Travel, food, and some stories of life in the Mohawk Valley.
My new book, available on Amazon (2/2021) in both paperback and Kindle version, is a food and travel memoir. Written in 2008 (and just published this year), it’s the story of traveling with my husband, Lynn and two children. Canada, California and numerous European countries are some of the places we visit. Join us for the ride.
Last weekend I challenged myself in the cooking arena. I pretended I didn’t know how to cook and found three New York Times recipes and one recipe from Food & Wine that I thought I would “try” to make. These were supposed to be simple one-pot meals, which as many working families know, is a blessing if you are trying to put together a quick dinner.
When we were living on Long Island, I would spend a good portion of every Sunday afternoon cooking for the kids (and us) to make sure there were at least a couple of decent meals I could simply warm up in the oven during the week. As a full-time working mother, I often wouldn’t be home until 6 p.m. and Lynn (when he was lucky) wouldn’t be home until nearly 7:30 p.m. In other words, I needed all the ready-to-go meal help I could get!
Over the years, I had developed a few simple meals that I would make repeatedly. Chili, roast chicken, meat sauce for pasta, and schnitzel. I was able to rotate these simple dishes for quite a few years until the kids grew up. Luckily for me, they both got after school jobs at an early age and often just ate whatever they could grab on the run.
I had learned to cook at an early age. I was not even a teen (12 to be precise) when cooking was an activity I really enjoyed. Even back then I could be trusted to put together some sort of chicken or pork dish in a mushroom cream sauce, make crepes (sweet and savory) and even dessert (usually cookies or a cake). Living in Munich, Germany, also had a lot to do with it. I wasn’t into sports, television didn’t come on until after 6 p.m., and there are only so many books a young girl could read!
To set myself up for this weekend challenge I decided I would try to follow the recipes exactly as they were written. This was a bit difficult for me because as I read through some of them, I knew not only was there a better way to do it, but sometimes even a better ingredient could have been included in the dish. Plus, since I’ve been cooking so long (over 46 years at this point – gulp!), I only follow a recipe when I have to bake.
First Dish – Shrimp Scampi With Orzo
I always have a bag of frozen shrimp in my freezer. This may have something to do with me always hoping for “unexpected” guests and being able to whip up some sort of shrimp dish in a hurry if I have to. The fact that I’ve never once in my entire life had an “unexpected” guest visit anyplace I’ve lived is irrelevant. Therefore, since I had the shrimp already, the only thing I would need to purchase for this first dish was a box of orzo. Everything else was already in my pantry, too.
I cleaned the shrimp and cooked the orzo. Luckily the night before I had watched a Jamie Olivier cooking show where he added raw shrimp to a dish of pasta he was cooking. I usually like to cook shrimp before I add it to any other ingredient that’s already cooked. The fact that he was so nonchalant about adding raw shrimp to the pasta gave me the courage I needed to do the recipe exactly as written.
The orzo cooked up very quickly as did the shrimp. When it was done, I thought there was a bit too much liquid. Yes, there was lots of parsley and white wine which I love but I found even the spritz of lemon at the end was overwhelming. I’ve made my own version of this dish in the past, adding some roasted tomatoes and chunks of feta which gives it the creaminess I think this dish was lacking. Here’s a picture of The New York Times version, followed by mine.
Second Dish – Cheesy Baked Pasta with Radicchio
The next night I put together a baked pasta with radicchio that I had seen in Food & Wine. The challenge here was two-fold. First, where the hell was I going to find radicchio in upstate New York without driving an hour east to a Whole Foods or an hour west to Wegmans?
Luckily, a 10 minute drive to the over-priced Hannaford supermarket in the next town proved they could sometimes surprise you. They did in fact carry radicchio and low and behold they actually had three whole heads for a mere $4.99 a pound! (Note the sarcasm here, please.)
I picked up the radicchio that looked the least wilted and was actually bizarrely happy that I found it so close to home. I mean really, look at the color of this vegetable! Yep, I did play around with this image courtesy of Instagram but it shows the layers really well this way.
The supermarket also had prosciutto on sale which was a plus since I needed it for the dish, too. I sauteed the red onions, sliced the radicchio into ribbons as instructed and added the garlic and red wine vinegar. I cooked the pasta and then poured it into a buttered baking dish. Normally, I don’t like any pasta (other than lasagna) that’s baked, particularly macaroni and cheese. I could never understand why cooks insist on putting a breadcrumb topping on such a classic American dish. To me, the whole point of mac and cheese is to eat creamy mac and cheese not breadcrumb-dry mac and cheese. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
I mixed together the goat cheese but substituted gouda for the fontina cheese because fontina was nowhere to be found. I also omitted the nutmeg because I simply don’t like nutmeg. As I made my way through the steps of this dish, I thought cooking all of these ingredients separately was just WAY TOO TIME CONSUMING. I thought about how quickly I can usually put together a simple cheese and veggie pasta dish (which is basically what this dish consisted of). Had I not been doing this “cooking exercise,” I don’t think I would have baked this dish either.
Was it cheesy? Yes and it actually tasted better the second day because all the flavors had time to sit and simply blend together.
Here’s a picture of Food & Wine’s version, followed by mine.
Besides the pasta that day I also whipped together a “simple crusty bread” recipe that I hadn’t made in years. Originally, I thought it was the same recipe my Dad uses when he makes bread but alas, I was incorrect. This New York Times recipe got a ton of press when it came out in 2007 because it had four simple ingredients (yeast, kosher salt, water and all-purpose flour) that you just mix together. How could you go wrong?
As I was trying to maneuver the dough into the pan I was using, I remembered why I hated this recipe. The dough was so wet it was physically impossible to pick up! Plus, more than one-quarter of it kept sticking to my fingers, my hands and the countertop. Also, I really like kneading dough and this recipe omits that step.
The dough did rise however and I took it out of the oven when I “thought” it was done. Looking back it should have cooked about 10 more minutes to get a crispier crust and not have such a dense interior.
Meanwhile back on the farm (just kidding), it was really cold outside. So cold in fact that there were these really long icicles that were hanging off the roof of the house! In addition to the cold, the wind was howling outside, truly sounding like a freight train. When we woke up in the morning (after getting a nice glimpse of a crescent moon and Venus the night before), I opened the fridge and almost everything was frozen! What had happened overnight?
The only thing I can figure out is that the fridge is right next to a window and perhaps the cold air just kept blowing into that area all evening? This meant that the potatoes I had bought to make that night’s adventure in cooking dish had frozen, too! I tried to salvage some of them but just found myself getting angry that I had spent money on food I then couldn’t eat.
Want to see the icicles?
Third Dish – Salmon With Potatoes and Horseradish-Tarragon Sauce
At one point I owned Chef George Lang’s cookbook “The Cuisine of Hungary” but alas I think I lost it in the last move! That said, the fact that this was his recipe intrigued me especially since 1) I love salmon, 2) I love horseradish and 3) I love sour cream! (After all my great-grandmother was from Hungary.)
I sliced the few potatoes that didn’t have “frost bite” as paper thin as I could without the aid of a mandoline. (I’m terrified of mandolines.) I put them in a baking dish as instructed and added some shallots. This is what they looked like after cooking for about 20 minutes.
Then I mixed together some sour cream, tarragon and horseradish. I was supposed to “brush” the sauce on top of the salmon that would then be placed on top of the potatoes. When I did this, however, the sauce ended up looking like frosting and even after the salmon had cooked, it still looked that way! Which was really kind of weird.
See what I mean?
The salmon was very moist prepared this way though and I loved the sauce and the potatoes. Bottom line: I would make this dish again.
Fourth Dish – Dijon Chicken With Shallots and White Wine
Holy Moly. This recipe called for 12-15 medium shallots! I had bought six, used one for the above-mentioned salmon dish which meant I had five left. I thought five would be more than enough, after all these were kind of big anyway.
I melted some butter in a frying pan and sauteed the chicken as instructed. First problem was that the chicken thighs didn’t get as brown as I thought they should. Since I didn’t want to “cheat” by putting them in the oven (which would have given them the brown color I was looking for), I just left them on the stove and added the rest of the ingredients.
This recipe had a lot of wine, almost too much I thought. Ditto for the tomatoes. But the sauce, when it reduced, was really good and ultimately even though the bread didn’t turn out as planned, I grilled up a couple of slices and we ate it with the chicken. If I make this dish again though, it’s definitely going in the oven!
Ultimately, I liked making all of these dishes. It was actually kind of fun to pretend not to know how to cook and follow a recipe pretty much exactly. I do think, however, they might have been too difficult for your average person who doesn’t know their way around a kitchen or even how to shop for some of the ingredients. Luckily for me, this adventure was motivated by the cold weather outside and me wanting to stay inside. After all, we only turn the TV on at night and there really is only so much even this “older” girl can read.
Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.
Lynn and I had been to Philadelphia a few times. We had taken the kids to do the usual touristy things (Liberty Bell and Independence Hall) but we had never spent more than 24 hours there. This time would be different. There were a few new museums we wanted to see, restaurants we wanted to try and most of all a walking tour we wanted to go on.
First thing I have to mention though is how incredibly dirty Philadelphia seemed. I started researching this and it’s been an ongoing problem that doesn’t seem to have gotten any better in posts dating back over a decade. People complain about the trash but nothing seems to have improved! Driving into the city we were baffled by the amount of debris and plastic we saw everywhere. I mean people were even throwing out what looked like a brand new teddy bear! Truthfully it made NYC seem like the cleanest city on earth!
We had tickets to see a new play that weekend but first we visited the University of Pennsylvania to see Louis Kahn’s Richards and Goddard buildings – a medical research lab and classrooms. I’ve found that many of these so-called “modern” buildings of the time (1960) have not weathered well. This seemed in better shape than most but still cement does crumble and steel does corrode.
Dinner that night was at a restaurant we had eaten at before. Stephen Starr’s classic take on a French bistro, Parc, located on Rittenhouse Square, never disappoints. Yes, it’s crowded, yes, it’s noisy, but the food is consistently good. Dinner that night: escargots, lamb shank, cassoulet and for dessert a plate of profiteroles.
In the morning we headed over to the Old City and decided to go on a walking tour of the area. We had never done this before and our guide, Craig, was knowledgeable and fun to talk to. We also learned about some of the buildings we had walked by on previous visits. This time their importance during the creation of the Declaration of Independence and the U.S. Constitution was explained to us.
Of course everywhere you go, the majestic tower of City Hall and tributes to one of the Founding Fathers of this country, Benjamin Franklin, are prominent.
There is also a lot of amazing Greek Revival architecture in Philadelphia. Plus, I’m partial to columns even though I tore down the ones in front of the Red House!
We were introduced to the Second Bank of the United States which now houses a portrait gallery.
And the site of Benjamin Franklin’s original house (now long gone) but memorialized by architect Robert Venturi as a “ghost structure” in Franklin Court.
And lots of statues.
Afterwards, when we went inside the National Constitution Center, there were even more statues! I have to assume these men, important leaders during their day, were built according to their actual height (most seemed quite short). It was fun to walk around their very lifelike forms and look at all the details that were incorporated into the sculpture. Buttons! Shoe buckles! And cravats! (Yes, that’s what ties were called back then.)
Afterwards we walked to Elfreth’s Alley, supposedly the oldest residential street in America. I was happy to see there was not a single piece of trash on this street! And the houses were nicely maintained.
I love the red shutters and matching doors on this house.
Betsy Ross And A Fifth Grade Field Trip
In 1971 after being in Munich for two years, we moved back to New York briefly. I happened to be in fifth grade on Long Island when we had a class field trip to Philadelphia. I remember very little about the trip other than visiting the Betsy Ross house. I found a couple of photographs that I took nearly half a century ago and realized that the decrepit building that was next to her house is no longer.
I also found a photograph of me in front of the house. Look at the blue “dress” coat with big brass buttons (although the sleeves do look a little short) I’m wearing. I decided to crop out of the photograph the other girls I was traveling with that day, but when I looked at the picture, I was the only student who had a camera in her hand! This photograph of me must have either be taken by a teacher or a parent who went along for the ride.
Here’s me today squinting in the sun with my hair nearly the same length! And wearing a blue (and much warmer coat) I purchased over the Christmas holiday.
After Betsy Ross, we grabbed a quick lunch (fish tacos and shrimp po’ boy’s) at Redding Terminal Market (no pictures it was too crowded) and then headed over to see the new Museum of the American Revolution. There was a lot of walking that day.
Dinner that night was at a restaurant I had been wanting to try for a while. High Street on Market is a cute little place with a small but very creative menu. Endive salad with golden beets, blue cheese, pistachios and blood oranges ? House-made agnoletti pasta with cauliflower, chili peppers and walnuts? Cherry pie? It was all pretty good and the only disappointing dish was a minuscule overpriced cheese plate which I won’t talk about.
Eastern State Penitentiary
We had never visited the famous prison and weren’t sure what to expect. They are doing extensive renovation work on the site which luckily didn’t seem to impact our visit at all. Once labeled the most famous and expensive prison in the world, what’s left is eerie and cold inside. Steve Buscemi, the actor, was the narrator on the audio tour as we walked around looking at the various cells and long hallways. We could only imagine what it was like being incarcerated back then.
Here’s a shot of the kind of conditions other inmates were living in (minus the peeling paint and debris on the floor one would hope). And here’s a cell that the museum staff decided to recreate based on newspaper accounts of one of their more famous prisoners – Al Capone.
I mean, look at these pretty luxurious accommodations. Mr. Capone even had a desk and a radio and clean sheets as well as a couple of throw rugs to cover the cement floor!
The prison was huge and I didn’t feel particularly claustrophobic when I was inside even when I looked out the windows.
However, once I went outside and walked along the very high stone walls, the feeling to “escape” (especially when I saw the watch tower) did come upon me.
What do you do after you visit a prison? You go to lunch!
We decided to stop for pizza at the nearby Pizzeria Vetri. We got off to a rocky start with the wait staff (couldn’t get anyone to even notice we were sitting at the counter for a good 10 minutes) but once I got up to make our presence known we had a lovely lunch. They make pretty decent pizzas – one we had was topped with crudo and chunks of mozzarella di bufala. The other was a pie with fennel sausage (and some fennel fronds scattered on top) which I liked. Plus we had a decent version of Caesar salad with anchovies, lots of Parmesan and a hard boiled egg.
Afterwards we could have used a nap (big lunch plus wine plus 60 degree weather) but instead walked over to the famous (or should I say infamous) “Rocky” stairs at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. We even saw a “Rocky” impersonator taking pictures with some tourists. Then we walked around the back of the building to get a view of the Fairmount Water Works complex on the Schuylkill River.
Frank Lloyd Wright
The next morning on the way out of town we stopped to see the only synagogue Frank Lloyd Wright designed. Located in Elkins Park, PA, the Beth Sholom Synagogue is very different (at least in my opinion) than any of his other work. Described as being designed in a “Mayan Revival style,” the roof rises up like a mountain with carved cement-looking stones jutting out on the sides. Unfortunately, there weren’t any tours scheduled that day so we couldn’t peek inside.
Henry Mercer and Fonthill Castle
We had originally intended to stop off in Doylestown, PA, on the way to Philadelphia but decided we didn’t have enough time so we decided to do it on the way home. I had seen pictures of Fonthill Castle and thought it looked a bit strange. Built between 1908-1912, Henry Mercer had the house built entirely out of reinforced concrete. He then filled the castle with Moravian tiles that he designed as well as other tiles and prints that he collected from around the world. There were so many rooms to look at that were literally crammed with (for lack of a better word) – stuff. There were also some amazing staircases, vaulted ceilings and a couple of built-in furniture pieces that I thought were pretty neat. I took quite a few photographs of this “house” so I’ll just share a few of them with you.
Here’s a panoramic shot of the house. Luckily we had a beautiful sunny day which really helped the gray cement structure stand out against the blue sky.
This was the “yellow” room, Henry’s first bedroom in the castle. I love the arches and the columns he made in this room. And look at this crazy ceiling in the next photograph with all those different types of tiles and ceramic pots he had collected.
Then there were the fireplaces, 17 in total I believe.
Besides his enormous display of books, my favorite room was his office. It held four desks! One for paying bills, one for writing (complete with a typewriter), one for drafting and the final one for correspondence. Guess which one this is? (Hint: drafting.)
In fairness, I found this house overwhelming, there was just too much to look at and digest. I found one small tile on the tour though that I found amusing. Was he making fun of himself? Or was it a literal statement of his love of letter writing? Who knows.
Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.
We had been to Backhouse in Niagara-on-the-Lake for lunch last fall. The restaurant, set in a non-descript row of shops away from the main tourist scene, was a definite find. We enjoyed our lunch so much that October afternoon that I was determined to return for dinner, and so we did two weeks ago.
Backhouse, with Chef Ryan Crawford at the helm, focuses primarily on wood-fired cooking. This means if you have the opportunity to sit at the “kitchen bar” you will get a first-hand look at everything that is being prepared, sliced, roasted, grilled and plated. It’s basically like getting a front row seat to see your favorite rock band.
Cooking on the line that night was a young woman who answered by the name of Chef Ashley. She was very busy making pasta, checking to make sure the fire in front of us was at the right temperature and adding more chunks of wood when it wasn’t. She was also stirring soups, tasting the dishes she was preparing and plating, too! It was fun watching her focus so intently on her craft.
The Beginning
I will admit I do read TripAdvisor reviews before I visit a restaurant. I also discount the ones that many people write when they complain about portions being small, a menu being “weird” and dishes too expensive. I figure those people shouldn’t be at that restaurant in the first place. (I will confess I am both a restaurant and food snob.)
After we had decided we were going to do the chef’s tasting menu of yes, twelve courses, two gorgeous silk cutlery rolls were placed before us.
The fact that we were given numerous utensils to choose from (big and small spoons, knifes, forks and even chopsticks) made such incredible sense to me. Not only could we, as diners, choose how we wanted to eat a certain dish, but it freed up the servers from having to run back and forth to replace our silverware after every course.
While some people I have read complained about this “gimmick,” I actually thought it was brilliant. Plus I loved the Asian feel of the roll and I can’t say that I’ve ever eaten with brass-colored silverware!
First Course
We started with an amuse bouche of a single gougère stuffed with duck liver mousse. Not only was this bite a delicious savory treat but I loved the vessel it was served in. Look at the feet!
Second Course
Lynn had eaten this dish before – a creamy egg mousse concoction nestled in an eggshell and topped with gorgeous hunter green kale “pearls.” It was a melt in your mouth treat and we both wanted more of it.
See what good eaters we are?
In between courses we got to look around at the restaurant decor. There was lots of wood. And wine. And the roaring fire in front of us.
And there were knives!
Third Course
This course amused me. It was essentially a potato on a plate with some spicy crumbled sausage on the side. In concept it looked like a variation of a hasselback potato but these were cut in the shape of a mille feuille. Hence, when you cut into it, you could see the very thin layers of this perfectly cooked potato. I took two shots of this dish; the first one as it was served to us. The second one I tore apart briefly with my fork to show you the layers.
Fourth Course
Next up was bread and butter. Now normally this isn’t even considered a “course” in most restaurants since most places will bring a basket of bread to the table once you’ve sat down. But at Backhouse both the bread and the butter are homemade and of course baked in the wood oven. I think we ate ALL of the sourdough bread before I remembered to take a picture. Luckily, I managed to snap a photograph of the three butters served that evening before being devoured as well.
Fifth Course
I love soup. I especially love root vegetable purées. Tonight’s featured soup special was a squash purée that was topped with some crispy prosciutto, a few cubes of roasted squash and what looked like a sage leaf but might have been a piece of crispy kale. The fact that we watched one of the chefs slice the prosciutto on a handy Italian slicer, then crisp it in a pan to be used in the soup was mouth-watering. (I also on occasion have fried up some prosciutto for breakfast instead of bacon. I prefer the taste and try to tell myself it’s a “healthier” option.)
Look at this gorgeous slicer! It’s sharp! It’s red! There was a trend in Munich in the 1970’s where it was considered perfectly normal to have a meat slicer in your home kitchen. There you could buy large quantities of smoked meats (salami, ham, bologna) and slice them up to feed cold cuts to your family. Since Germans ate a lot of cold cuts this struck me as being both practical and economical. We never had a meat slicer but it was probably a good kitchen gadget to have if one was so inclined to eat that way.
Sixth Course
A play on words describes our next course which was a salad. In “Leaf it to Ashley,” the chef noted above who was cooking for us that evening, it contained some greens (including frisée which I love), croutons, more prosciutto and a couple of other items that are beyond my description.
I need to divert here a bit and talk about the greenhouses in this area of Ontario. Crossing over the border near Buffalo and/or Niagara Falls we see a lot of land and trees. Once however we drive closer to St. Catherine and Hamilton, we see greenhouses. Massive greenhouses. The bulk of many of the vegetables I’m buying these days seem to come from these big greenhouses. Case in point, at my local Price Chopper, a good 75% of the produce (Boston lettuce, cucumbers, radishes, green onions and tomatoes) have a “Product of Canada” sticker on them. Since we are closer to Canada now, I actually prefer buying these food items rather than an avocado that comes from California or an orange from Costa Rica.
Seventh Course
Before this course was served to us, we got to observe another chef who was rolling out dough to make what looked like handmade penne. I won’t have to tell you that pasta is one of my favorite things to eat – macaroni and cheese in particular. (And yes, I do believe it’s a cardinal sin to bake said dish in the oven and top it with breadcrumbs!)
Imagine my delight then when we were served some thick rigatoni-like noodles tossed in a kale and walnut pesto with some shards of cheese on top. While I’m not a big kale fan (I find the stuff tasteless and cardboard-like), this absolutely worked in this dish. I know kale is supposed to be healthy, but hey, a girl can’t like everything!
Eighth Course
Even though it was a prix fixe set menu, our server let me switch out the guinea hen course (aka “chicken”) and have the spring trout instead. Lynn’s chicken, I mean guinea hen, came with some lovely beets. It was perfectly roasted but truthfully my trout with more kale (!) and some grainy mustard and horseradish was better.
Ninth Course
I’m tired of seeing “pork belly” on a menu. First of all, you can swear up and down about how good eating “fat” is. It’s not. Perhaps it’s because I grew up with more than the occasional fatty piece of meat at the dinner table that I could barely choke down and inevitably would try to get rid of whatever I was chewing by doing the cough-in-the-napkin-thing. This is why to this day I always prefer to order fish rather than meat when dining out. This was the only course so far that was just okay. Don’t get me wrong I love pork and ham and anything pork-like that is pulled or barbecued. It’s just that me and pork belly, well, I just don’t get it..
Tenth Course
And then when asked what type of cheese was available, I was told they had over 25 varieties! We were brought out a selection of three firm cheeses (including an amazing cheddar) and one soft. Where’s the cheese you ask? Apparently I forgot to take a photograph BEFORE we started to dig in and all that was left were a few slices of sourdough walnut and raisin bread and the remnants of the cheese slate.
Eleventh Course
In this part of Ontario, ice wine is a big deal. Since I detest sweet wines (and any type of dessert wine for that matter), ice wine and I are never going to be a couple. The ice wine “float” that they brought to the counter reminded me of the old school lemon sorbets certain “fancy” restaurants used to bring to you between courses. This was supposed to “cleanse your palate” – or prepare it so to speak – for the next course. Luckily, this “float” wasn’t terribly sweet, and I loved the bit of fun this course brought to the bar.
Ice wine was poured into a champagne glass holding a dollop of sorbet and some carbonated water was spritzed out of a soda siphon into the glass right in front of you. It worked.
Twelfth and Final Courses!
Beet Cake and Roasted Squash Crumble
Besides switching out my entree, I was also allowed to choose a different dessert. I usually get away with this because I say something along the lines of “wow, I’ve never had (insert name of dish here) before and I would really like to try it.” This kind of menu enthusiasm has never failed me.
Let me talk about one review about the beet cake that I read on TripAdvisor. Someone absolutely hated it which is why I so desperately wanted to try it. In fairness, you have to like beets and be okay with the fact that sometimes dessert doesn’t have to be sugary, sweet or have chocolate in it. The beet cake they brought out that evening had the consistency of a pound cake but with an intense savory beet topping. Was it the best dessert I’ve ever had? No. Was it the most creative? Yes.
Lynn’s dessert was a slice of roasted squash with some crumble and a mousse-like cream. I had some of his, too.
Finally, we are not gluttons. Each of the twelve plates served was truly a small plate, think tapas. It takes a long time to get through this meal (3 hours!) but it doesn’t drag on. There’s a lot to take in visually since the chefs are working right in front of you. Plus, there’s lots and lots of good Niagara escarpment wine to drink. And to that we say Cheers!
I had only taken a cooking class once before on Long Island at a Viking appliance showroom. They were hosting cooking classes using the showroom’s equipment in hopes that after the class you would order a $6,000 stove because you had just prepared something on one and were impressed. I wrote a funny article about it over 11 years ago which I invite you to read. (Note to readers: this article was written before my cellphone had a camera. Imagine that! So there are no photographs accompanying the story, just text. Use your imagination.)
The Good Earth Food and Wine Co.
This past Sunday’s afternoon cooking class was at one of my favorite wineries, The Good Earth Food and Wine Co. It’s in the town of Beamsville, near Lake Ontario, and in a part of Canada known as the “Niagara Peninsula.”
We had been there twice before, once for lunch and the second time for their harvest dinner. Andrew Thorne, the executive chef of the Good Earth Food and Wine Co., was the instructor that afternoon and I will admit the reason I even signed up for this class was to spend an afternoon with him and watch him cook. Andrew is not only an extremely talented chef but a joy to talk to.
Luckily, this class turned out to be vastly different from my experience 11 years ago on Long Island. This time around there would be no “hands-on” cooking from the guests. Instead, we were given a lovely menu of what Chef Andrew would be preparing that day as well as a list of ingredients he was using in each dish. Chef Andrew was joined in the cooking school “classroom” by winery owner Nicolette Novak. Together, the two of them made our class of 12 feel extremely welcome that day.
We sat on bar stools facing the kitchen area and for the next 2.5 hours watched as Chef Andrew prepared and cooked our four course lunch. Nicolette attended to the details of silverware and dirty plate removal as well as water and wine pouring all served up with some funny anecdotal food stories.
First Course – “Snow Stopper” Menu
Buffalo Shrimp
Now buffalo shrimp aren’t that difficult to make (think chicken wings with hot sauce) but these buffalo shrimp were given a new twist by plating them with a great combo of blended blue cheese and cream cheese. The shrimp, having been coated in a mixture of cornstarch and flour, were put in a deep fryer for a few minutes (three to be exact), then tossed with some hot sauce and butter.
Don’t they look delicious?
Now, I will admit that the dipping sauce looked a bit gray on the plate (because of the blue cheese) but it was absolutely finger-licking good and worked really well with this tasty shrimp starter.
The other great thing about this first course (and the subsequent other courses) was that each of the three savory courses was paired with wines from the winery. And since they are a very small winery (according to Nicolette they produce only around 3,000 cases a year), it’s wine that is both perfect on the palate and wallet-friendly.
Second Course – “Snow Stopper” Menu
New England Style Clam Chowder
I love heavy cream. It probably has to do with living in Munich for 10 years where 75% of nearly every German restaurant I frequented had a dish that included cream or mushrooms or both. There was A LOT of cream in this dish (and the following polenta dish, too) and it was really good.
First, Chef Andrew had par-cooked some Yukon gold potatoes to get a head start for our group. Into a big pan he put in about a pound and a half of thickly sliced chunks of bacon along with an onion, some celery stalks and a couple of cloves of garlic. He spent a good amount of time stirring this concoction then adding some flour and a generous pour of white wine (not icky cooking wine but wine from their winery!) until the mixture looked like this:
Only then did he add some cans of chopped baby clams with their liquid, tossed in the potatoes, added lots more cream and salt and pepper and let the whole thing simmer.
Thing I learned that afternoon: You can in fact make soup without using chicken or beef stock. And if you use canned clams instead of fresh ones, the food police will not show up with a warrant for your arrest!
A bit of red chili pepper was chopped and tossed on top of each serving at the end (along with some chives) which not only gave the dish a splash of color but really kicked up the heat level as well. Should I reveal that the 12 of us ate our bowls of soup in silence? Yes, it was that good.
Third Course – “Snow Stopper” Menu
Lamb Meatballs, Polenta & Rapini, Too
I adore lamb in any form. I’ve grown found of polenta but it has become an “acquired” taste. Most of the polenta I had over the years was either too thick and tasteless or fried and tasteless. One Christmas Eve I even jumped on the polenta bandwagon and made (drum roll please) polenta “stars.” When I look back at that dinner now I think I must have been out of my mind. First I had to make the polenta and then let it cool enough so I could cut out star-shaped polenta’s with a cookie cutter. Then I arranged the polenta “stars” around one of the seven fishes I was cooking for Christmas Eve dinner. If you know how difficult it is timing-wise to cook one fish, imagine cooking seven plus all the side dishes and then making polenta stars, too? After that one Christmas meal I decided polenta wasn’t going to appear on my table anytime soon.
Chef Andrew makes his polenta thick and creamy by whisking the cornmeal into a pot of cream with butter then adding some Parmesan cheese to boot. He paid a lot of attention to the polenta until it became a delicious concoction similar to grits but without any lumps. Here it is already plated.
Meanwhile as he was doing this, he was also checking on the lamb meatballs before putting them in the oven.
He also started to sauté the washed rapini (what we call broccoli rabe in the States). (And in the previous photograph you also see him grating some lemon zest on top of the rapini.)
Thing I learned that afternoon: Put the sauce on top of the meatballs that are in the oven after they have been baking a bit. No need to take the meatballs out of the oven and put them in the sauce that is simmering on the stove. This was such a no-brainer I even feel like an idiot writing about it but truthfully, I never thought of doing it that way.
Finally, the meatballs were done after touching one and “feeling it” he said. But when I questioned Chef Andrew about not “cheating” like I do and cutting a meatball in half, he actually did just that. And it was, of course, perfectly cooked.
Here’s what the final dish looked like: Lamb meatballs simmered in a chunky tomato sauce and plated on top of some delicious polenta with a side of rapini. A generous grating of some Parmesan cheese and a drizzle of demi-glace over the whole dish brought it together.
Finally, in between all this cooking what is Chef Andrew doing? He is making dessert!
Fourth Course – “Snow Stopper” Menu
Chocolate Ganache Tart with Italian Meringue & Cranberry Orange Preserve
Because we were a crowd, he did have to make the ganache ahead of time because they needed to cool. He did, however, show us at the beginning of the class how he had made them and then proceeded to make some cranberry and orange preserves to serve with the tarts.
And then Chef Andrew made the meringue. This meant sugar and water went into a pot on the stove, egg whites needed to be whipped and somewhere in between these ingredients a great deal more heavy cream was added.
Notice how he really is a happy camper? He’s smiling as he’s baking! As my readers know although I can bake, I detest it and by now I would probably be screaming at the mixer. (Even though this mixer is much nicer than the one I have in my kitchen.)
Thing I learned that afternoon: A blow torch and a candy thermometer are things I should have in my kitchen. The candy thermometer will help you measure the temperature of what you’re cooking. And the blow torch will help you extract the delicate chocolate ganache tarts from their steel cells as well as “burn” the finishing touches on the meringue.
Footnote here: since I don’t like making dessert, I will use not having a blow torch as the perfect excuse for not making any dessert that requires one. I will buy a candy thermometer though.
Finally, the tarts were plated but not before a pastry bag for piping was found and perfect little dollops of meringue stood at attention on the luscious chocolate base.
Then when all was said and done, oops, the cranberry orange sauce was forgotten but carefully added on the side of each dish at the last minute. There was a lot more silence from my cooking classmates as we all dug into our absolutely delicious chocolate desserts!
More things I learned that afternoon: Cooking classes are more fun if you are actually not doing the cooking but watching someone cook for you. It’s like being at home but knowing you don’t have to do any of the dishes or have someone ask you to help them – whether it be chopping some parsley or stirring a pot on the stove.
It’s good to have a group of people you can talk to in the class but also more important, for me at least, is that no one was a picky eater. (I hate picky eaters.) The group size (12) was perfect and it was cool to be the only two Americans in the room surrounded by some pretty fun Canadians. (I went out on a limb with that one so I hope the group I was with shares my sentiment.)
Finally, Chef Andrew and Nicolette made Lynn and I feel very welcome and the food and wine were spot-on. Thank you both for being so nice!
P.S. While the menu was labeled as a “snow stopper,” we hit a “mini blizzard” in the Syracuse area on the way home. Luckily we had purchased some bottles of their Big Fork Red before the class. This was a welcome treat when we finally did pull into the driveway about five hours later. (We had to first shovel a bit in order to actually pull the car into the driveway.) And yes, if you don’t hit a blizzard and the line isn’t too long at the border, it really is only a four hour drive.
Wines poured that day: 2018 Betty’s Blend, 2016 Chardonnay, 2016 Big Fork Red.
Contact: goodearthfoodandwine.com if you want to know more about any of their cooking classes, bistro menus and winery hours.
Although we had traveled to Nova Scotia nearly 30 years ago, we had never visited Prince Edward Island. On the itinerary for last summers road trip adventures, it seemed like a logical place to visit since it would save us airfare. And now that we live permanently in upstate New York, it really is easier to travel places that used to take 8+ hours to get to. Particularly when one has to get off the “Isle of Long” first. (Shout out to Larry The Duck on SiriusXM’s First Wave station for getting me through the morning commute and his endearing giggle when he invariably describes Long Island that way.)
My initial impression of PEI was wow! That’s a really really long bridge you have to take to even get to the island. Case in point: The bridge, known as the Confederation Bridge, is the longest bridge in the world crossing ice-covered water. I’m not sure what exactly that means since there was no ice the day we crossed but that’s what a Google search revealed. It’s also really expensive. CA$47.75 to cross a bridge? Granted, it’s only a one-way toll (you pay on the way back) but still!
So once we got off the bridge, we stopped the car and walked around a tourist-filled rest area and then decided to grab a couple of lobster rolls for lunch.
On To Charlottetown
I was a bit disappointed with Charlottetown I have to say. A) It was a lot smaller than I expected and B) There wasn’t really a lot to do there. Yes, we could have gone to see “Anne of Green Gables: The Musical” (just kidding!) since it has been playing annually in Charlottetown since 1965! But since I was already dragging Lynn to see the author’s house the next day, I decided to spare him anything else related to “Anne.” Besides we were already being bombarded by Anne of Green Gables souvenirs and even “‘Anne” chocolates everywhere we looked.
Thing is, I never read Anne of Green Gables growing up. I actually went to my local library this summer before we set out on this adventure, and truth be told, I liked the book and the character. (And knowing how I was as a young teenager girl, I probably would have tossed the book in the garbage because back then I liked reading books by D.H. Lawrence.)
I’m really glad I read the book this past summer since so much of Prince Edward Island is wrapped up in the many stories that author Lucy Montgomery wrote. She managed way back then to create characters that one can emphasize with and the near fairy tale setting of her books on the island only adds to their appeal.
So our first morning in PEI we went to visit the very modest family house where she was born and where she eventually married, too.
Followed by a further drive down the road to see a “heritage place” museum that showcased many of her books and the inspiration for writing them.
Driving between these two places, we would catch glimpses of the water and marvel at the beauty of the countryside. I also didn’t know there were so many farms on Prince Edward Island. Or that their primary crop was potatoes. And why was the soil so incredibly red?
It turns out there’s a lot of iron in this soil and although it looked like “sand” similar to what we had seen in the deep red stones of Sedona, Arizona, this soil was lush and fertile. I stopped more than once to pull over to try and capture the deep color of the earth but the camera just didn’t do it justice.
We continued to drive a bit around the island when suddenly I saw a sign for “Malpeque.” Could it be the same Malpeque that was famous for its oysters? We journeyed on to find out.
Even though it was not even noon, we decided to have an early “snack” of some just-harvested Malpeque oysters, “from the source,” so to speak at the Malpeque Oyster Barn. Now that I’ve had the “real thing,” it’s very difficult to order fresh oysters anywhere else and expect them to be even passable.
Fresh and only slightly briny, they needed just a simple squeeze of lemon as shown here although the Migonette sauce and fresh horseradish were a nice touch, too.
Afterwards we walked around the dock area and looked at all the oyster/lobster traps so artfully displayed.
And then we went to find a lighthouse nearly an hour and a half away on the other side of the island.
Point Prim Lighthouse
When we drove down a sandy beach road looking for the Point Prim Lighthouse, we didn’t expect to find a long line of cars parked on the side of the road. We realized the real reason people were there was to eat at the Point Prim Chowder House.
Even though we didn’t have a reservation, they found a table outside for us. I have to say the view was delicious! The food was decent. And the mosquitoes! Boy, they loved my ankles that day!
So back to the view.
With these pretty white curtains (that they tried to tie back since they had a tendency to billow in the wind), I felt I was in a fancy Caribbean resort rather than PEI.
We had a bowl of chowder and two lobster rolls but genuinely had a hard time thinking who was enjoying their “feast” more – Lynn and I or the mosquitoes nibbling on us.
We ate quickly and then made our way over to the lighthouse where (drum roll) we were one of only two visitors.
After lunch, we decided a visit to the beach (and being able to dig our toes into that incredible red sand) would be just the thing to do.
We had packed bathing suits and borrowed some towels from the hotel (but boy do I hate changing in a toilet stall!) and then indulged in a beautiful afternoon at Brackley Beach.
They have dunes! They have crystal clear water! They have soft red sand! Really, it was very relaxing.
Dinner both nights in Charlottetown was pretty uninspiring but I have to assume that’s because the town was filled with tourists looking for a cheap hamburger and a beer. We did have some fantastic chowder at Brickhouse Kitchen and Bar. Loaded with fresh seafood (at least four different kinds from what I could tell) plus potatoes and cream, it was really good! I went back to check their website, pulled up their menu and this chowder is actually a winner! Named the 2018 PEI Potato and Shellfish Chowder Champion, this one dish has lobster, haddock, scallops, mussels, smoked bacon and PEI potatoes.
Don’t you just want to dive into that dish? I do!
PEI Potatoes and Charlottetown’s Farmer’s Market
Speaking of PEI potatoes, well here we go. Okay, so as I mentioned before, I was trespassing on farmland trying to take pictures of the soil and the abundance of potato plants when I thought well, I have to buy some. Luckily, we were in town for the weekend and Saturday mornings is where all the action is at the Charlottetown’s Farmers’ market. Unfortunately, we had already eaten a (mediocre) breakfast at the hotel, but we walked around the stalls and marveled at all the goodness that was being displayed.
Potatoes right from the earth!
Lettuce and scallions and squash, too!
Wait, are those just-picked Shiitakes?
And lots of different varieties of fresh baked bread?
Are you hungry yet? Because I am!
Needless to say, only three things would bring me back to PEI. The oysters, the farmer’s market and the beach!
Oh yeah, on the way home, guess what I bought?
Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.
Visiting Campobello Island to see Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt’s summer “cottage” (it has 34 rooms!) had been on my do-list for a while. I love visiting old houses and am fascinated by stories of how people lived during the 1930’s and 1940’s. This probably has something to do with growing up in Munich and being constantly surrounded by reminders of World War II. But first we needed a place to stay.
So, after we had visited PEI, we drove to Saint Andrews (also referred to as Saint Andrews By-The-Sea) which is a very romantic sounding name for this town in an area called the Maritime Provinces of Canada.
We were to stay one night at Rossmount Inn, a hotel I had read about that had travelers raving about the on-site restaurant. But first we decided to pay a visit to Kingsbrae Gardens. If you are interested in garden design and flowers and plants like I am, this is a must-see stop. Set on over 25+ acres in a residential area of Saint Andrews, they not only have lovely flower gardens but an interesting sculpture garden and miniature exotic pet farm, too.
To give you an idea of how much they love gardens (and gardening!) this was the first thing I saw walking onto their beautiful estate.
We walked around the gardens admiring all the flowers and the neatly trimmed hedges.
Plus they even made rows and rows of daylilies and assorted other wildflowers look civilized.
And then we saw the peacock! I mean, I had seen a peacock spread its feathers before but this bird decided it was going to give us a little fashion show. Look how it spread its feathers and strutted a bit so we could see both the front and back of this gorgeous bird – a member of the pheasant family I believe.
I actually thought the back of this beautiful beast was even more interesting than the front.
After more sculpture (see the food theme prevalent here with an apple core and an avocado), we went to the hotel.
A Night at the Rossmount
Chef Chris Aerni and his lovely wife Graziella are probably one of the nicest couples we’ve encountered on our many travels here and abroad. They are totally hands on with this lovely retreat they have created and love to talk to their guests not only about food but places they, too, have visited. (I’m now very curious about Hobart, Tasmania, because of my conversation with them that night.)
This is a shot of their hotel and the lovely pool area. Unfortunately, it was too late in the day for us to hang out by the pool, but this hotel is definitely on my “return for a visit list” so we’ll have to check it out the next time we go.
Dinner that night was exceptional. A multi-course tasting menu featured fresh Malpeque oysters (I will talk more about these beauties in an upcoming Prince Edward Island story) paired with a scallop ceviche.
Mushroom soup and bib lettuce and beets from the garden topped with edible daylilies (who knew you could eat those).
Followed by a roasted quail and potato salad. And then old school surf and turf kicked up a notch with succulent butter-poached lobster with garden fresh veggies and a killer Bearnaise sauce. The dollops of green pesto that were added to this dish just brought the whole thing together. It was tasty and absolutely brilliant!
And then there was dessert. Pea semi-freddo? You betcha. And it was delicious – sweet and savory all in the same bite. But then since it was my birthday (really, the actual day not the day before or after), I asked if they could bring me out something chocolate. And that’s exactly what they did. (I know it was so unlike me to order a second dessert, but I split the chocolate mousse with Lynn.)
On To Campobello Island
We started off the morning (after a lovely breakfast at the Rossmount) by listening to “Siri” tell us how we should “drive” to Campobello Island. Usually I at least take a glimpse at an old road map to make sure she’s heading us in the correct direction, but this time I didn’t. That’s why about an hour later we ended up somewhere along the coast near Passamaquoddy Bay (yes, that is exactly how you spell it). We were in the town of L’Etete and saw signs for a ferry that we thought was going to Campobello. Since there was no reason not to trust “Siri,” we drove the car onto the ferry. Who knew the ferry was free, too? (Thank you Canada!)
When the ferry docked, we realized we were on another island, “Deer Island” to be precise. There’s got to be a bridge, I thought that would get us over to Campobello, right? There is a bridge, but not where we were! We also discovered that we needed to take another ferry and had just missed the one that would eventually take us over to Campobello. See there it is pulling away!
So we joined a growing line of cars and waited for the next boat. Since we were basically stuck on Deer Island, it’s not like we could turn around and go back. Nearly an hour and a half later (not the hour intervals as shown below), we drove the car onto ferry #2 and finally ended up where we wanted to be. And this time we had to pay about $27.00 for the crossing.
The Roosevelts
Once we finally got to Campobello we managed to finagle our way onto a tour of the house that had just started. I was impressed with the home and simple furnishings and the great lengths the Roosevelts took to spend summers there! (If it took us that long to get there from our morning start which was a mere 117 kilometers away, imagine what it was like for them to get to their summer home from New York or even Washington in the 1920’s via train and automobile!)
And since I love to cook and eat (as you all know), I particularly focused in on the kitchen. The stove Eleanor’s staff would cook meals on was still in the house. This is a thing of beauty. And looking at it, it actually has more burners and “counter space” than my current stove.
I also loved the bullhorn that was out on display. Apparently, Eleanor used it to call the children in for meals when they were out and about.
And with a view like this from the house, who wouldn’t want to be outdoors every single second of the day?
Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.
It was nearly 29 years ago when we first traveled from Long Island to Maine and New Brunswick with our then 1-year-old son strapped in a car seat in the smallest car I think Chevrolet ever made (the Sprint). It was actually so small (I’m pretty tall and Lynn is too) that we even nicknamed the Sprint “Sprint Junior” just to make fun of its tiny size.
This time we started out from upstate New York (already saving us probably at least 3 hours) avoiding that awful stretch of I-95 going through Connecticut. Our first stop was in Essex, MA, for amazing lobster rolls at an old school joint called Essex Seafood. I mean look at this handwritten menu tacked onto the wall!
The lobster was sweet, minimally dressed and the side order of onion rings were pretty decent, too. I’d also like to personally thank many of my Instagram foodies who shared that find with me!
Overnight in Portland, Maine
We hadn’t been to Portland in at least 20 years and frankly, we didn’t remember a single thing. We walked around near the harbor area but weren’t that impressed.
There were a couple of restaurants and bars and the usual coffee places but there seemed to be an overwhelming number of tourist places all selling the same trinkets. Actually anything that had a lobster on it seemed to be a guaranteed sale. Lobster key rings? Check. Lobster potholders? Double check.
Dinner that night was at Fore Street – a restaurant that didn’t disappoint in its open kitchen concept as well as the incredible wood-burning smell of everything they were cooking.
The menu was very creative. Squid with eggplant and green beans followed by grilled foie gras on a slice of homemade zucchini bread! Who does that?
Second course up: Fresh blue fin tuna with peppers and grilled corn. A tasty dish but a small portion I thought for the price tag. (Yes, look at it, it was about 2 .5 bites!)
Finally, Lynn and I split a fresh berry cobbler topped with a biscuit-like dough (not my favorite but more on biscuits later) and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Doesn’t that look absolutely delicious though?
On the way out, stopping to say “thanks” to the chefs working the line in the open kitchen, I was told by a not-so-friendly wait staffer that I was “not allowed” to be there or to talk to them! What? Cooking is a thankless job but I made sure the chefs working that night heard me compliment them on their exceptional talent. And at least I got a smile out of a few of them.
Before we left Portland the next morning, we stopped to see the lighthouse. Apparently, we had missed it the first time and the weather was absolutely perfect to get a great photograph!
On To Saint John, New Brunswick
We stopped for lunch outside of Bangor, Maine, and started with a seafood “chowdah” brimming with haddock, clams, shrimp and lobster. I moved on to eat a lobster BLT with avocado and Lynn held out for a traditional lobster roll. It was pretty darn good.
We had never been to Saint John and stayed at a hotel on the rather ugly waterfront. (This apparently is turning out to be a theme on this road trip.) Here, however, at least someone had attempted to create some “artwork” along the way. I particularly liked the random fish sculptures that were scattered around the downtown area.
We walked into a park, King’s Square, and found what appeared to be a Victorian-era band stand. Although when I looked at it, it kind of reminded me of a squat version of the Chinese Tower (Chinesischer Turm) in Munich’s Englischer Garten.
I have to segue just a bit. I really wanted to find a picture of Munich’s Chinese Tower and post it here but I realized that all the pictures I probably took of it were WAY BEFORE THE CLOUD! What? And yeah, I could drag out an old CD, pop it into my laptop and then spend hours looking for that one photograph. Or, I could just walk downstairs and find the one photo album I needed and just take a picture of the darn thing.
So here it is: My own photograph of the Chinesischer Turm in Munich, Germany, shot in the winter of 1979. Pretty cool right? And if you just look at the top two “towers,” you may see the same resemblance I did. And yeah, it took me a mere 3 minutes to walk down the stairs, find the photo album, flip open the page, shoot the picture, walk back upstairs and upload the shot.
Dinner At East Coast Bistro
When I tell you we had some of the best mussels EVER for dinner that night at East Coast Bistro, I’m not exaggerating. First of all, these mussels were from the Bay of Fundy which is the closest body of water to the town of Saint John and hence the restaurant. Spiced up with an intensely flavored coconut hot sauce with leeks on top, I’m still tasting (and dreaming) about this dish today. Second course I had was a fresh halibut with asparagus, pickled onions and arugula on top.
Yummy! Finally, since I had mentioned it was my birthday week – look what they brought out for me! Lovely homemade vanilla ice cream with a lemon tart topped with meringue. Also, I got to meet Chef Kim Steele and crew which was a nice treat.
Breakfast? What Breakfast?
One of my pet peeves of traveling these days is not being able to find a decent breakfast in the morning without A) driving out of our way and B) paying way too much money. I’m also not a fan of hotel buffets (unless it’s a really decent hotel). Or standing in line to scoop lukewarm scrambled eggs out of a chafing dish and then stand in another line to toast store-bought muffins.
I also like my breakfasts to be pretty simple. Eggs are a must but I don’t particularly like sausage for breakfast. But I’m okay with bacon but only one slice! And yes, I, too, fell for the avocado on toast thing. But then I stopped eating bread at breakfast for a while and I wasn’t crazy about just eating a “naked” avocado.
Hash browns or any kind of potato actually are also a definite no-no. You’re probably thinking, wow, it seems she doesn’t even like breakfast at all! But I do, I do, it just needs to be really simple and preferably served with a little bit of fresh fruit. (But only certain fruit.) Okay, I know I’m more than a little particular about my breakfasts.
I also won’t go into how I would prefer a croissant over a biscuit any day because my Dad, Larry, is one of my best blog readers and after he reads this he will probably be sending me hourly recipes for biscuits! (Love you Dad!) If you haven’t checked out any of his books, he is a funny writer and his books make great gifts, too. Side note: he LOVES biscuits and pie!
I also won’t go into my love/hate relationship with bagels. Well, okay, if you insist. I only like plain ones (and prefer mini bagels over full-sized ones) and also only buy bagels from certain stores. Recently Lynn and I decided pizza for breakfast would be a good idea but then wimped out at the last minute and got Italian pastries and cappuccino’s instead. (This photograph was from a recent trip to Montreal.)
Consequently, the next morning in our search for a bite to eat – a coffee, a donut, a bagel, a something, we walked around downtown Saint John and came up with zilch. We ended up back at the hotel, walked into the dining room and looked at a room filled with people who were drinking coffee. My breakfast “radar” went up. I realized no one had a plate in front of them which meant they had been waiting for their breakfasts a really, really long time.
I decided to be brave, ordered a simple omelette with toast and coffee and then we proceeded to wait. We got lucky. Apparently, the chefs working the line that morning cook everything at once since everyone’s food came out at the same time. So even though we were the last ones in that morning, our food came out as well. Timing is everything.
Since I didn’t take a picture of the omelette or my lousy coffee, I will leave you with some photos of some truly great breakfasts! (Regardless of my rantings above, I really do love breakfast!)
The best omelette you will ever eat. Courtesy of Les Deux Magots in Paris.
The best scones you will ever eat. Courtesy of The Langham Hotel in London. (Note: we did NOT stay there because it was outrageously expensive but went once for Easter brunch.)
The best farmer’s market to enjoy some pastries (and breakfast). Courtesy of the Byward Market in Ottawa.
I mean, even riding the Eurostar between London and Paris we had a decent croissant!
Finally, my new commuting life allows me not only to photograph my sucky”breakfast” at my desk but also share it with my husband, Lynn and my readers. If you’re wondering what it is – here’s more than a clue: Pepperidge Farm white bread, a slice of Munster cheese (or if I’m feeling really adventurous Havarti), a smear of butter laced with olive oil and either green or red grapes. Followed by weak office coffee. Awesome, right?
Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.
Note to readers: This is a trip we did late last spring while we were still living on Long Island and before we moved permanently up to the Mohawk Valley.
Since Lynn and I lived on Long Island for nearly 30 years (we moved from Greenpoint, Brooklyn, when our son Nicholas was a year old), we have successfully navigated many roads and bridges to get to where we want to go. Usually the Whitestone and the Tappan Zee* bridges when driving north and the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge followed by the NJ Turnpike when going south. I am proud to say that we have never, ever, had to take the George Washington Bridge anywhere and luckily for this trip to Bethlehem, we managed not to be on that dreaded bridge as well.
*Disclaimer here: I, as do many “real” (and older) New Yorkers, call most of the buildings (and bridges) by their “original” names. For example, it’s not the MetLife building but the Pan Am Building. And, it’s not the RFK Bridge but the Triboro Bridge. And please do not make me say the Governor Mario M. Cuomo Bridge – it’s the Tappan Zee!
Name issues out of the way, after leaving Long Island two and a half hours later we wound up in the town of Bethlehem, a town we had actually never visited.
Time For Lunch – Social Still
Set in an industrial area near the famous Bethlehem SteelStacks, this fun distillery located in an old bank building makes a great burger! While I was eager to try some of what they were distilling that day (vodka, gin, whiskey), I was driving so settled for a beer.
A quick segue here. I’m not a fan of craft beers. Having lived in Munich for 10 years and being allowed legally to drink at the age of 16(!), I’m a snob of what good beer should taste like. That said, I will try craft beers that are Pilsner or lager-like but stay far away from anything that has “floral” or “fruit” overtones. I also like the fact that many craft beers these days list their percentage of alcohol.
From our bar seats at Social Still we had a nice view of the old bank vault where they seemed to store what they had brewed in barrels. I think this shot of the old bank vault door is really cool, too.
Bethlehem SteelStacks
After lunch, a quick drive down the block landed us in the middle of Bethlehem SteelStacks. I’m impressed they chose to retain the space, making some of it into a concert venue, but also giving us the ability to walk around outside of what’s left of the old steel factory. We read about all the people (mostly men) who worked there – often generation after generation. I learned a lot. Particularly that in the early 1900’s the factory actively recruited for workers abroad (wow, things have certainly changed since then) by placing ads in many German, Irish and Hungarian newspapers.
I also liked the fact we could get up really close to all the old furnaces and machines that used to make steel as we walked along the Hoover-Mason Trestle. (The walkway reminded me a bit of the High Line in NYC without all the tourists. )
My maternal grandfather worked for Standard Oil in Whiting, Indiana, most of his life and I took a moment to think of him and all the other men who worked in not-so-good conditions to make a living.
After the SteelStacks, we went into the town of Bethlehem proper, walking around and visiting the “Colonial Industrial Quarter” and also speaking to a costumed guide working at the blacksmith shop. He was a retired steel worker who spent his days talking to a few school groups, the odd tourist (namely us) and anyone else who wanted to learn about colonial PA.
Dinner at Bolete
One of the main reasons we were in Bethlehem was to have dinner at Bolete. On my “bucket list” for many years, this trip was the perfect opportunity to pay them a visit. Chef Lee Chizmar and crew didn’t disappoint. On the menu that night for starters: asparagus salad with a soft runny duck egg and braised beef dumplings. Seconds: soft shell crab with some greens (and more asparagus). For dessert? We split a carrot cake parfait!
And if you are wondering what the word “Bolete” means…here’s a clue:
Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.
We did a spur of the moment trip earlier this summer to the Niagara-on-the-Lake area with trips to Hamilton and St. Catherine thrown in. We had been to the area a few times before but now there are even more places to eat (and drink) so we like to go back as frequently as possible. The fact that many of the Niagara escarpment wineries remind me a little bit of the California wineries we used to visit in the early 1990’s also helps. I also love to drive around the area to see not only what the farmers are growing but what dishes the chefs are creating with all this bounty before them.
We made it over the border crossing in about 40 minutes (yeah!) and found ourselves at the amazing winery/restaurant of Two Sisters Vineyard. The problem with eating “across the border” is that it is difficult to make a lunch reservation because you never know how long the wait will be to get across! Luckily, even though the restaurant was packed, they managed to find a table for us.
We didn’t waste any time when ordering. Glasses of wine. A wood-burning stove that spit out pizzas (ours was covered with arugula and prosciutto) followed by a pasta Bolognese dish even though it was hotter than hell that day. For those who missed my last story mentioning the “Beef Strogonoff” that Lynn consumed (again on a really hot day), well, all I can say is “Bon Appetit!”
Dare I mention they brought us out the largest bowl of grated cheese I’ve ever seen? I mean it was the size of a casserole dish! Look, our server is even showing off by holding it in one hand! (Actually I asked her to hold it that way so I could take the photograph.)
After lunch we drove around the area and to kill some time before our next meal, we went to a winery, Tawse, in Vineland, Ontario, we had missed the last time around. But first, we drove down a street called Cherry Avenue. What did we find on Cherry Avenue? You betcha!
To say I was excited about seeing cherries for the first time in person, in all their cherry goodness, is beyond words.
Dinner at Quatrefoil
This had been on my list of restaurants to go to for quite some time. Housed in a lovely house in the town of Dundas, Ontario, on Thursday nights they do a 3 course prix fixe “Farmer’s Supper.” So it being Thursday, that’s what we had. For starters, I had the white asparagus vinaigrette. Now this may not seem like a special dish, after all it’s just asparagus, right? But since I grew up in Munich, we waited anxiously every year for the asparagus season to start (usually the end of April/beginning of May). White asparagus was always preferred to the green kind and once the asparagus came out it was sold in farmer’s markets and was a featured dish in nearly every restaurant. To say it was a big deal is an understatement. Now, however, when I see white asparagus in the market, it just doesn’t taste the way I remember. This asparagus with a perfect vinaigrette absolutely hit the spot though.
Next up a perfectly cooked moist piece of salmon. Now, I realize I shouldn’t be that excited about salmon, right? Trust me this was exquisite. Do I dare mention that Lynn had beef (a steak) again? And no, I’m not posting a picture of his steak. Absolutely not.
A few days prior, I had seen on Instagram that the chef de cuisine of Quatrefoil, James Bourdeau, had “acquired” lots of different fresh berries from a local farm. “Where were the berries?” I asked our server. He wasn’t sure but he would find out. Imagine my surprise (and laughter) when a plate of berries was brought out for me to try.
And then Chef Bourdeau came out to talk to us! How cool is that? Thank you Chef!
Dessert included a deconstructed chocolate cake and mousse combo with fresh mint leaves and a lovely rhubarb creme brulee (not shown here since the shot came out blurry – probably from all the excitement.) I mean fresh picked berries and white asparagus in the same meal? I thought the food was amazing, the plating stellar and the service was outstanding.
Craving Indian…Still Craving Indian
Lunch that day was a choice of Thai or Indian in St. Catherines. We chose the Indian since 1. We love Indian. 2. We can’t find decent Indian near us. 3. We hadn’t had naan or curry in a long time.
It’s always disappointing to crave ethnic food and then not have them deliver what you’re craving. While the chicken tikka masala was okay, the naan and poori breads were just not as light and fluffy as they could have been. We sucked it up and decided Thai might have been a better choice that afternoon.
Creekside Estate Winery for Dinner
We had been to Creekside Estate Winery the year before and liked their varietals very much. They pour a strong Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah, too. A chef I had been following on Instagram, Ross Midgley, was cooking that summer on the deck at this winery so of course we wanted to visit.
Friday nights at the Creekside they have a limited menu but live music. Dare I mention it was really hot that Friday night – so hot we were sweltering and of course there wasn’t even a gust of wind in sight. We sat and drank lots of cold white wine to cool off. And then ordered some pretty outstanding food.
We started with a plate of oysters! Yeah, I love oysters! Then moved on to the Mediterranean platter (grilled halloumi, pita, olives and red peppers). Look at those cute little French jam jars – one filled with hummus and the other with Greek yogurt. And finally, the lobster roll was pretty decent, too. Thank you Chef!
We also got a chance to talk to Chef Midgley which was a special treat since he only had one other person helping him in the minimalist deck “kitchen” (fridge/work counter/grill) that evening.
Waterfalls, Waterfalls
Before we left to drive home, we decided to visit a couple of waterfalls in the area. Now since we have a waterfall in our backyard (albeit one you have to hike to), we shouldn’t have been as excited about seeing these. But they were pretty and we basically had the place to ourselves. I’ll leave you with two photographs…
Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.