I’m not referring to the house number. Or, when Frank Lloyd Wright designed it. I’m referring to the fact that the Pope-Leighey house in Alexandria, Virginia, was the 17th Frank Lloyd Wright property we’ve visited since we started this FLW adventure quite a few years ago.
We arrived early enough to visit the neighboring Woodlawn House first and read up a bit about how instrumental Marjorie Leighey was in saving this house from being demolished. Back in the early 1960’s, Robert and Marjorie Leighey learned that their Frank Lloyd Wright home was to be seized through eminent domain since the state of Virginia wanted to build an Interstate right through their property. Kind of inconvenient don’t you think? Luckily, Marjorie Leighey didn’t think that should happen, not so much because she lived there (and obviously would have to move), but because they weren’t just talking about any old ranch house that could simply be torn down or moved. They were talking about a Frank Lloyd Wright designed house! Miss Marjorie decided to meet with preservationists and reporters and wage an all-out letter writing campaign to bring awareness to this dire situtation. Because of this tenacity, her actions inspired the Historic Preservation Act of 1966. While the house was eventually moved, this very important piece of legislature created the National Register of Historic Places, a list of National Historic Landmarks, as well as State Historic Preservation Offices. It would also be the catalyst that would save other historic buildings around the country. Good job Marjorie!
A Small House
This house was by far the smallest FLW structure we’ve ever seen. It had some of the built-in furniture we were used to, but the house seemed more museum-like than others. Here are a few photographs of the living room and a very small bedroom that two of the Leighey boys shared at the time.
Like other Frank Lloyd Wright structures, there were a lot of cut outs that he used to bring in natural light to the space. Perhaps because there wasn’t a lot of money spent by the first family (the Pope’s who built the house; the Leighey’s were the second owners), it seemed less embellished than other FLW properties we’ve seen. Still, the house is functional except for the kitchen.
I mean, really Frank.
Harpers Ferry, West Virginia
After seeing #17, we drove to Harpers Ferry. I had missed the part about it being a recreated, touristy town with a bunch of old buildings and John Brown’s Fort. For some reason, I thought it would be more like Gettysburg, with a big national park you can walk around in or even drive through. It was a Sunday and very warm so there were lots of people walking through the town. There was also NO PARKING, so we drove out of what Lynn called “Colonial Williamsburg 2.0” and went in search of lunch. Luckily, I had researched other places to eat away from the madness in town, which is how we ended up at Snallygasters Cafe & Wine Bar. Luckily, it was in a residential neighborhood with lots of parking right out front, and not only a lovely cafe menu, but a fun wine list and even a small wine store in the back.
Our server, a Columbia grad who volunteered that she had lived in Harlem for many years, told us how she loved living in Harpers Ferry. The reason she volunteered this response was I had asked her a simple question – “What’s it like living here?” Apparently, she was happy to be back home after growing up here.
Lynn and I shared a cheese plate, then we dug into some really good lamb meatballs with a salad. We had some wine and contemplated dessert but decided to just keep moving. We still had some driving to do with a stop to see an architect-designed museum before we checked into our hotel.
The Museum of the Shenandoah Valley
Truthfully, the only reason we stopped was to see the building. Designed by Michael Graves in 2005, it focused on the history of the Shenandoah Valley. The building itself I thought was less inspiring (it looked like a chain hotel). But the museum was having a Frida Kahlo exhibition, so it wasn’t a total waste of time.
I mean, doesn’t this look like a hotel/resort you might have stayed in? Somewhere? Off of an Interstate? I thought so.
Our day of sightseeing was finished, and we were on our way to an Inn. A really, really fancy Inn.
I have to admit; I was a bit skeptical about a bookstore that did an all-day breakfast too. Was it just going to be like the cafe at Barnes & Nobles with overpriced coffee and muffins? Absolutely not. Kramer’s serves up delicious bagel sandwiches, funky omelets, and has a full bar regardless of what time of day you want a drink. The place was pretty crowded but after we had a really good breakfast, I was happy to see that the bookstore was even more crowded than the restaurant. And people were actually buying books, not just standing there reading them like it was a library! I, too, had to indulge and walked away with four novels (mostly food-related) that I knew purchasing there would be better than throwing more money at Amazon.
Monuments and Then Some
After breakfast and dropping the book(s) back at the hotel, we got back on the metro and got off somewhere near the Smithsonian. Then we walked. First to see the Jefferson Memorial where we convinced yet another tourist to take a picture of us. I had to direct her a couple of times until she got the shot I wanted (sorry!), but eventually, she got it right. Hint: you want to show all the columns at a certain angle, not just ONE column.
After seeing Jefferson and “oohing and aahing” over the beautiful ceiling, we headed over to see Franklin, Eleanor, and MLK Jr. I’m not sure how we had missed these monuments in the past, but we did.
Unlike the Eisenhower Memorial we saw yesterday, at least Eleanor and Franklin had a water feature going. And I loved the different sculptures they had made of Franklin, too. Especially the smaller one where he is in a wheelchair. (I also rewatched Atlantic Crossing recently on Netflix with Kyle MacLachlan and Sofia Helin so I was intrigued by these sculptures.)
After a short walk around Potomac Park, we found the Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial. Facing the Tidal Basin and described by the National Park Service as the “Stone of Hope,” I thought this 30-foot statue of Dr. King was really powerful.
Oysters on The Wharf
We had tickets to get into the Library of Congress later that afternoon but decided to check out The Wharf area and maybe get some oysters for lunch. I had a feeling that The Wharf would be similar to The Seaport in NYC and I was pretty accurate. There were lots of shops, bars, and restaurants. There were also a lot of people walking around. But then I realized it was probably because it was a nice day and you could easily grab something to eat or drink with a view of the water. I’ve also come to accept that many people don’t really like doing the touristy stuff in D.C. anyway, so this is probably where they ended up instead. (Or, maybe they just actually live here?)
We stopped at Rappahannock Oyster Bar (obviously to eat some oysters), but we also decided to split a shrimp and fried oyster Po’ Boy sandwich. While the sandwich had the potential to be good with all the fresh fish around us, unfortunately, it was dry. I think they just forget to put the rémoulade sauce on. Still, look at these amazing oysters!
The Library of Congress
Even with tickets we waited in a very long line. In the sun. I didn’t realize this place was so popular! But once inside, how had I missed knowing that the building was so ornate? And gorgeous! Obviously, I deserve an “F” for not doing any research on the building before we visited, so we had quite a bit to look at. You can’t get into the main reading room without a special ID card, but we climbed the stairs and got a view of the reading room behind a glass partition.
The ceiling, all the artwork, columns, staircases, and paintings were just amazing. Less amazing were the over-anxious security guards who were constantly yelling at the visitors not to stand and taking selfies on the stairs. I got it, but a lot of people didn’t. Afterwards, we walked over to the Capital. Then we made our way over to visit the Folger Shakespeare Library.
Another Library – Shakespeare
Unfortunately, the one room I wanted to see (the wood-paneled library) was not open that day because there was some sort of musical rehearsal going on in the space. See the books behind the glass? We did briefly walk through the exhibit on Shakespeare (not my favorite author by the way) and decided to just sit in the big room next to the library where everyone else seemed to have congregated as well. Since they had a cafe and it was the afternoon, I thought a European type of break would be appropriate. Well, we didn’t have coffee, but we did have some wine and then we shared a messy, but delicious, strawberry and rhubarb tart. And then we just sat for a while looking at the decorative plaster ceiling. It was quite lovely actually. And I’m really glad that we got to see everything that was on our agenda that day. We still had dinner to look forward to, and tomorrow we’re up early, leaving D.C., and heading to Virginia.
We weren’t originally going to go to D.C., or travel anywhere at all, but it was a milestone birthday for Lynn (which you simply can’t ignore) and our anniversary, too. (He claims you can, but I have to make exceptions.) Originally, I had planned a trip back to Nova Scotia. We hadn’t been to Halifax in 36 years, and I really like visiting Canada. What I wasn’t too keen about was the amount of driving (nearly 14 hours!) that it would take each way. Plus, I suddenly found myself employed again (albeit part-time) after not being so in over three years and I didn’t want to suddenly disappear for a couple of weeks. Hence a five-day road trip to D.C.
Last time we were there was 2019. Obviously, much has changed. We had been reading about how D.C. isn’t a cool place to go these days. The National Guard had been deployed, crime was on the uptick, and generally there seemed to be pervasive uneasiness about being there. In the three days we were in D.C., we saw less than a dozen guardsmen/women (most stationed around the Metro stops) and didn’t find walking around the capital unpleasant at all.
Our trip this time was to see sites we hadn’t seen before which we didn’t think was even possible. But new memorials have been built, museums opened, and there were some things we had simply missed. This time, we learned how to use the Metro since we were staying up near Dupont Circle and didn’t want to waste time walking long distances. We’ve traveled on quite a few metro lines in big cities, but I have to say that I think D.C.’s is not only the cleanest, but architecturally the most interesting. I mean look at this roof!
We had a bit of a snag driving into D.C., since suddenly our GPS went out and even though we had a general idea of where the hotel was, we couldn’t quite get there. Fun fact: even if we had a map (you know as in a paper map that you unfold), I still think we might have had an issue. We found the hotel, we checked in, we waited for our car to be parked and then Lynn proceeded to kill all the bugs that he found on the hotel room balcony. (He wouldn’t do well visiting a warm-weather, bug-infested locale.) It’s okay to laugh, it was pretty amusing.
We also went on the search for an ice machine. Asking the person manning the front desk elicited a shrug, followed by a description of it being in a cabinet. By the elevator. We found the cabinet and opened one door where we found something that looked like someone had taken the door off a dishwasher. There were a bunch of wires, tubes and something that looked like a filter. This turned out to be a fancy water system that gave you both spring and sparkling water. Important, I guess, if you were waiting for the elevator and needed something bubbly. But still, no clue as to where the ice machine was located. We closed the door and decided to just have a cocktail at the restaurant instead.
Ceviche for Dinner
Ever have Peruvian food? We haven’t. Apparently, it’s very popular, since there were no less than six restaurants in the area, but I chose the one closest to the hotel. Pisco y Nazca Ceviche Gastrobar was a lot of fun. It was also very loud. Luckily, we focused our attention on the food rather than trying to have a conversation with each other. I love fish but have to confess I haven’t had many opportunities to eat ceviche! Well, Pisco’s was exceptional. The yam was especially tasty and the shrimp and scallops in the dish were delicious. We also had croquettes (filled with shredded chicken and potato), cubes of steak, and grilled octopus that looked lovely but was a tad too chewy.
The National Museum of African American History and Culture
Designer David Adjaye and head architect Philip Freelon won a design competition in 2009 for this museum. The last time we had visited D.C., we didn’t have time to go inside. This time, I booked tickets weeks ahead of our visit since I know it’s a popular museum. Still, we had time to kill that morning, which meant Lynn and I got to walk around the National Mall for a bit. It was a gorgeous blue-sky day, so I was able to take a lot of pictures. And even bothered another tourist to take a photograph of us!
But then finally we went into the museum. If you visit, plan on spending a lot of time there. We were there for almost three hours, and we could have easily stayed another two. Photography is not allowed in the exhibits, but I did take some cool pictures of the staircase and the latticework which looks like lace that surrounds the building.
Jaleo
After the museum, we walked down to Jaleo and had a late lunch. We hadn’t been there in years, but respect José Andrés’ work for World Central Kitchen. Plus, who else is still doing four-course lunches for $28? I can’t think of anyone.
Dwight D.
After lunch, we headed over to see the Eisenhower Memorial since the last time we were here it was being built. Hmmm, well, totally underwhelming and actually boring. Since Frank Gehry was the “starchitect” associated with this project, I was surprised. But now I also understand why this project took so long to get off the ground – 20 plus years! Apparently, there was a lot of kick back from the family over the design and I understand why. I wouldn’t have approved this lame concept either. (There are other elements to this memorial but I’m just posting this one photograph.)
Le Diplomate for Dinner
From our hotel near Dupont Circle, we walked up to Le Diplomate. We had been to the restaurant before and even then, it was crowded. Tonight, the decibel level was off the charts. (Two nights in a row, I thought, of noise? What’s going on here?) We also got the smallest, shittiest table by the door. It was so loud that we just looked at each other and unfortunately, had to listen to the people next to us practically yell at each other in order to speak. They seemed to think this was a perfectly acceptable way to talk to each other, but by the end of the evening I had a headache.
We hadn’t had an issue with service before at this restaurant, and though our waiter was friendly, I think the entire staff was just overwhelmed with the crowd. Case in point: we already had our appetizers (escargots and a salmon tartare) before we were served cocktails. Our wine was also brought out to us after the appetizers but still no cocktails! Sigh. By the time our veal scallops (which were really good) with a mushroom sauce was brought to us, all had been corrected. But still, it’s expensive to eat out these days and when you’re paying that much money, it really does have to be a nearly flawless experience!
I’ll leave you with this: some pretty darn good profiteroles.
Stopping overnight in the Catskills to break up a long drive to D.C. wasn’t originally planned, but sometimes all I need is to find one restaurant that sparks my curiosity. Most people know that I read restaurant menus like other people read novels. I’m always on the lookout for something I can’t or don’t like to make at home. I also love to see items that show the chef’s creativity, or something that I haven’t seen on a menu in a long time.
Cue: La Cigogne, right on Main Street in Narrowsburg, NY. Even though the restaurant clearly states where it is located on their website (lower level), we missed that part and spent a while trying to find them. We saw what looked like a side entrance and a view of the Delaware River and then realized that the main entrance to the restaurant was through a building with a few retail stores. The town of Narrowsburg is small, but it does have a couple of antique shops, a few other places to eat, including a brewery and a cafe. So, there’s stuff to do, but most places when we got there on a Wednesday afternoon were closed. So, we decided to check into our hotel, The Darby.
The Darby
The Darby doesn’t get great reviews. Why? I’m not sure, it just seems like everyone has an issue these days. Some people complained it was dirty. (It wasn’t.) Others complained there wasn’t anyone around. (Actually, my idea of a perfect stay.) Really, the list of why one shouldn’t stay there was endless. Since we were staying mid-week and got a really good rate for a room, I thought how bad could it be?
It wasn’t bad at all. At one point it had been a nursing home which meant that the hallways were wider than normal, as were the bathrooms (for wheelchairs). I thought this was a brilliant idea for re-purposing a space rather than tearing it down and building something new. Located right across the bridge from Narrowsburg, NY, it was a mere 2-minute drive to the restaurant. (The Darby’s address is actually Beach Lake, PA, which sounds made-up but apparently is correct.) Our room key was left on a counter in the lobby with a note and an arrow pointing to go “left.” But first we looked around. Funky tables and chairs, a bar area that is open on the weekends, a fire pit and seating areas outside, really made me question the bad reviews.
In the hunt for an ice machine (our only real issue), we found a room with a pool table and a chair that Lynn liked so much I thought he might just spend the evening sitting on it. There is one thing missing in the rooms though that I didn’t even notice until Lynn pointed it out to me. (Hint: NO TV!) After a quick shower (and listening to some tunes on my phone in lieu of television noise), we got in the car and drove back to town.
A Little Bit of France
Not only is La Cigogne a gorgeously designed restaurant, but the menu made me very homesick. Although billed as featuring Alsatian specialties, it had many of the dishes I grew up eating in Munich. Escargots? Tartes Flambés? Spätzle? They also had a schnitzel on the menu that we opted not to get only because we make it so often at home. But here are a few pictures of our delicious dinner. And yes, those are peaches on our Tartes Flambés which I loved!
We got to speak to Damien, the owner, after we had eaten and got to hear about the fall/winter menu. He is planning on what I like to call “tummy-warming” dishes when it’s freezing outside. You know things like cassoulet and choucroute and a coq au vin which he has on the menu now. The space is very comfortable, the bar was busy but not too loud, and with a wallet-friendly beverage menu (including some great French wines), the restaurant just oozes romance. Did I mention the jazzy playlist? Once again, this is the type of place that I wish we had near us, or at least closer than a three-hour drive. But we don’t.
Back at The Darby, we decided to play some pool. Lynn has played pool before. If I have, I don’t remember, so let’s just say that at least I didn’t rip the green felt top!
When I looked at the last time I had written a travel story for Let’s Go, it was October 2024! The stay in Narrowsburg was the start of our trip to Washington, D.C., and Virginia, so there are a few more stories to be written. Going forward, I’m hoping we’ll be able to do a bit more traveling in 2026, even if it’s just for long weekends.
On that note, I find my inbox loaded with articles on how to find calmness in your daily life. I usually manage to achieve both peace and quiet by having a good meal, some wine, and a view. Here’s the view from La Cigogne. Peaceful and calm, right? I think so.
After the tropical storm in Wilmington, we finally checked out of the hotel from hell (read my last blog about this if you need a laugh) and grabbed a quick breakfast down the block. Called “The Basics,” this place was anything but, offering a variety of breakfast dishes including a biscuit that was piled with smoked pork, eggs and cheese. It was so incredibly big that I was afraid I wouldn’t be able to finish it. But I did. Lynn ordered a BLT egg sandwich that came with what was described as a “potato cake,” but actually looked like a giant arancini (fried rice ball for those who don’t know). I had to sneak a couple of bites of that one and it was good.
Virginia and Real Peanuts
We broke up the drive to Richmond by stopping at the Good Earth Peanut Company in Skippers, VA. I was expecting the shack-like look of their establishment. I wasn’t expecting the high-end peanuts that they produce. I’m also not afraid to admit that I hated peanuts growing up – any kind of peanut including peanut butter. It’s only been in the last 15 years or so that I can even eat a peanut as well as peanut sauce in most Thai or Asian dishes. Bizarrely, I do like peanut butter cookies (especially with chocolate chips), but still cannot eat a PB & J. I just think it’s gross. Anyway, if you’re doing a road trip and end up on I-95 and need a break, this is a fun place to stop and pick up a can of peanuts. We bought the sea salt variety.
The American Civil War Museum – Tredegar
Back in 2021, we barely had time to see the Edgar Allan Poe house/museum, when our trip got caught short. We didn’t even know the American Civil War Museum existed so decided to pay it a visit this time. Described on their website as exploring the Civil War from three different perspectives: North, South and African American, I thought the exhibitions were interesting and the building even more so.
Built on the ruins of the Tredegar Ironworks Central Foundry, it’s located on the James River waterfront. I thought the design of this building was fantastic and I loved how someone managed to build a modern building around the ruins. Take a look at the existing brick walls inside the museum which I thought was really cool.
After the museum, we spotted a large statue up on a hill and made our way there to take a look at the Virginia War Memorial.
Another Hilton, then Dinner & Breakfast!
This Hilton was like night and day. Converted from an old department store, the hotel was large and still had a certain elegance to it. The rooms were renovated, and I was afraid the sheer size of the hotel would lead to noise issues during our stay, but we heard no one.
We ended up going to Lillie Pearl for dinner which is the restaurant we never made it to on our last visit. When we walked in on a Tuesday night and the restaurant was packed, I inquired from our server if it was always like this on Tuesday’s. His eyes got very big, and he looked at me and said, “I don’t even know where all these people came from.”
That said, it was loud and party-like and we were lucky they held our table for us. However, I guess I was expecting a little more finesse from the kitchen. I thought the fried chicken was solid, but a tad dry, and the shrimp and grits were just okay. Still, I liked the atmosphere and while we definitely did NOT need dessert, I hadn’t had a single peach anything on this trip (yet). So, we ordered a deconstructed peach bread pudding which was gooey and good, but didn’t taste much like peaches.
Perly’s – It’s where you want to be
I hadn’t thought much about going to a Jewish restaurant/deli for breakfast the next morning, but when I stumbled upon Perly’s down the street from our hotel and looked at their menu, my reaction was WOW.
Basically, anything you could think of that would fit under the category “comfort food” was there to be had. Their website states that they open at 9 a.m., so, we got there shortly afterwards. I think, however, the locals know that’s not the real time they open, since a lot of people were already sitting and eating.
Care to have a plate called “The Schnorrer”? Complete with your choice of eggs, fish or meat, bread or bagel, with a potato latke, applesauce and chive sour cream? Don’t mind if I do. Lynn, who loves big breakfasts more than I do, decided he would simply get an egg sandwich. I didn’t question this but made a very big deal about eating my “schnorrer” with extra gusto.
And no, I didn’t fall asleep after such a heavy repast. We just got in the car (after getting a $20 parking ticket in Richmond because the Passport app that everyone is now using failed me) and drove towards Fenwick Island.
The Beach and Fenwick Island
We stayed in a newer Hilton a block from the beach. We had a large room and even a balcony where you can hear the waves but not see them since we were about a block back from the ocean.
I loved the beaches in Delaware. Actually, I loved Delaware so much that if the Lotto Goddess ever blessed me with some really decent winnings, I would buy a second house there. I’ve been thinking about a second house because I miss having someplace else to go since I get bored being in the same place all the time. But if you’ve read my stories, you probably already know that.
Best Meal of the Trip
There I said it and you don’t even know which restaurant I’m referring to. The restaurant is called Our Harvest, and they bring wood-fired cooking to a whole new level. There’s a large bar area, but we sat in the dining room across from the open kitchen, and just watched plate after plate of wonderful things being brought out. It’s a tapas-style menu so while it might sound like we ordered a lot of dishes, most of the plates were a few bites. Lynn and I both like trying lots of different things when we eat out, so it was a lot of fun. Plus, they have an outstanding wine list.
In no particular order, but all were worthy, I share with you: grilled octopus, swordfish, bison short ribs, lamb merguez meatballs (the only weak link in the line-up I thought), and then drum roll please – a wooden board filled with not one, but five grilled peaches on top of blueberry-flavored mascarpone with more blueberries scattered on top. The peaches alone were probably the best single thing I’ve eaten in my entire life. And I’ve eaten many, many outstanding dishes.
Bethany, Rehoboth Beach, and Lewes
Before we moved permanently to the Red House, we drove down to Delaware and spent some time in Rehoboth Beach. I had forgotten somehow that when our kids were little, we’d rent a house (on stilts) and enjoy a week at the beach. Now I’m sorry to report that summer rentals have skyrocketed in price and a rental that we might have paid $600/week for is likely to set you back closer to $4,000. I always say to Lynn, “I’m glad we did things a long time ago when everything was a lot cheaper.”
We walked both boardwalks, took some pictures, went into a couple of t-shirt shops looking for a particular t-shirt we can never find, and decided to drive into Lewes. We had maybe visited Lewes once before when we took the ferry over from Cape May, but neither of us remembered it.
We also visited the Zwaanendael Museum in town which looks exactly like a building you’d find in the Netherlands because it was modeled after one. Once again, I found myself quizzing the people who worked there (transplants) about how they liked their newly adopted state. Delaware is the first state to ratify the constitution, and Lewes, therefore is the first town. If you are wondering how Lewes is pronounced, it’s Lewis, as in Jerry Lewis. I had been saying “Loos” all these years which I was told was wrong.
The weather also cooperated enough for us to ditch plans to have lunch at a restaurant and just get a sandwich and take it down to the beach. Was it fortuitous that we happened to find a really good Italian deli in downtown Lewes? That would make eggplant parm sandwiches to go? And even sell you big chunks of Parmesan cheese? (This is a big deal for us since we have to travel over 70 miles where we live now to find an Italian deli with the aforementioned items.)
So, we sat on the beach sharing the sandwich and listening to the waves hit the sand.
Close Runner-Up for Dinner that Night
While we loved Our Harvest, we really liked One Coastal, too. The food was expertly prepared, and the composition of the plates was stunning. I just had a problem with the space. It was small and kind of non-descript, and while we could have opted to eat outside, that would have put us basically in the parking lot watching cars go by on Coastal Highway Route 1.
Still, I’d definitely pay a return visit to sample things like chicken and biscuits, which was really a tongue-in-cheek dish since the chicken in question was a liver pâté. When it was spread out on the plate, it looked like wet sand which made it fun to eat. The fresh salad and the figs were also insanely good.
Tons of chefs do tuna crudo and pair it with watermelon. I realized then that there’s lots of fresh tuna off the coast of Delaware which is why this dish tasted just so much better than any other rendition I’ve had. I also had to inquire what those tiny round green balls were that you see on the plate and was enlightened to learn they are “cucamelons” aka Mexican miniature watermelons. They were fun to eat, but truthfully, didn’t have much taste.
We also shared a crab aguachile in a spicy pepper broth that was delicious. Followed by a cucumber salad with smoked trout roe and fresh dill that was just okay.
Still, after those small plates, we wanted more tuna. So, we split an entree of seared tuna with a salad that was so pretty, I just had to look at it for a bit.
And Then…
In the morning, we braced ourselves for a 7-hour drive home. But not before visiting one of the WWII Observation Towers, taking a couple of photographs, as well as trying to memorize the view as much as possible until we can return. Which I hope will be very, very soon.
We left Canada in the morning and headed back into Michigan. We had tickets for a tour to see Frank Lloyd Wright’s Smith house, the Cranbrook House and Gardens, and Eliel Saarinen’s art deco house on the Cranbrook Academy campus the following day.
Problem was that since staying more than one night in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan, (where the Cranbrook Academy is located) would be prohibitively expensive, we decided to stay further away. Which is how we ended up in Grand Rapids, Michigan, a town we had never been to.
Gerald Ford Presidential Museum
We got there later in the afternoon than planned (border crossings, traffic and a lackluster fast food lunch contributed to the delay) but ended up at the Gerald Ford Presidential Museum with just enough time left to tour the museum.
Was it coincidental that we ended up there exactly 50 years to the day (August 9) that he took office? Perhaps. What was particularly interesting for me is that since I was living in Munich at the time (and a teenager), there was a lot of American history and goings-on that I didn’t know about. I mean, yes, I knew about Vietnam, Watergate, and Nixon, but not much more than that. Consequently, I thought the museum was fascinating and they even recreated the oval office. Plus, they also had the famous needle nose pliers, and the screwdriver used to break into Watergate on display.
Both Gerald Ford and his wife Elizabeth (Betty) are buried on the property and there are statues of them, too.
Downtown Grand Rapids
After the museum we drove through downtown Grand Rapids. There were quite a few people walking around and some sort of downtown festival. What we noticed, however, were the stores and the restaurants! Apparently, we had stumbled back into civilization; that was the good part of the afternoon. The bad part was we checked into a Homewood Suites that occupied a certain number of floors of an old building. We have stayed at properties like this before and I find it disconcerting not knowing where to check in or park your car.
After finding the “front desk,” we were upgraded to a bigger suite with a window and a view of the downtown. We started to unpack and as I went to pee, I found out that the toilet wouldn’t flush. So, we called downstairs and one of the managers came up with a key to a different room on the same floor. This room had one window that looked at the interior of the parking garage and nothing else. The room was dark and depressing. I decided to ignore the situation and figured I would just politely complain in the morning.
Dinner at Leo’s
There has been a trend lately of restaurants texting me nearly 30 minutes before a reservation to tell me my table is “ready.” If I made a dinner reservation at 7:30, why would I possibly want to show up 30 minutes earlier? This has a profound negative effect on my mood before I’m even there. Primarily because it signals to me that 1) the restaurant is not crowded (bad sign, especially if it’s a Friday or Saturday night), and 2) the kitchen wants to close so everyone can go home.
We arrived at Leo’s at exactly 7:31. The place was not crowded and the interior of the restaurant left something to be desired. (Think hotel dining room anywhere in the world). I had picked Leo’s because it was known for its seafood. Even though we had spent the last four days eating fish, when you are as land-locked as we are now living up in the Mohawk Valley of Upstate NY, you eat as much fish as you can when traveling.
It technically wasn’t warm enough to have soup (I’m finicky that way about seasons and soup eating), but for some reason the salmon chowder that was on the menu appealed to me. A combination of both smoked and fresh salmon with chunks of potatoes and some corn, this chowder was really good. It doesn’t look like much here, but it was tasty.
Mussels were next. The tomato broth was really fresh and tomatoey, but I was so captivated by the beautiful plate it was on that when I was done, I actually turned it over to see if I could find out where it was made. (No clue.) And finally, another round of perch. We had two more days left in Michigan and I knew that tonight would be the last fish we’d eat on the trip. Sigh. The perch was just okay. And we passed on dessert.
Calder Plaza
Afterwards we walked around downtown Grand Rapids a bit – primarily to see if we could see the Alexander Calder sculpture, “La Grand Vitesse,” which we did. I also liked the way the town had renovated some of the old buildings but kept a few interesting architectural elements. (Think gas lighting.) It was a fun walk after our meal.
Back on the Road
Before we left the hotel in the morning, I did mention how unhappy I was about the room and the parking and the toilet situation. We must have gotten lucky because the general manager was actually working the desk and comped us not only the room, but the parking as well. Thank you for that!
Our architectural tour started at 1 p.m. and would last roughly four hours. I really dislike any event that interrupts a meal but figured we could grab something for a quick, early lunch somewhere.
We drove about two hours southeast and reached Bloomfield Hills. If anyone has ever visited Bloomfield Hills, do you know what’s missing? SIDEWALKS! We headed towards the commercial strip first and got a turkey wrap to go. And since I was adamant that I couldn’t leave Michigan without having a slice of cherry pie, we just happened to find a pie store. Did you know pie stores even existed? I didn’t. Fortunately, they did have slices of cherry pie. Was it the best pie I’ve ever had. No, but that’s not the point.
Cranbrook Art Museum
We met in the courtyard of the academy to check in at the Cranbrook Art Museum and to get our bearings. Founded by George Booth in 1927, he was instrumental in starting the arts and crafts movement in the U.S. and teamed up with Eliel Saarinen (father of more famous architect Eero Saarinen) to develop plans for the campus. The museum was completed in 1942, and unfortunately, we didn’t have time to walk through the exhibition. But I loved the gardens and all the fountains.
A Three House Tour: Cranbrook First
We started by seeing the Cranbrook house first. While it was grandiose (think Tudor) on the outside and had some interesting features, I’ve come to dislike this kind of architecture and furnishings. Everything seems old and musty. I did like their library, and they had an interesting German wood carving that reminded me of Munich. Also, some painted ceilings that gave the place a European je ne sais quoi. When I looked through my photographs, it seemed that I took more pictures of the exterior of the house (grounds, etc.) than inside.
The Saarinen House
Eliel Saarinen designed a house on campus where he and his wife Loja, lived for over 20 years (1930-1950). The Cranbrook Art Museum’s website describes it as a “beloved architectural treasure,” and I couldn’t agree more. This house appealed to all my senses – the clean lines, the modern furniture, even the paint colors they chose for the walls, as well as the floor coverings.
And don’t even get me started on the furniture. Look at this photograph of a bedroom with the original womb chair and ottoman designed by Eero Saarinen. Notice anything that kind of looks Ikea-like? Yep, he was the guy who did it first. And a closet with pull out shelves? (I had a version of this when I was in Munich; it’s very practical.)
I couldn’t resist sharing this photograph of our tour group, all wearing booties, and extremely enthusiastic about the houses and the architecture.
Finally, Frank
I wanted to like this Frank Lloyd Wright house, but I found it underwhelming and cluttered. What I did love about it was the back story. Melvyn and Sara Smith met Frank Lloyd Wright in 1941 and commissioned him to design a house. Frank, in his customarily dismissive attitude when potential clients would approach him, told them to find property first and come back when they found it. Apparently, even though Melvyn and Sara had absolutely no money and were earning paltry salaries as teachers, if you split a hot dog for dinner with your spouse and save every last penny that you earn, you too, can buy land. This property eventually became a Frank Lloyd Wright Usonian house that the Smith’s then had to build themselves. (And I thought renovating the Red House was difficult…)
In true FLW fashion, this kitchen is compact and designed for people who don’t cook. And look at the twin beds and the ugly green bathroom!
There was also an extension that was added on at some point. I did like the dining room and thought the chairs were fun.
After the Smith’s built the house, they also became avid collectors of things. (Think borderline hoarders.) That’s why the house felt cluttered to me because there was a lot more stuff in this FLW house than others we’ve seen. I guess the moral of the story is to be careful what you wish for. You might end up with it.
The Town With No Sidewalks
We spent the night at a Hilton in the town with no sidewalks. When I inquired from the front desk clerk about this strange phenomenon, it was explained that the residents wanted to make sure that people who weren’t supposed to be there weren’t walking around making themselves “feel at home.” I assumed he meant people of color and since he himself was black, I took this to heart.
However, since we were having dinner across the street, we wondered, how would we actually get across the street? With all the traffic? And no crosswalks or lights? Answer: very carefully. We had our last dinner of the trip at an old school steak restaurant where I was so relaxed that I didn’t take a single picture of our meal! And that’s okay. We were heading home tomorrow, an 8 hour plus drive back to New York.
In case anyone is curious, my most recent short story on Substack was inspired by the visit to Cranbrook and the town with no sidewalks. Here’s the link if you haven’t read the first part of the two-part story.
Lake Superior was the only great lake we had never seen. We weren’t planning on going to see the “last one” this summer, but when I researched going back to Maine and the Eastern Townships area of Quebec, those areas proved to be prohibitively expensive. So, a trip to Ontario, and the Upper Peninsula area of Michigan seemed a more affordable option.
Since I was celebrating a birthday and didn’t want to spend all day driving on my birthday, we decided to leave the day before. This way (we hoped) we’d have no issues crossing over the border into Ontario in the morning. Why was I so considered about border traffic? Because I had a lunch reservation at a winery that I didn’t want to miss.
Old School Cafe, Naples, NY
Our first stop though was lunch in Naples, NY. The Old School Cafe, right on the main road, had been on my “to do” list for a while, and it didn’t disappoint. But has anyone ever seen me post a picture of a waffle? The answer to that is NO. Even my daughter, Rachel, was alarmed that my first meal of our trip was something I never make, order, or eat. I just don’t eat waffles.
I’m not sure what possessed me that afternoon, but suddenly I wanted something different. Something sweet and something savory. Therefore, The Old School Cafe’s special that day, a buttermilk waffle topped with Korean spicy chicken, was definitely a hit.
On the way from Naples to Medina (where we were staying for the night), Lynn happened to mention a Louis Kahn church in Rochester that he had visited once in college. Could we detour he asked? Of course, I said yes, and luckily, it wasn’t even a detour, but a mere two minutes from the highway we were already on.
Louis Kahn in Rochester
The First Unitarian Church of Rochester was completed in 1962. The building was closed so we weren’t able to get inside, but we did walk around the entire structure. Was it the ugliest building I’ve ever seen? No. Here’s a photograph of it anyway.
Medina, New York
We had been to Medina a few years ago and had stopped for lunch. It seemed like a quirky town with a couple of decent restaurants and even some boutique-type hotels. Since Medina is only an hour away from the Canadian border, it seemed like a good choice since there was a restaurant there that I had my eye on, too.
Downtown Medina is small. You can walk both sides of the street in under 10 minutes and find yourself wondering what else to do. We came across a plaque, commemorating a speech Frederick Douglass gave. Was it coincidental that it just happened to be the same day (August 3), but 155 years later? Perhaps. (This also happened to us on another occasion on the trip.)
After walking around the downtown area, we decided to try and see Medina Falls. Unfortunately, the pathway overlooking the falls was crumbling and thus, a bit scary. Plus, there were so many trees and bushes overlooking the falls, that I couldn’t really get a decent view. Actually, had I not heard the sound of the water rushing (plus a dog barking whose owner somehow had managed to get down closer to the falls), I wouldn’t have known that the falls even existed.
After the lackluster viewing of the falls, I drove to see The Culvert Road. I knew that it was the only road under the Erie Canal, but didn’t know the “Ripley’s Believe It Or Not” connection. Apparently, we had missed it the last time we were in town, and since we were the only car on the road, it obviously wasn’t a trendy tourist thing to do. (Since I now live near the Erie Canal, most fun facts about the canal pique my interest.)
The Hart House Hotel
Now that we can travel any day of the week, we generally try to avoid Friday or Saturday nights because it’s always more expensive to stay on those days. Unfortunately, this time we didn’t have a choice, and luckily, the Hart House Hotel had one room available. I loved this quirky hotel and admired all the hard work the owners put into restoring it. It features a contactless check-in, and I’m glad they like to rave on their website that they now have an elevator since our room was on the third floor and the stairs were steep. And no, we didn’t sleep on the couch. Our room was quite large (hence the sitting area) and named after John Jacob Astor.
I would have liked to talk about the dinner we had that night in Medina because it was another reason we had decided to stay there. Alas, it turned out to be the most expensive meal of the trip, and disappointing, too. I rarely post a negative review of a restaurant I’ve been to, primarily because I don’t want anyone to lose their livelihood. I also understand the power of negative reviews on Tripadvisor and Google that can potentially turn people away. The few times I’ve had an issue with a meal, I’ve sent a note afterwards to the manager just as a heads-up and expect nothing in return. My silence about this particular restaurant will be enough.
On To Canada (But Lake Ontario First)
In the morning, we had time to kill before a 1:30 lunch reservation at Trius, a winery/restaurant we had been to before in Niagara-on-the-Lake. So, we decided to take the long way on Route 18 which runs along Lake Ontario. The weather that day was gorgeous, and we got to see a new lighthouse, Three Mile Point, as well as what looked like a laid-back summer town of Olcott. One takeaway from this ride were the gorgeous flowers (particularly sunflowers) that I saw blooming in everyone’s garden! For the birthday girl, it made her day!
Niagara-On-The-Lake
We have been to this area of Ontario many times and it’s still one of our favorite places to visit. Luckily, the border crossing was quick, and although we did end up driving through the town of NOL to see what was “new,” we just made it in time for our lunch reservation.
We sat outside and looked at the grapes still hanging on the vines. After discussing the hot weather we’ve had with our server, we learned that their harvest might be brought in about three weeks earlier this year. Since I know nothing about harvesting grapes, I just filed this away under something “good to know.” Followed by, yes, climate change is real!
Back to lunch. We had wine flights, and we had a tomato and nectarine salad. Then we had a cold smoked salmon plate with fingerling potatoes and poached shrimp. We split a slice of apricot cake with mousse that was frosted with a white chocolate ganache and whipped cream. We ordered more wine to go with dessert, and thinking about this lunch now makes me very hungry.
Most importantly, look how happy we are after this amazing meal!
London (Ontario that is)
Somehow, I had confused London, Ontario, with a town I thought we had been to and remembered as “charming.” This was not the same town. However, I specifically wanted to stay overnight there because of a restaurant that was on my “foodie radar.” I will mention how much I LOVE traveling through Canada, but how much I HATE the 401, the 405, the 403, and any other major highway that reminds me of being on Long Island. Unfortunately, to get anywhere quickly in Canada, these highways are your only option. Traffic is always bumper-to-bumper. But there aren’t any tolls, and there are “ONroute” rest areas every so often if you need to pee or a get a cup of coffee.
So, after getting off the 401, we made sure the restaurant we were going to was within walking distance of our hotel, and that there were sidewalks. (More on the latter later.) I had forgotten that the next business day was a civic holiday, which meant downtown London was pretty empty. Most people, I’m assuming, having departed for some sort of vacation or camping adventure elsewhere.
Dinner at Grace
Grace offers a CA$65 4-course prix fixe menu that you can’t beat. The Executive Chef, Angie Murphy, also has a sense of humor in that she has named many of her dishes. Case in point: the new potato and pickled cucumber dish that you see below, called “Velvet Underground,” is such an unassuming dish on the menu that I wasn’t sure if I should order it. However, this one totally wowed me. The potatoes and the cucumbers were so smooth (hence the velvet description, I assume) that I could have ordered another plate of that one dish alone. Next up: “Gold Bar” – polenta with eggplant, tomatoes, compressed zucchini, parmesan and basil in a thick tomato sauce. Lynn had a duck breast as an entree (not shown), but I went for something a bit unusual.
Titled “Doctor, Doctor” (put the lime in the coconut and call me in the morning), it featured Ube gnocchi with mushrooms, tofu, and cilantro in a hot coconut sour sauce. I did check with our server to make sure I knew about “Ube.” (It’s similar to a sweet potato, but actually a yam with a gorgeous purple color.) Finally, last but not least, dessert was a “Chocolate Mirage.” Also known as chocolate mousse on a stick with a sour cherry sorbet, the dish was fun and delicious. Oh, and in case you were wondering, the “stick” in question was actually a biscuit that was made to look like a stick and totally edible.
A Bit of Bavaria in Frankenmuth, Michigan
After leaving London in the morning, we crossed back over the border, and suddenly were in Michigan. Frankenmuth was a surprise to me. I was looking for a place to stop for lunch and didn’t know anything about this German-themed town near Saginaw, but still about three hours from our Mackinaw City destination.
Luckily, I had already scoped out the lunch possibilities and settled on Prost, a wine bar/restaurant that specialized in charcuterie. How could we resist that? It was very crowded, but we managed to get a seat at the bar. Since we knew we had a big dinner ahead of us, we decided to share a “German Heritage” board with a couple of beers. I was already feeling a bit elitist (having lived in Munich for so long) that I didn’t think the kitchen would be able to pull off a decent rendition, but they did.
Our board had some summer sausage, liver pate, black forest ham (the only cold cut that I wasn’t particularly fond of), as well as a mild “Butterkäse” cheese along with sauerkraut, pickles and bread. We drank Paulaner out of a can, and I was pleasantly surprised that the food was so good.
Afterwards we walked around town, and I tried to think I was in Bavaria – somewhere. I took a lot of pictures. There were murals, there were tons of flowers, and even a little Glockenspiel with dancing figurines. On the way out of town we even got to drive under an “Auf Wiedersehen” arch.
Mackinaw City Here We Come
I love to look at maps and would frequently look at a map of Michigan. (I know, I know, boring.) But looking at a map fuels my desire to travel and plan trips to see things I haven’t seen before. I had always wondered about Mackinaw City and the Mackinac Bridge which crosses the Straits of Mackinac connecting Lake Michigan and Lake Huron.
I had booked the cheapest hotel I could find for Mackinaw City in August. This meant we were staying at a Holiday Inn right near the bridge. The good news: we had a small balcony and even had a glimpse of the water. The bad news: if you sat outside on the balcony, you were accosted by never-ending traffic (including heavy trucks), so the noise level was pretty high. Luckily, the hotel was on the newer side (or renovated, I’m not exactly sure), and someone had the brains to not only put in room darkening shades in our room, but also install windows that kept all the noise outside.
The Holiday Inn was adequate for our two-night stay. But what we didn’t realize is that although we could almost see the restaurant we had booked that night from our hotel, we weren’t sure how to get there because of the bridge and the traffic. Luckily, we found a road that went under both. When given the option of walking to dinner, we usually prefer that over driving.
Audie’s for Dinner
Billed as a restaurant with both a “Family Room” and “Chippewa Room,” of course we walked into the family side by mistake. I will take a moment to comment on families that let their children 1) run around, 2) make a lot of noise and generally behave badly at the table, and 3) order off a kid’s menu when they are old enough to eat “real” food. I just can’t fathom having children who would behave like that in any restaurant and immediately feel hostile towards parents who don’t do anything to change their children’s behavior. End of rant.
Once we found the correct entrance, two things caught my eye on Audie’s menu. Perch and Whitefish. The last time I had eaten perch was when my grandmother, Theresa, was still alive. She lived in Whiting, Indiana, a mere 29 minutes from downtown Chicago, on the shores of Lake Michigan. Occasionally when I’d visit, I remembered many “all you can eat perch” meals at a place called Phil Smidt. Before they went out of business, I even found a retro-looking postcard that I’m particularly fond of. I even put the postcard in a small frame to remind me that their sauteed perch in butter sauce was the best I’ve ever eaten!
I was hoping Audie’s would be up for the challenge. While their perch was decent, it wasn’t the buttery, melt-in-your-mouth goodness I was looking for. Still, the menu was fun. We had some Oysters Rockefeller to start, followed by the perch, and apparently, someone had told them it was my birthday week, so we split some homemade vanilla maple ice cream for dessert.
And if anyone wants to see the glimpse of water from our little balcony and the bridge at night, I have photographs of that, too.
Tomorrow we’ll take the ferry over to Mackinac Island. You’ll be able to read about it on my next post.
Last summer, I wanted to visit Naulakha, the only house that was built by Rudyard Kipling in Dummerston, Vermont. Unfortunately, the trip never panned out, so when tickets went on sale for this year’s opening, I didn’t waste any time.
Now owned by The Landmark Trust USA, the house is about a 10-minute drive from Brattleboro. Construction started in 1892-1893 and Kipling spent about $11,000 to have the house built. He was also adamant that the architect, Henry Rutgers Marshall of NYC, design it so the layout was similar to a ship. I didn’t really see the ship allusion, but the house is quirky, and the grounds are beautiful.
Manchester for Lunch
We had started this two-day trip the day before and headed to Manchester for lunch. I’ve written frequently about traveling to Vermont when we lived on Long Island, and how when our son was little, he called the state of Vermont “Mont.” Apparently to him, it was a magical place that Mommy and Daddy liked to disappear to every so often.
Manchester has changed in the 30+ years we’ve been visiting. Some of the old Inns are still there, but bigger chain hotels have moved in. There seem to be more places to eat now and less shopping. (That in my opinion is a good thing.)
Sunday lunch (not brunch) can be tricky even in major urban areas. My favorite thing to do is simply look at Google maps, click on some restaurants in the area I’ll be traveling to, and hope that their restaurant hours and website are up to date. Bonus points if they have posted a recent menu and not a “Mother’s Day” menu from 2022.
We ended up at a new place (for us), The Crooked Ram, that advertised their outdoor dining area – The Yard. Since I love eating outside on almost any occasion (well, maybe not when it’s snowing), this seemed like a lovely way to kick off our small trip.
The Yard has a fun vibe. You’re sitting outside but are covered under a mostly open wood beam structure. The menu is small plates oriented and creative. If there were any pet peeves on my part, it was their highly crafted, but limited wine offerings by the glass. This is partially my fault. I’m not up to speed on organic/natural wines and haven’t jumped on the orange wines that are very trendy right now. (I actually had to look up how that particular color is achieved. It’s wine made from white wine grapes, but they use the same fermentation process as red wine.)
We were going to get oysters to start. But when I learned they had been flown in from the West Coast, I balked. I really do try to stay local and not contribute to climate change problems. Hence, I don’t like to order things to eat that first had to make either a plane ride or long-distance truck haul in order to get on my plate. I did see other tables eating these oysters and hoped we could get some for dinner.
Tuna Crudo and A Pie
So, forgoing the oysters, the next best thing was for us to order a tuna crudo with dill fronds and thin slices of radishes with a diced fennel garnish. There were also some spicy red peppers thrown in with the vinaigrette and all I can say is “Yummy!” Could the tuna have been flown in from the West Coast as well? Possibly, but at this point I had already passed on the oysters, and the crudo sounded delicious.
You’ll notice in the photograph below that after much back and forth with our very patient server, I simply ordered us glasses of French Burgundy. Yes, I wimped out after trying to discuss the merits of a certain white or orange wine, and I wasn’t in the mood for beer.
After the tuna, we decided to split an artichoke and coppa-laden pizza that was pretty good. I say that because while the dough was thin and chewy, it was a little on the bready side for my taste. Still, it hit the spot and we had a nice lunch.
This was not an inexpensive meal, and I did read many of the Trip Advisor reviews online where people complained about the prices and the small portions. I don’t mind small portions and since I food shop almost every day, I know what good food costs. Factor in the price of staff to make and serve such delicacies and, yes, it becomes very expensive to eat out these days.
Woodstock Next
We didn’t remember ever visiting Woodstock, Vermont, and after lunch we drove to see “what’s there.” There were shops, a few hotels, a few restaurants, but the most popular place in town seemed to be the ice cream place – Woodstock Scoops. It was hot, it was summer, could we actually get a scoop of ice cream and break our record of only one scoop a year? (We already had ice cream last month after a day on Lake Ontario.) We did. Well, since we were in Vermont, I wanted something with maple syrup in it. Hence, my scoop of vanilla with maple syrup and walnuts. It was so good that I forgot to take a photograph! I just ate most of it myself until I handed the cup over to Lynn who had already finished his (boring in my opinion) chocolate soft serve in a cone.
One Red Covered Bridge Needed
I wanted a picture of a red covered bridge so did a quick search on my phone and found one after our ice cream stop. The Taftsville covered bridge proved to be a popular spot with visitors that day, but I did get more than one photograph.
Waterbury – Hen of the Wood
We had visited Waterbury back in August 2021 and the reason for our visit this time (besides visiting Kipling’s house which at this point was now two hours south of us) was to have dinner at Hen of the Wood. We had eaten at their Burlington location, but never snagged a reservation at their Waterbury place.
Hen of the Wood is now located in downtown Waterbury, a move from their previous site. The space is modern which I wasn’t expecting but not cold. The menu and wine list were as inviting as their Burlington spot, and the service was probably some of the best I’ve experienced in a few years.
We were lucky that they had oysters to start. From Cape Cod! That’s only two states over, right? So, we ordered a half dozen. In perusing the menu, I was almost embarrassed to admit to our server, Maria, that I knew what “Fazzoletti” meant. (It’s handkerchief pasta.) Although I told her in jest not to tell anybody, even she couldn’t resist raising her eyebrows at my knowledge. That said, the pasta was a bit doughy, but the mascarpone cream sauce with spinach and breadcrumbs brought it all together. We ordered the ham-wrapped rabbit loin next and while it looked very appealing on the plate, it was a bit dry.
This location, like Burlington, has a wine list with lots of vintages you don’t see on other restaurant menus. We ordered an Austrian blend which was a nice accompaniment to the entree we split – a hanger steak with asparagus and grilled onions that looked like tiny trumpets on top of the steak. Heralding summer perhaps?
We weren’t going to get dessert, having already indulged in ice cream that afternoon, but they were offering a selection of Vermont cheeses. Perhaps I was expecting a cheese plate from days past. What we got was a wedge of cheese with some rhubarb-y purée and a few crackers. It was underwhelming.
After dinner we walked across the street to look at real estate listings since our table had been facing the window of a local real estate office. We aren’t looking for a house, but I always get a kick out of seeing how much people are asking for houses/land in the area. (Most of the homes were over $1 million.)
Back on the Roadin the Morning
We had some time to kill before our timed ticketed entry to visit the house, so after we had a halfway decent hotel breakfast (bacon, eggs, toast, weak coffee, and even fresh fruit), we stopped to take a look at how Montpelier was doing. You may remember that the capital of Vermont sustained massive flooding last summer. The town was up and running but it looked like they were still trying to pave the road in front of the Vermont State House.
Finally, Naulakha
Here’s a photograph of Rudyard Kipling’s house as you walk up the driveway.
It was fascinating to walk inside the house and go through the rooms. While it’s now available for short term rentals (as a historic property through The Landmark Trust), I think they did a good job of trying to retain the authenticity of the house. The kitchen is equipped for modern day use (toaster, stove, fridge, etc.), but when you walk through the dining room and the guest bedrooms, I did get a sense of Kipling being there.
Couple of things I learned while walking through the house. I didn’t realize he was so incredibly prolific as a writer, or that he made a lot of money doing so. His wife, Caroline, kept a very detailed diary, not only of what their daily life was like up in Vermont, but of their finances. On December 31, 1894, Kipling wrote: “Carrie tots up the books and finds that I have this year earned $25,000. Not exactly a bad record.”
Here’s a picture of his desk and a bookcase filled with his work.
Besides the various small guest rooms (most with single beds), there were two rooms that were designated as “nurseries” for his three children. The plasterwork in the photograph was done by Kipling’s father who was also an illustrator/teacher and curator who spent most of his career in India. There was also an expansive loggia with lovely views of the garden and the mountains in the distance. I could imagine him sitting there during his residence. I could also imagine myself sitting there and writing…
The Attic
We went up to the third floor of the house to see the attic. In this part of the house, there was a pool table, but also a collection of Kipling’s golf clubs. Apparently, he enjoyed playing golf when Arthur Conan Doyle (author of the Sherlock Holmes books) came to visit him. Kipling, according to legend, is also credited with introducing “snow golf” in Vermont. (He painted the golf balls red so he could see them in the snow.)
The Rhododendrons
These were added by the subsequent owners, the Holbrooks, in 1903 but wow, they are amazing! They’ve gotten so large that the bushes have created tunnels where you walk underneath the flowers. I expected them to be intoxicatingly perfumy, but they weren’t at all. It was fun to walk through them and I would have gone back a second time, but there was a bit of a crowd. Lynn did manage to take a photograph of me, so you can see the size of the flowers after nearly 120+ years.
The Years in Vermont
Rudyard Kipling lived in Naulakha for only four years (1892-1896), but it proved to be fruitful. There, he wrote, The Jungle Book, Captains Courageous and also portions of Just So Stories. I still have my copy of the latter. Did I ever think when reading that book as a child that I would one day be able to visit the house where the book was penned? I did not.
Buffalo, New York, was the town we would always drive through to get to Canada. We rarely even stopped for lunch, knowing that once we got across the border, Niagara-on-the-Lake and the Niagara Wine Trail with its many wineries and good food, was less than an hour away.
This last week, the catalyst to not only stop in Buffalo, but stay a few days and explore everything the city had to offer, was because of a special Frank Lloyd Wright exhibition at the Martin House.
It was wonderful to be back in the car again. And our first road trip since our visit to New Hampshire and Maine last September! We got a late start because of a sump pump and a dehumidifier that were both misbehaving in the Red House. We almost made it to the Thruway when Lynn thought he might want to triple check that he had turned everything off. So, we drove back home and to insure a “better safe than sorry” philosophy, he simply unplugged the offending basement appliances.
Charlie the Butcher’s Kitchen
Have you ever had a “beef on weck?” We had stopped many years ago at Schwabl’s in West Seneca (about 10 minutes from Buffalo) to eat their famous hand-carved roast beef on a weck roll. If you don’t know what a weck is, well, it’s like a Kaiser roll but with salt and caraway sprinkled on top. (It’s also short for “kummelweck”; Kümmel means caraway in German.) Side note: I wrote about how amusing some German words are in my last Substack short story, “Dill with a Capital D” and Kümmel was mentioned in the story if you’d like to read it.
We walked into this particular Charlie the Butcher location (there are now several) and ordered two beefs on weck and split an order of onion rings. I slathered on a generous dollop of horseradish as well as mustard on mine, and yes, it was delicious.
Richardson Olmsted Campus
After lunch we headed over to the Richardson Olmsted Campus and discovered the Lipsey Architecture Center on the lower floor of the Richardson Hotel. The Center did a wonderful job of highlighting many of the historically important buildings in Buffalo which suddenly gave us that much more to see over the next few days. The campus, which opened in 1880, was once the Buffalo State Asylum for the Insane. Designed by Henry Hobson Richardson (hence the current name), as well as the landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted (who also designed New York City’s Central Park), it is an astonishing complex. Many of the buildings are in ruin and if you walk around the grounds, the ones still standing kind of give off a Jack Nicholson’s One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest vibe. Much of the complex fell into disrepair in 1974, but luckily the property was saved from the wrecking ball and is now owned by a private developer. Here are a couple of photographs.
Wright Designed a Boathouse?
We have frequently driven on I-190 heading either towards Niagara Falls or the Peace Bridge when traveling to Toronto. Somehow, we missed the fact that Frank Lloyd Wright had designed a boathouse in 1905 which, however, wasn’t built until 2007. (The building is practically impossible to see from the highway even if you are leaning out of a car.) It reflects many Wright details (small square windows and a flat roof) and is now managed by a rowing club. Apparently, it can also be rented out for weddings, etc.
Then, Louis Sullivan & Dankmar Adler
Thanks again to the very thorough timeline of important Buffalo buildings at the Lipsey Architecture Center, we discovered that the Guaranty Building, designed by the aforementioned gentlemen, had been saved from the wrecking ball (yeah!), and was most recently renovated in 2008.
Currently owned by the law firm Hodgson Russ LLP, there is a wonderful (and free) exhibition in the lobby that details the history of the building when it was built in the late 1890’s. At the time it was the tallest building in Buffalo. What was really cool about this building is that it’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen. There are many terra cotta blocks, circular windows on the top floor of the building that let in light, and numerous decorative features that hide the steel-frame construction.
A Drive-By of Two Other FLW Houses
We have been on other Frank Lloyd Wright house tours where people simply show up and try to finagle their way into the house. Or they pretend they were lost or late, and on one tour we were on, the couple was bold enough to park their car in the driveway! I’m very sensitive to people who are lucky enough to own Frank Lloyd Wright houses. I also have to assume they don’t want people photographing their properties or banging on their doors. Therefore, we did a quick drive-by of two other FLW houses near the sprawling Delaware Park which though I briefly photographed, I will not share. I will say that the houses were on the smaller side, but I think it might be kind of fun to live in one of his houses at least for a while.
Dinner – Bacchus Wine Bar
After checking into the hotel (Holiday Inn had the cheapest mid-week rate we could find in Buffalo), we headed for dinner. We hadn’t been out to dinner since Christmas (really!), so I was looking forward to having someone cook for me. I won’t go into how much it pains me to look at restaurant menu prices these days, but I do understand the struggles many restaurants are facing to simply stay afloat what with surging food costs and an ongoing labor shortage. However, if you are billing yourself as a “wine bar,” it would be nice to have a wine list that doesn’t make you crazy when you look at the mark-up. While I did find a bottle that wasn’t outrageous and it was drinkable, I was annoyed at having to spend that much time reading a menu to find something we could afford. That said, the food was very good. I hadn’t had foie gras in a long time and Bacchus’ version was delicious. (Yes, that’s a waffle cradling the duck liver. I’m not a big fan of waffles, but it did in fact pull the dish together.) They were also running a halibut special that night with an asparagus risotto that I couldn’t refuse. We skipped dessert, finished the wine, and walked around the area afterwards.
Did you know that Buffalo had a tram? Neither did I. It reminded me of Europe. (I think they actually call it a Light Rail.) And that there are so many interesting buildings to see? I didn’t either. (I did read that at one time Buffalo was considered to be second only to Chicago in its collection of architecturally significant buildings.)
Day Two
In the “old” days we would avoid hotel breakfasts like the plague. Today, with the cost of a bagel sandwich (egg/cheese/bacon) pushing $10, plus a cup of coffee another $3, I’m always looking for a hotel that includes some sort of breakfast with the rate. It wasn’t the worse breakfast we ever had. They had run out of anything that resembled bread by the time we got downstairs, but they had loads of cheese omelets and something that was pretending to be a miniature cinnamon bun. Neither killed us.
Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural Site
We had time before we could get into see the Frank Lloyd Wright exhibit, so we decided to visit the Ansley Wilcox House, also known as the Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural Site. Anyone ever wonder what the Pan-American Exposition was like? Well, I didn’t, but I now know a bunch of fun facts about what was happening back in 1901! There were parades! And music! And rides! There were even commemorative stamps issued! It was also where President William McKinley was shot. Theodore Roosevelt (VP at the time and vacationing up in the Adirondacks) had to high tail it to Buffalo to take the oath of office. Not an easy task in 1901 since this journey involved a wagon, a horse, and finally, a train. According to our tour guide (this is a National Park Service site), Roosevelt was standing right where the small round table is in the photo below when he was sworn in. Again, this was a house that was slated for demolition in the 1960’s, but a group of people got together to save it which is how it’s now a national historic site.
Finally, The Imperial Hotel At 100
Titled “Thought Built,” the show on view at the Barton House (as part of the Martin House complex), celebrates the short legacy of the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo, Japan. The exhibition succinctly detailed Wright’s creativity and sheer determination to be awarded the commission of the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo, Japan. After three years of sketching possible designs (1913), Wright was finally awarded the project in 1916. It took another seven years for the hotel to be built and while the hotel officially opened on September 1, 1923, it was also the very same day that a massive earthquake destroyed much of the capital as well as Yokohama. While the hotel managed to survive the earthquake with minimal damage (due to the way it was designed), by 1968 the hotel was demolished to make room for a high-rise.
Every time I see a Frank Lloyd Wright house, I discover something new. This time around it was learning of Wright’s love for Japanese woodblock prints and how he especially liked to bring back small gifts from Japan for many of his clients.
If you haven’t seen any photographs or renderings of the Imperial Hotel, I strongly encourage you to research it. The hotel complex is really amazing. Unfortunately, we weren’t allowed to take any photographs in the exhibit, but I did manage to get a photograph of the conservatory with a full-size replica of the Winged Victory of Samothrace. (I looked up who/what and why this sculpture is famous and discovered that the original has been at the Louvre since 1884.) We had visited the Martin House years ago, but it was nice to see it again.
When in Buffalo You Gotta Have Wings!
We thought about going to the famous Anchor Bar for wings, but since they’ve become a chain (12 locations and counting apparently), we decided to give our dollars to a more local establishment that specialized in burgers and wings. Were the wings good? Yep! How good? So good that we ate them all before I remembered I didn’t take a picture. We also sat outside, which was lovely, since the rain that had been forecast for the entire week never materialized. We drank a couple of beers and got extremely messy with the wings and a side order of fries. (Allen Burger Venture is the name of the establishment if anyone is interested.)
The Future of Parking
Going to segue here and talk about parking a bit. And apps. I love apps. And I love finding a parking spot right near where I want to be. What I don’t like is having to feed a parking meter three blocks away from where I am parking. And then having to go back to my car to put a flimsy piece of paper on the dashboard to show whoever is checking that I paid to park. If it’s windy the day you are doing this particular maneuver, all I can say is make sure that the little piece of paper you are probably clutching in one hand doesn’t fly out the window. (This happened to us once when we were in lower Manhattan and all I can say is “Ugh.”)
Buffalo has a system where you download their parking app, they charge your credit card, and when you are ready to park, you find out what zone you are in by looking at some of the street signs. Then you indicate on the app how long you want to park at that particular spot. At first, I was a little bit weirded out by this new gizmo (for me), but afterwards I thought it was brilliant. You can also add time via the app so no more running back to a car or feeding a meter!
Niagara Falls Next
I know it’s touristy, but I love going there! It’s not like we haven’t been to Niagara Falls before, we have. It’s just that I love seeing waterfalls and I justified going back up to the falls because I’m doing research for a new book. Also, Niagara Falls is less than 30 minutes from Buffalo and if you have the Empire Pass like we do, you can get into the state park for free.
The last time we had been to the falls it was very crowded. This particular Thursday in May it wasn’t too crowded, and we asked someone to take a photograph of us so we could compare it to the shot we took seven years ago! (Apparently, my hair was a different color then.) But I noticed that we were standing in nearly the same spot as the last time! (See the skyscrapers on the Canadian side?) Also, since 2017, the park service has changed the guardrails and added coin-operated binoculars.
After seeing the falls, taking some photographs, and even paying $1.25 each to walk onto the Observation Deck, as well as down to “Crow’s Nest,” (we didn’t see any crows just people), we drove back to Buffalo.
Buffalo AKG Art Museum
Like the rest of the sites to see in Buffalo, we had never been to this museum. I was disappointed in how few people were visiting given that it was their late night (open until 8 p.m.!) But we walked through the galleries and admired the collection, and most importantly, the building. They’ve also built a terrific addition to the museum with ample light and walkways to make the visit enjoyable.
Here’s a money saving tip if you like to visit as many museums as we do. If you purchase a museum membership at a sustaining level or higher, you’ll usually get into a host of other museums for free if they are part of NARM (National American Reciprocal Museum Association). I shopped around for the cheapest sustaining membership I could find. And, now ironically, because we are members of the Adirondack Experience, The Museum on Blue Mountain Lake, people think we live in the Adirondacks. Which suits me just fine.
The Edward Hotel and Hutch’s for Dinner
Normally, I choose a hotel based on its proximity to where I want to eat dinner. The restaurant was Hutch’s. The boutique hotel, The Edward, was a mere five-minute walk away, so that’s where we stayed our second night. (I generally try to avoid driving after dinner if there are cocktails and wine involved.)
A few years ago, we experienced our very first contact-free check-in when we were traveling around Cape Cod. While I originally thought it was because of the pandemic, I’m finding that more and more hotels are adopting this method of getting into your room because it saves on labor costs. I realize this will probably be the wave of the future and eventually I will get used to someone texting me a code to the front door of the hotel as well as the room. The upside is you don’t have to see or talk to anyone. The downside is that if there’s a problem with the room, it may be impossible to fix. The Edward was reasonably priced, clean and very quiet. It also had on-site parking, which strangely the Holiday Inn we stayed at did not. If I stay there again though I would spend the extra $20 to upgrade to a suite because the room we chose (The Madison) was small. And one side of the bed was pushed against the wall. Guess which side of the bed was mine? Not the good side.
When we walked into Hutch’s, the place was bustling with activity. The menu was inventive, and the wine list was impressive in both its range of bottles as well as price points. Could we get three appetizers and just split an entree? Absolutely. There were oysters, then escargot, and because they had a soft-shell crab special, we had that too. We split a steak (it was very expensive), but they carved it perfectly for us to share. And yes, we even had a sticky toffee pudding for dessert!
Let me just mention that I have lost count of how many times I have to ask a server for a soup spoon or large serving spoon so that if we are splitting a dish, I can be ladylike about it. The fact that our server dropped a big spoon (and tongs!) at our table without even being asked, well, it just notched up the whole dining experience for me.
No Boat Ride, Alternate Plans – Day Three
Right before we had left for dinner the night before, I had gotten a phone call from someone at the boat company we had booked a tour with. Apparently, we were the only ones who had signed up for a 12:30 tour of the Buffalo River and she wanted to know if she could switch us to a later tour that day. Since there were a few other things in Buffalo that we still wanted to see, and I didn’t want to get home super late, we declined. Luckily, she was kind enough to refund our money.
That said, now with our morning free, we drove down to see “Silo City.” We didn’t get really close to any of these massive structures, but it was impressive to see many of these big grain elevators still standing.
Afterwards, we went on the hunt to find where the Larkin Building used to be. Designed for the Larkin Soap Company by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1903, at the time it was described as one of the largest office buildings in the world used by a single firm. And because the building was so unique, even in 1908, the company was giving tours to over 50,000 people a year. Unfortunately, in 1945 the property was foreclosed on for back taxes and by 1950 the entire building was demolished. Many architectural historians describe this destruction as “the most significant loss of an architectural icon in the history of North America.”
After the building was torn down, the only indication that the Larkin was ever there is a commemorative sign and a brick pillar at one end. (The site was supposed to be a truck stop but now it’s just a parking lot.)
It seems that the general theme of this trip has been to gaze at historical plaques where buildings used to be and marvel at the ones that somehow were saved.
We had now run out of things to do in Buffalo. It was still too early to head home (really, barely noon), so we thought we’d drive further west to visit a couple of lighthouses on Lake Erie that I had always wanted to see. So we did – Dunkirk and Barcelona. Which do you think I liked better?
