lynn and I decided pizza for breakfast would be a good idea but then wimped out at the last minute and got Italian pastries and cappuccino’s instead. (This photograph was from a recent trip to Montreal.)

Consequently, the next morning in our search for a bite to eat – a coffee, a donut, a bagel, a something, we walked around downtown Saint John and came up with zilch. We ended up back at the hotel, walked into the dining room and looked at a room filled with people who were drinking coffee. My breakfast “radar” went up. I realized no one had a plate in front of them which meant they had been waiting for their breakfasts a really, really long time.

I decided to be brave, ordered a simple omelette with toast and coffee and then we proceeded to wait. We got lucky. Apparently, the chefs working the line that morning cook everything at once since everyone’s food came out at the same time. So even though we were the last ones in that morning, our food came out as well. Timing is everything.

Since I didn’t take a picture of the omelette or my lousy coffee, I will leave you with some photos of some truly great breakfasts! (Regardless of my rantings above, I really do love breakfast!)

The best omelette you will ever eat. Courtesy of Les Deux Magots in Paris.

The best scones you will ever eat. Courtesy of The Langham Hotel in London. (Note: we did NOT stay there because it was outrageously expensive but went once for Easter brunch.)

The best farmer’s market to enjoy some pastries (and breakfast). Courtesy of the Byward Market in Ottawa.

I mean, even riding the Eurostar between London and Paris we had a decent croissant!

Finally, my new commuting life allows me not only to photograph my sucky”breakfast” at my desk but also share it with my husband, Lynn and my readers. If you’re wondering what it is – here’s more than a clue: Pepperidge Farm white bread, a slice of Munster cheese (or if I’m feeling really adventurous Havarti), a smear of butter laced with olive oil and either green or red grapes. Followed by weak office coffee. Awesome, right?

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.