A Trip to Bethlehem

Note to readers: This is a trip we did late last spring while we were still living on Long Island and before we moved permanently up to the Mohawk Valley.

Since Lynn and I lived on Long Island for nearly 30 years (we moved from Greenpoint, Brooklyn, when our son Nicholas was a year old), we have successfully navigated many roads and bridges to get to where we want to go. Usually the Whitestone and the Tappan Zee* bridges when driving north and the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge followed by the NJ Turnpike when going south. I am proud to say that we have never, ever, had to take the George Washington Bridge anywhere and luckily for this trip to Bethlehem, we managed not to be on that dreaded bridge as well.

*Disclaimer here: I, as do many “real” (and older) New Yorkers, call most of the buildings (and bridges) by their “original” names. For example, it’s not the MetLife building but the Pan Am Building. And, it’s not the RFK Bridge but the Triboro Bridge. And please do not make me say the Governor Mario M. Cuomo Bridge – it’s the Tappan Zee!

Name issues out of the way, after leaving Long Island two and a half hours later we wound up in the town of Bethlehem, a town we had actually never visited.

Time For Lunch – Social Still

Set in an industrial area near the famous Bethlehem SteelStacks, this fun distillery located in an old bank building makes a great burger! While I was eager to try some of what they were distilling that day (vodka, gin, whiskey), I was driving so settled for a beer.

A quick segue here. I’m not a fan of craft beers. Having lived in Munich for 10 years and being allowed legally to drink at the age of 16(!), I’m a snob of what good beer should taste like. That said, I will try craft beers that are Pilsner or lager-like but stay far away from anything that has “floral” or “fruit” overtones. I also like the fact that many craft beers these days list their percentage of alcohol.

From our bar seats at Social Still we had a nice view of the old bank vault where they seemed to store what they had brewed in barrels. I think this shot of the old bank vault door is really cool, too.

Bethlehem SteelStacks

After lunch, a quick drive down the block landed us in the middle of Bethlehem SteelStacks. I’m impressed they chose to retain the space, making some of it into a concert venue, but also giving us the ability to walk around outside of what’s left of the old steel factory. We read about all the people (mostly men) who worked there – often generation after generation. I learned a lot. Particularly that in the early 1900’s the factory actively recruited for workers abroad (wow, things have certainly changed since then) by placing ads in many German, Irish and Hungarian newspapers.

I also liked the fact we could get up really close to all the old furnaces and machines that used to make steel as we walked along the Hoover-Mason Trestle. (The walkway reminded me a bit of the High Line in NYC without all the tourists. )

My maternal grandfather worked for Standard Oil in Whiting, Indiana, most of his life and I took a moment to think of him and all the other men who worked in not-so-good conditions to make a living.

After the SteelStacks, we went into the town of Bethlehem proper, walking around and visiting the “Colonial Industrial Quarter” and also speaking to a costumed guide working at the blacksmith shop. He was a retired steel worker who spent his days talking to a few school groups, the odd tourist (namely us) and anyone else who wanted to learn about colonial PA.

Dinner at Bolete

One of the main reasons we were in Bethlehem was to have dinner at Bolete. On my “bucket list” for many years, this trip was the perfect opportunity to pay them a visit. Chef Lee Chizmar and crew didn’t disappoint. On the menu that night for starters: asparagus salad with a soft runny duck egg and braised beef dumplings. Seconds: soft shell crab with some greens (and more asparagus). For dessert? We split a carrot cake parfait!

And if you are wondering what the word “Bolete” means…here’s a clue:

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.

FLX Weekend

While we are technically only 2.5-3 hours away from the Finger Lakes area of upstate New York, sometimes it just seems too long to drive there and back in the same day. There are just so many interesting wineries to visit and good places to eat that it’s a shame to drive there only to have to turn around a few hours later to come back home. The challenge, therefore, is to find a cheap place to stay and use the leftover funds to spend on wine tastings and food.

That said, we started out a few weeks ago by driving to Seneca Lake and stopping for lunch at Ryan Williams Tasting Barn. The view was gorgeous, the menu was decent but the wine was kind of shall we say – boring? And this after tasting 4 different varietals!

We forged ahead. After lunch we had made arrangements to do a tasting at Forge Cellars (no pun intended!). I was initially kind of wary of having to not only make a reservation for a wine tasting (and pay in advance too) but I sucked it up to being “green” to the perhaps new and improved tasting process. Forge Cellars is slightly off the well-traveled “wine route” on Seneca Lake and they apparently like to keep themselves hidden as well since their building was modest with a simple sign on their door. That afternoon we sat down with 12 other people to try a variety of wines – mostly dry Rieslings. It was a fun experience and our tasting “educator” Julia was young and knowledgeable. I also liked the accompanying literature that described the wines we were tasting and the ability to take our own “tasting notes.”

After the tasting we drove to Watkins Glen and walked out onto the pier. It was a pretty day, there were lots of people milling about and lots of boats on the lake.

Bathroom Shower Curtain of the Year?

I’m not even sure how to describe what awaited us in the bathroom at the Microtel in Geneva we checked into that afternoon other than it was definitely the weirdest shower curtain “arrangement” I had ever seen. Right? Has anyone ever seen housekeeping do anything this creative?

Dinner at Kindred Fare

The real reason we even considered staying at the Microtel was that it was right next door to the restaurant we had a reservation at that night with seating at the chef’s counter. A lot of people I know don’t want to see how their food is prepared or what exactly the crew working the line is doing. I’m not one of those people. I LOVE to see how the chefs are making and plating the dishes.

Case in point: Look at Chef Max Spittler (he’s the one on the left) adding some liquid to one of 8 pans on the stove at the same time! Can you do that? (I can’t.)

Dinner that night was a decent duck pate with some pistachios, their version of fried calamari (loved the roasted red peppers and spicy chick peas with red onions that came with it.) And finally, beautifully sauteed scallops that were unfortunately just a tad too salty. (Note to ALL chefs: Please watch the salt!) Plus a decadent side dish of homemade gnocchi (perfectly cooked I might add) in a light cream sauce with Swiss chard.

Sonnenberg Gardens

The next morning before we headed towards Jamestown, we stopped to see Sonnenberg Gardens & Mansion in Canandaigua, New York. Luckily we had a wonderful docent who was more than happy to share all the family history (and gossip) with us about the house and the owners. We spent time looking at the house, but mostly enjoyed walking through the gardens.

This last little guy reminds me of fountains in Italy. Is that water spitting out of the mouth of whatever animal he is riding?

Imagine my dismay therefore when we took a look at the now-crumbling pool with little to no hope that it will ever be renovated. (The entire property is a New York State park.)

I think about what a fun time guests must have had swimming in this pool so many years ago on this lovely estate. There seemed to be many things that needed fixing both inside and outside but we walked around and looked at the “ruins” and simply enjoyed the history and architecture of the place.

Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.