Be careful of the wishes on your bucket list since sometimes it turns out better than you anticipated! Such was the case at L’Auberge Provencale in Boyce, Virginia. It was Lynn’s birthday, and I hadn’t mentioned this particular inn to him before and I thought it would be a nice surprise. So, I booked a room and made dinner reservations. However, one small pet peeve that I noticed other inns are doing these days is making you choose what you want for breakfast right when you check in. I know this makes their life easier, but I found it annoying. Can we just live in the moment and not rush the event?
That said, we had a lovely room. We also had ice in the room that was waiting for us (a nice surprise unlike our hotel in D.C), so we made ourselves a cocktail, and went to sit outside in the garden. The inn is very pretty and so is the garden. Not so lovely is the sound of traffic – trucks, motorcycles, and cars all whizzing by. Why did I think L’Auberge would be in the country? And isolated? And hence, quiet? It wasn’t. Actually, it reminded me of being at home because our street is noisy too. Still, isn’t the main building charming? I think so.
Dinner
It was a warm evening, and everyone (minus one table) was eating outside. It was a little bit more casual sitting outside than I would have liked (we had both dressed up), but whatever. We were there to eat, and our server(s) were extremely friendly and guided me through the menu. When I asked if the chef could make me something that was on the tasting menu but not on the regular menu (which I never do but there was a lamb special on the tasting menu that sounded delicious), he was able to accommodate my request.
But first, cocktails and an amuse bouche of salmon tartare. Then oysters and a lovely, decorated duck liver pate. And wine, too! All brought out in the correct order. I mean, it wasn’t that difficult to do, right?
Then the lamb (Lynn had steak) sorry, mine was better and a curious green thing that I couldn’t quite figure out what it was. It looked like a green button until I finally asked at the end of the meal. Sorry, I knew it was a vegetable, but it just didn’t taste like ZUCCHINI! And since we’ve been inundated with zucchini from the Red House garden, I think I know what zucchini tastes like.
Finally, we had dessert – a just-okay apricot tart with some vanilla ice cream and we finished our wine.
And here’s the birthday boy. Doesn’t he look good? I think so.
Southern Charm?
When we went back to our room after dinner, I looked up and saw this. A pineapple light fixture? Yep. And then I remembered I never mentioned where the ice machine was in the hotel in D.C. (I don’t know why this ugly thing made me think of the ice in D.C., but it did.) Apparently, the ice was in the same cabinet right by the elevator, except I hadn’t pulled the cabinet door hard enough to open it. Once open, it revealed that there wasn’t an ice machine at all, but bags of ice that had simply been placed on shelves. I’m not sure who thought of that idea but my reaction to that was – this is really stupid.
Anyway, we had a lovely time at L’Auberge and I would recommend it even though it’s very expensive.
P.S. Breakfast the next morning was delicious even if we did have to order it before we had even checked in. I wondered if they made the omelet I ate in this pan. Probably not. What kind of pan is that anyway with such a long handle?????
I’m not referring to the house number. Or, when Frank Lloyd Wright designed it. I’m referring to the fact that the Pope-Leighey house in Alexandria, Virginia, was the 17th Frank Lloyd Wright property we’ve visited since we started this FLW adventure quite a few years ago.
We arrived early enough to visit the neighboring Woodlawn House first and read up a bit about how instrumental Marjorie Leighey was in saving this house from being demolished. Back in the early 1960’s, Robert and Marjorie Leighey learned that their Frank Lloyd Wright home was to be seized through eminent domain since the state of Virginia wanted to build an Interstate right through their property. Kind of inconvenient don’t you think? Luckily, Marjorie Leighey didn’t think that should happen, not so much because she lived there (and obviously would have to move), but because they weren’t just talking about any old ranch house that could simply be torn down or moved. They were talking about a Frank Lloyd Wright designed house! Miss Marjorie decided to meet with preservationists and reporters and wage an all-out letter writing campaign to bring awareness to this dire situtation. Because of this tenacity, her actions inspired the Historic Preservation Act of 1966. While the house was eventually moved, this very important piece of legislature created the National Register of Historic Places, a list of National Historic Landmarks, as well as State Historic Preservation Offices. It would also be the catalyst that would save other historic buildings around the country. Good job Marjorie!
A Small House
This house was by far the smallest FLW structure we’ve ever seen. It had some of the built-in furniture we were used to, but the house seemed more museum-like than others. Here are a few photographs of the living room and a very small bedroom that two of the Leighey boys shared at the time.
Like other Frank Lloyd Wright structures, there were a lot of cut outs that he used to bring in natural light to the space. Perhaps because there wasn’t a lot of money spent by the first family (the Pope’s who built the house; the Leighey’s were the second owners), it seemed less embellished than other FLW properties we’ve seen. Still, the house is functional except for the kitchen.
I mean, really Frank.
Harpers Ferry, West Virginia
After seeing #17, we drove to Harpers Ferry. I had missed the part about it being a recreated, touristy town with a bunch of old buildings and John Brown’s Fort. For some reason, I thought it would be more like Gettysburg, with a big national park you can walk around in or even drive through. It was a Sunday and very warm so there were lots of people walking through the town. There was also NO PARKING, so we drove out of what Lynn called “Colonial Williamsburg 2.0” and went in search of lunch. Luckily, I had researched other places to eat away from the madness in town, which is how we ended up at Snallygasters Cafe & Wine Bar. Luckily, it was in a residential neighborhood with lots of parking right out front, and not only a lovely cafe menu, but a fun wine list and even a small wine store in the back.
Our server, a Columbia grad who volunteered that she had lived in Harlem for many years, told us how she loved living in Harpers Ferry. The reason she volunteered this response was I had asked her a simple question – “What’s it like living here?” Apparently, she was happy to be back home after growing up here.
Lynn and I shared a cheese plate, then we dug into some really good lamb meatballs with a salad. We had some wine and contemplated dessert but decided to just keep moving. We still had some driving to do with a stop to see an architect-designed museum before we checked into our hotel.
The Museum of the Shenandoah Valley
Truthfully, the only reason we stopped was to see the building. Designed by Michael Graves in 2005, it focused on the history of the Shenandoah Valley. The building itself I thought was less inspiring (it looked like a chain hotel). But the museum was having a Frida Kahlo exhibition, so it wasn’t a total waste of time.
I mean, doesn’t this look like a hotel/resort you might have stayed in? Somewhere? Off of an Interstate? I thought so.
Our day of sightseeing was finished, and we were on our way to an Inn. A really, really fancy Inn.
Since the last two nights of dining in Washington were extremely noisy, I was hoping tonight would at least be a little quieter. I had read a lot about The Dabney and the chef, Jeremiah Langhorne. I had already looked at the menu so I kind of knew what my choices were. Described as serving “mid-Atlantic” cuisine, this place is a bit off the beaten path (close to the convention center but tucked away down an alley), but definitely worth a visit. It’s not a cheap date. These days, the mark-up on anything alcohol-related is how anyone who is running a restaurant is probably just breaking even. I get that. Still, once again our cocktails arrived after the first course. And the wine we ordered was not available. I’m assuming it’s because it was one of the cheapest bottles on the menu, so that’s what everyone before us got, too. The sommelier and the wait staff made up for both mistakes. First by offering us a German red that was double the amount we would have paid for the bottle they didn’t have. (Surprisingly good, but I would never have paid that much for a German wine. And I’ve lived in Germany.).
First Course
But let’s move on to the starters. How about duck confit lettuce wraps? Or something called a sugar toad? At first, I thought sugar toads might be frog legs. And I’m not afraid to ask about a dish I have never heard of (or an ingredient). Apparently, sugar toads are a type of local puffer fish. That’s kind of fun, right? So, after the duck, we moved onto the fish (they look like chicken wings!) with a feta and watermelon salad. They were fun to eat, the plating was decent, and finally, we could actually hear each other!
Luckily, I had a view of the kitchen. This meant I was able to watch the crew working and manning the wood-fired oven. I know some people do not like to watch their food being prepared/cooked, but not me. I want to see how they do it!
Here’s a fun shot of Chef Langhorne, very focused for service that Saturday night.
Second Course Plus One
We had both ordered the rockfish that I have to admit was just okay. Besides the portion being small, the fish was actually overcooked. I know cooking fish is tricky but come on guys! Perhaps because I was kind of unhappy with this dish (and expensive to boot), I started to look around – specifically keeping my eye on the pass. I kept seeing something that looked like a burger. I don’t remember seeing a burger on the menu (not that I would have ordered a burger in a Michelin-starred restaurant) but still, there were lots and lots of burgers hitting the pass. I asked our server what was flying out so quickly, and he said, “It’s the catfish sandwich.” A few seconds later he and I decided that I needed to eat one and perhaps because of the cocktail and the wine screw-up he added, “It’s on me.”
Lynn, meanwhile, was already thinking about dessert. I looked at him and thought he had heard the exchange between the server and myself, but apparently, he hadn’t. “We’re getting another course,” I told him. “What are we getting?” he asked. Okay, I guess he heard absolutely NOTHING. So, we sat and sipped our wine and waited for the catfish sandwich. Here it is! And yeah, it was as good as it looked. I know this is just kind of bonkers to eat a fish sandwich after our entrees, but whatever. I love to tell people that we are “professional eaters” and that usually silences them.
Dessert
There was a lot of dessert to choose from. But the people next to us were digging into a cheese plate with figs. I love figs and they seemed to have a lot of figs on that plate. That’s when I thought we should have that too. So, we did. And you know what else our server did before he handed us the bill? He sent over an extra plate of figs just for me since I had mentioned that 1) I loved figs and 2) I really loved the catfish. Thank you!
Did I mention that someone had written a Happy Anniversary card and had left it on our table? I don’t think I did. And this is why, restaurants like The Dabney (even with the so-so rockfish) get awarded Michelin stars.
I have to admit; I was a bit skeptical about a bookstore that did an all-day breakfast too. Was it just going to be like the cafe at Barnes & Nobles with overpriced coffee and muffins? Absolutely not. Kramer’s serves up delicious bagel sandwiches, funky omelets, and has a full bar regardless of what time of day you want a drink. The place was pretty crowded but after we had a really good breakfast, I was happy to see that the bookstore was even more crowded than the restaurant. And people were actually buying books, not just standing there reading them like it was a library! I, too, had to indulge and walked away with four novels (mostly food-related) that I knew purchasing there would be better than throwing more money at Amazon.
Monuments and Then Some
After breakfast and dropping the book(s) back at the hotel, we got back on the metro and got off somewhere near the Smithsonian. Then we walked. First to see the Jefferson Memorial where we convinced yet another tourist to take a picture of us. I had to direct her a couple of times until she got the shot I wanted (sorry!), but eventually, she got it right. Hint: you want to show all the columns at a certain angle, not just ONE column.
After seeing Jefferson and “oohing and aahing” over the beautiful ceiling, we headed over to see Franklin, Eleanor, and MLK Jr. I’m not sure how we had missed these monuments in the past, but we did.
Unlike the Eisenhower Memorial we saw yesterday, at least Eleanor and Franklin had a water feature going. And I loved the different sculptures they had made of Franklin, too. Especially the smaller one where he is in a wheelchair. (I also rewatched Atlantic Crossing recently on Netflix with Kyle MacLachlan and Sofia Helin so I was intrigued by these sculptures.)
After a short walk around Potomac Park, we found the Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial. Facing the Tidal Basin and described by the National Park Service as the “Stone of Hope,” I thought this 30-foot statue of Dr. King was really powerful.
Oysters on The Wharf
We had tickets to get into the Library of Congress later that afternoon but decided to check out The Wharf area and maybe get some oysters for lunch. I had a feeling that The Wharf would be similar to The Seaport in NYC and I was pretty accurate. There were lots of shops, bars, and restaurants. There were also a lot of people walking around. But then I realized it was probably because it was a nice day and you could easily grab something to eat or drink with a view of the water. I’ve also come to accept that many people don’t really like doing the touristy stuff in D.C. anyway, so this is probably where they ended up instead. (Or, maybe they just actually live here?)
We stopped at Rappahannock Oyster Bar (obviously to eat some oysters), but we also decided to split a shrimp and fried oyster Po’ Boy sandwich. While the sandwich had the potential to be good with all the fresh fish around us, unfortunately, it was dry. I think they just forget to put the rémoulade sauce on. Still, look at these amazing oysters!
The Library of Congress
Even with tickets we waited in a very long line. In the sun. I didn’t realize this place was so popular! But once inside, how had I missed knowing that the building was so ornate? And gorgeous! Obviously, I deserve an “F” for not doing any research on the building before we visited, so we had quite a bit to look at. You can’t get into the main reading room without a special ID card, but we climbed the stairs and got a view of the reading room behind a glass partition.
The ceiling, all the artwork, columns, staircases, and paintings were just amazing. Less amazing were the over-anxious security guards who were constantly yelling at the visitors not to stand and taking selfies on the stairs. I got it, but a lot of people didn’t. Afterwards, we walked over to the Capital. Then we made our way over to visit the Folger Shakespeare Library.
Another Library – Shakespeare
Unfortunately, the one room I wanted to see (the wood-paneled library) was not open that day because there was some sort of musical rehearsal going on in the space. See the books behind the glass? We did briefly walk through the exhibit on Shakespeare (not my favorite author by the way) and decided to just sit in the big room next to the library where everyone else seemed to have congregated as well. Since they had a cafe and it was the afternoon, I thought a European type of break would be appropriate. Well, we didn’t have coffee, but we did have some wine and then we shared a messy, but delicious, strawberry and rhubarb tart. And then we just sat for a while looking at the decorative plaster ceiling. It was quite lovely actually. And I’m really glad that we got to see everything that was on our agenda that day. We still had dinner to look forward to, and tomorrow we’re up early, leaving D.C., and heading to Virginia.
We weren’t originally going to go to D.C., or travel anywhere at all, but it was a milestone birthday for Lynn (which you simply can’t ignore) and our anniversary, too. (He claims you can, but I have to make exceptions.) Originally, I had planned a trip back to Nova Scotia. We hadn’t been to Halifax in 36 years, and I really like visiting Canada. What I wasn’t too keen about was the amount of driving (nearly 14 hours!) that it would take each way. Plus, I suddenly found myself employed again (albeit part-time) after not being so in over three years and I didn’t want to suddenly disappear for a couple of weeks. Hence a five-day road trip to D.C.
Last time we were there was 2019. Obviously, much has changed. We had been reading about how D.C. isn’t a cool place to go these days. The National Guard had been deployed, crime was on the uptick, and generally there seemed to be pervasive uneasiness about being there. In the three days we were in D.C., we saw less than a dozen guardsmen/women (most stationed around the Metro stops) and didn’t find walking around the capital unpleasant at all.
Our trip this time was to see sites we hadn’t seen before which we didn’t think was even possible. But new memorials have been built, museums opened, and there were some things we had simply missed. This time, we learned how to use the Metro since we were staying up near Dupont Circle and didn’t want to waste time walking long distances. We’ve traveled on quite a few metro lines in big cities, but I have to say that I think D.C.’s is not only the cleanest, but architecturally the most interesting. I mean look at this roof!
We had a bit of a snag driving into D.C., since suddenly our GPS went out and even though we had a general idea of where the hotel was, we couldn’t quite get there. Fun fact: even if we had a map (you know as in a paper map that you unfold), I still think we might have had an issue. We found the hotel, we checked in, we waited for our car to be parked and then Lynn proceeded to kill all the bugs that he found on the hotel room balcony. (He wouldn’t do well visiting a warm-weather, bug-infested locale.) It’s okay to laugh, it was pretty amusing.
We also went on the search for an ice machine. Asking the person manning the front desk elicited a shrug, followed by a description of it being in a cabinet. By the elevator. We found the cabinet and opened one door where we found something that looked like someone had taken the door off a dishwasher. There were a bunch of wires, tubes and something that looked like a filter. This turned out to be a fancy water system that gave you both spring and sparkling water. Important, I guess, if you were waiting for the elevator and needed something bubbly. But still, no clue as to where the ice machine was located. We closed the door and decided to just have a cocktail at the restaurant instead.
Ceviche for Dinner
Ever have Peruvian food? We haven’t. Apparently, it’s very popular, since there were no less than six restaurants in the area, but I chose the one closest to the hotel. Pisco y Nazca Ceviche Gastrobar was a lot of fun. It was also very loud. Luckily, we focused our attention on the food rather than trying to have a conversation with each other. I love fish but have to confess I haven’t had many opportunities to eat ceviche! Well, Pisco’s was exceptional. The yam was especially tasty and the shrimp and scallops in the dish were delicious. We also had croquettes (filled with shredded chicken and potato), cubes of steak, and grilled octopus that looked lovely but was a tad too chewy.
The National Museum of African American History and Culture
Designer David Adjaye and head architect Philip Freelon won a design competition in 2009 for this museum. The last time we had visited D.C., we didn’t have time to go inside. This time, I booked tickets weeks ahead of our visit since I know it’s a popular museum. Still, we had time to kill that morning, which meant Lynn and I got to walk around the National Mall for a bit. It was a gorgeous blue-sky day, so I was able to take a lot of pictures. And even bothered another tourist to take a photograph of us!
But then finally we went into the museum. If you visit, plan on spending a lot of time there. We were there for almost three hours, and we could have easily stayed another two. Photography is not allowed in the exhibits, but I did take some cool pictures of the staircase and the latticework which looks like lace that surrounds the building.
Jaleo
After the museum, we walked down to Jaleo and had a late lunch. We hadn’t been there in years, but respect José Andrés’ work for World Central Kitchen. Plus, who else is still doing four-course lunches for $28? I can’t think of anyone.
Dwight D.
After lunch, we headed over to see the Eisenhower Memorial since the last time we were here it was being built. Hmmm, well, totally underwhelming and actually boring. Since Frank Gehry was the “starchitect” associated with this project, I was surprised. But now I also understand why this project took so long to get off the ground – 20 plus years! Apparently, there was a lot of kick back from the family over the design and I understand why. I wouldn’t have approved this lame concept either. (There are other elements to this memorial but I’m just posting this one photograph.)
Le Diplomate for Dinner
From our hotel near Dupont Circle, we walked up to Le Diplomate. We had been to the restaurant before and even then, it was crowded. Tonight, the decibel level was off the charts. (Two nights in a row, I thought, of noise? What’s going on here?) We also got the smallest, shittiest table by the door. It was so loud that we just looked at each other and unfortunately, had to listen to the people next to us practically yell at each other in order to speak. They seemed to think this was a perfectly acceptable way to talk to each other, but by the end of the evening I had a headache.
We hadn’t had an issue with service before at this restaurant, and though our waiter was friendly, I think the entire staff was just overwhelmed with the crowd. Case in point: we already had our appetizers (escargots and a salmon tartare) before we were served cocktails. Our wine was also brought out to us after the appetizers but still no cocktails! Sigh. By the time our veal scallops (which were really good) with a mushroom sauce was brought to us, all had been corrected. But still, it’s expensive to eat out these days and when you’re paying that much money, it really does have to be a nearly flawless experience!
I’ll leave you with this: some pretty darn good profiteroles.
Stopping overnight in the Catskills to break up a long drive to D.C. wasn’t originally planned, but sometimes all I need is to find one restaurant that sparks my curiosity. Most people know that I read restaurant menus like other people read novels. I’m always on the lookout for something I can’t or don’t like to make at home. I also love to see items that show the chef’s creativity, or something that I haven’t seen on a menu in a long time.
Cue: La Cigogne, right on Main Street in Narrowsburg, NY. Even though the restaurant clearly states where it is located on their website (lower level), we missed that part and spent a while trying to find them. We saw what looked like a side entrance and a view of the Delaware River and then realized that the main entrance to the restaurant was through a building with a few retail stores. The town of Narrowsburg is small, but it does have a couple of antique shops, a few other places to eat, including a brewery and a cafe. So, there’s stuff to do, but most places when we got there on a Wednesday afternoon were closed. So, we decided to check into our hotel, The Darby.
The Darby
The Darby doesn’t get great reviews. Why? I’m not sure, it just seems like everyone has an issue these days. Some people complained it was dirty. (It wasn’t.) Others complained there wasn’t anyone around. (Actually, my idea of a perfect stay.) Really, the list of why one shouldn’t stay there was endless. Since we were staying mid-week and got a really good rate for a room, I thought how bad could it be?
It wasn’t bad at all. At one point it had been a nursing home which meant that the hallways were wider than normal, as were the bathrooms (for wheelchairs). I thought this was a brilliant idea for re-purposing a space rather than tearing it down and building something new. Located right across the bridge from Narrowsburg, NY, it was a mere 2-minute drive to the restaurant. (The Darby’s address is actually Beach Lake, PA, which sounds made-up but apparently is correct.) Our room key was left on a counter in the lobby with a note and an arrow pointing to go “left.” But first we looked around. Funky tables and chairs, a bar area that is open on the weekends, a fire pit and seating areas outside, really made me question the bad reviews.
In the hunt for an ice machine (our only real issue), we found a room with a pool table and a chair that Lynn liked so much I thought he might just spend the evening sitting on it. There is one thing missing in the rooms though that I didn’t even notice until Lynn pointed it out to me. (Hint: NO TV!) After a quick shower (and listening to some tunes on my phone in lieu of television noise), we got in the car and drove back to town.
A Little Bit of France
Not only is La Cigogne a gorgeously designed restaurant, but the menu made me very homesick. Although billed as featuring Alsatian specialties, it had many of the dishes I grew up eating in Munich. Escargots? Tartes Flambés? Spätzle? They also had a schnitzel on the menu that we opted not to get only because we make it so often at home. But here are a few pictures of our delicious dinner. And yes, those are peaches on our Tartes Flambés which I loved!
We got to speak to Damien, the owner, after we had eaten and got to hear about the fall/winter menu. He is planning on what I like to call “tummy-warming” dishes when it’s freezing outside. You know things like cassoulet and choucroute and a coq au vin which he has on the menu now. The space is very comfortable, the bar was busy but not too loud, and with a wallet-friendly beverage menu (including some great French wines), the restaurant just oozes romance. Did I mention the jazzy playlist? Once again, this is the type of place that I wish we had near us, or at least closer than a three-hour drive. But we don’t.
Back at The Darby, we decided to play some pool. Lynn has played pool before. If I have, I don’t remember, so let’s just say that at least I didn’t rip the green felt top!
When I looked at the last time I had written a travel story for Let’s Go, it was October 2024! The stay in Narrowsburg was the start of our trip to Washington, D.C., and Virginia, so there are a few more stories to be written. Going forward, I’m hoping we’ll be able to do a bit more traveling in 2026, even if it’s just for long weekends.
On that note, I find my inbox loaded with articles on how to find calmness in your daily life. I usually manage to achieve both peace and quiet by having a good meal, some wine, and a view. Here’s the view from La Cigogne. Peaceful and calm, right? I think so.
After the tropical storm in Wilmington, we finally checked out of the hotel from hell (read my last blog about this if you need a laugh) and grabbed a quick breakfast down the block. Called “The Basics,” this place was anything but, offering a variety of breakfast dishes including a biscuit that was piled with smoked pork, eggs and cheese. It was so incredibly big that I was afraid I wouldn’t be able to finish it. But I did. Lynn ordered a BLT egg sandwich that came with what was described as a “potato cake,” but actually looked like a giant arancini (fried rice ball for those who don’t know). I had to sneak a couple of bites of that one and it was good.
Virginia and Real Peanuts
We broke up the drive to Richmond by stopping at the Good Earth Peanut Company in Skippers, VA. I was expecting the shack-like look of their establishment. I wasn’t expecting the high-end peanuts that they produce. I’m also not afraid to admit that I hated peanuts growing up – any kind of peanut including peanut butter. It’s only been in the last 15 years or so that I can even eat a peanut as well as peanut sauce in most Thai or Asian dishes. Bizarrely, I do like peanut butter cookies (especially with chocolate chips), but still cannot eat a PB & J. I just think it’s gross. Anyway, if you’re doing a road trip and end up on I-95 and need a break, this is a fun place to stop and pick up a can of peanuts. We bought the sea salt variety.
The American Civil War Museum – Tredegar
Back in 2021, we barely had time to see the Edgar Allan Poe house/museum, when our trip got caught short. We didn’t even know the American Civil War Museum existed so decided to pay it a visit this time. Described on their website as exploring the Civil War from three different perspectives: North, South and African American, I thought the exhibitions were interesting and the building even more so.
Built on the ruins of the Tredegar Ironworks Central Foundry, it’s located on the James River waterfront. I thought the design of this building was fantastic and I loved how someone managed to build a modern building around the ruins. Take a look at the existing brick walls inside the museum which I thought was really cool.
After the museum, we spotted a large statue up on a hill and made our way there to take a look at the Virginia War Memorial.
Another Hilton, then Dinner & Breakfast!
This Hilton was like night and day. Converted from an old department store, the hotel was large and still had a certain elegance to it. The rooms were renovated, and I was afraid the sheer size of the hotel would lead to noise issues during our stay, but we heard no one.
We ended up going to Lillie Pearl for dinner which is the restaurant we never made it to on our last visit. When we walked in on a Tuesday night and the restaurant was packed, I inquired from our server if it was always like this on Tuesday’s. His eyes got very big, and he looked at me and said, “I don’t even know where all these people came from.”
That said, it was loud and party-like and we were lucky they held our table for us. However, I guess I was expecting a little more finesse from the kitchen. I thought the fried chicken was solid, but a tad dry, and the shrimp and grits were just okay. Still, I liked the atmosphere and while we definitely did NOT need dessert, I hadn’t had a single peach anything on this trip (yet). So, we ordered a deconstructed peach bread pudding which was gooey and good, but didn’t taste much like peaches.
Perly’s – It’s where you want to be
I hadn’t thought much about going to a Jewish restaurant/deli for breakfast the next morning, but when I stumbled upon Perly’s down the street from our hotel and looked at their menu, my reaction was WOW.
Basically, anything you could think of that would fit under the category “comfort food” was there to be had. Their website states that they open at 9 a.m., so, we got there shortly afterwards. I think, however, the locals know that’s not the real time they open, since a lot of people were already sitting and eating.
Care to have a plate called “The Schnorrer”? Complete with your choice of eggs, fish or meat, bread or bagel, with a potato latke, applesauce and chive sour cream? Don’t mind if I do. Lynn, who loves big breakfasts more than I do, decided he would simply get an egg sandwich. I didn’t question this but made a very big deal about eating my “schnorrer” with extra gusto.
And no, I didn’t fall asleep after such a heavy repast. We just got in the car (after getting a $20 parking ticket in Richmond because the Passport app that everyone is now using failed me) and drove towards Fenwick Island.
The Beach and Fenwick Island
We stayed in a newer Hilton a block from the beach. We had a large room and even a balcony where you can hear the waves but not see them since we were about a block back from the ocean.
I loved the beaches in Delaware. Actually, I loved Delaware so much that if the Lotto Goddess ever blessed me with some really decent winnings, I would buy a second house there. I’ve been thinking about a second house because I miss having someplace else to go since I get bored being in the same place all the time. But if you’ve read my stories, you probably already know that.
Best Meal of the Trip
There I said it and you don’t even know which restaurant I’m referring to. The restaurant is called Our Harvest, and they bring wood-fired cooking to a whole new level. There’s a large bar area, but we sat in the dining room across from the open kitchen, and just watched plate after plate of wonderful things being brought out. It’s a tapas-style menu so while it might sound like we ordered a lot of dishes, most of the plates were a few bites. Lynn and I both like trying lots of different things when we eat out, so it was a lot of fun. Plus, they have an outstanding wine list.
In no particular order, but all were worthy, I share with you: grilled octopus, swordfish, bison short ribs, lamb merguez meatballs (the only weak link in the line-up I thought), and then drum roll please – a wooden board filled with not one, but five grilled peaches on top of blueberry-flavored mascarpone with more blueberries scattered on top. The peaches alone were probably the best single thing I’ve eaten in my entire life. And I’ve eaten many, many outstanding dishes.
Bethany, Rehoboth Beach, and Lewes
Before we moved permanently to the Red House, we drove down to Delaware and spent some time in Rehoboth Beach. I had forgotten somehow that when our kids were little, we’d rent a house (on stilts) and enjoy a week at the beach. Now I’m sorry to report that summer rentals have skyrocketed in price and a rental that we might have paid $600/week for is likely to set you back closer to $4,000. I always say to Lynn, “I’m glad we did things a long time ago when everything was a lot cheaper.”
We walked both boardwalks, took some pictures, went into a couple of t-shirt shops looking for a particular t-shirt we can never find, and decided to drive into Lewes. We had maybe visited Lewes once before when we took the ferry over from Cape May, but neither of us remembered it.
We also visited the Zwaanendael Museum in town which looks exactly like a building you’d find in the Netherlands because it was modeled after one. Once again, I found myself quizzing the people who worked there (transplants) about how they liked their newly adopted state. Delaware is the first state to ratify the constitution, and Lewes, therefore is the first town. If you are wondering how Lewes is pronounced, it’s Lewis, as in Jerry Lewis. I had been saying “Loos” all these years which I was told was wrong.
The weather also cooperated enough for us to ditch plans to have lunch at a restaurant and just get a sandwich and take it down to the beach. Was it fortuitous that we happened to find a really good Italian deli in downtown Lewes? That would make eggplant parm sandwiches to go? And even sell you big chunks of Parmesan cheese? (This is a big deal for us since we have to travel over 70 miles where we live now to find an Italian deli with the aforementioned items.)
So, we sat on the beach sharing the sandwich and listening to the waves hit the sand.
Close Runner-Up for Dinner that Night
While we loved Our Harvest, we really liked One Coastal, too. The food was expertly prepared, and the composition of the plates was stunning. I just had a problem with the space. It was small and kind of non-descript, and while we could have opted to eat outside, that would have put us basically in the parking lot watching cars go by on Coastal Highway Route 1.
Still, I’d definitely pay a return visit to sample things like chicken and biscuits, which was really a tongue-in-cheek dish since the chicken in question was a liver pâté. When it was spread out on the plate, it looked like wet sand which made it fun to eat. The fresh salad and the figs were also insanely good.
Tons of chefs do tuna crudo and pair it with watermelon. I realized then that there’s lots of fresh tuna off the coast of Delaware which is why this dish tasted just so much better than any other rendition I’ve had. I also had to inquire what those tiny round green balls were that you see on the plate and was enlightened to learn they are “cucamelons” aka Mexican miniature watermelons. They were fun to eat, but truthfully, didn’t have much taste.
We also shared a crab aguachile in a spicy pepper broth that was delicious. Followed by a cucumber salad with smoked trout roe and fresh dill that was just okay.
Still, after those small plates, we wanted more tuna. So, we split an entree of seared tuna with a salad that was so pretty, I just had to look at it for a bit.
And Then…
In the morning, we braced ourselves for a 7-hour drive home. But not before visiting one of the WWII Observation Towers, taking a couple of photographs, as well as trying to memorize the view as much as possible until we can return. Which I hope will be very, very soon.
Even as we told ourselves “It’s only water,” Tropical Cyclone Eight was powerful. There was A LOT OF WATER in Wilmington and the surrounding area during our 48-hour sojourn. Our sneakers were wet for nearly three days after the storm, and we had a bag of wet clothes that we carried around for five days until we got home. Note to self: bring extra sneakers during hurricane season!
The Hotel Fiasco
But first I need to talk about the hotel we stayed in. It was a Hilton and usually we don’t have a problem with the Hilton chain. However, the fact that the hotel was texting me at 8:28 a.m. before we had even checked into the hotel begging me to share my experience of staying there, kind of pissed me off. Roughly three hours later (11:45 a.m.), I received another text asking me how my stay was going so far. Since we still hadn’t checked into the hotel yet, I decided this wasn’t a good sign.
The Hotel Ballast looked nice from the outside, had ample parking, and they had a restaurant, a bar, and not one, but two young men who were there simply to valet your car. Since I hadn’t seen a valet since before COVID, this I thought was a sign of a hotel trying really hard to up the guest experience. (I was wrong.)
When we checked into our room, we had a glimpse of the Cape Fear River, and the U.S.S. North Carolina that we planned to visit before we left the area. It also took us nearly 10 minutes to find the switch that opened the blinds so we could see the aforementioned view.
Then I looked around the room and realized we didn’t have a single piece of furniture or luggage rack to put our suitcases on. At this age, I’m definitely not scrouging around on the floor when I need some underwear, so I went out into the hallway and found a housekeeper.
Between google translate and a co-worker, she was able to deduce that a luggage rack was needed and apparently gave me one from someone else’s room. (Sorry, whoever got that room next.) Lynn and I thought about going out for a walk and prior to leaving, I went to the bathroom. After I washed my hands, I realized that the sink was clogged. I called the front desk and after a few minutes I was told I could move to another room. But I had to go down to get the key. No one was bringing it up to me, nor was there any offer of help with our luggage.
So, we packed up the few things we had already unpacked, and I went down to the front desk to get the new key. Luckily, our new room was on the same floor, so it wasn’t a total hassle but an inconvenience. We also had the foresight to take the luggage rack with us, and low and behold, the new room already had a luggage rack, so now we had two. Which is the exact amount of luggage racks I expect to find in a room anyway. Since we had figured out how to open the blinds in the last room, we thought we were in good shape.
Finally, when we went out for our walk (and figured out how to get to the restaurant for dinner), I was feeling a bit angry at Hilton. By the time we got back, the hotel robot had already texted me again (3:34 p.m.) asking how the stay was going. Well, at least this time I had something to complain about. I mentioned us having to switch rooms, our lack of a luggage rack, and not being able to find the switch to open the blinds. I also went onto the Hilton website and realized that they were offering a lower rate with breakfast than what we were paying. Obviously, I thought that needed to be mentioned in my complaint as well. I quickly received a text from the front desk apologizing for the room, and an offer of a $25 food and beverage voucher for our “inconvenience.” This apparently would be at the front desk for me to retrieve when I wanted it. I was also told that a luggage rack would be sent up as well. I decided not to volunteer that at this point we now had two, which in hindsight was a good thing, since the promised luggage rack was never delivered to our room.
Four hours later (7:25 p.m.), we received another text message asking us to text them when we checked out. Did I need to remind them that we had just arrived and were staying two nights? I decided to ignore the rest of the messages until this actually happened.
Dinner at Seabird
At the helm of Seabird in Wilmington, N.C. , are Dean Neff and Lydia Clopton. Chef Neff was named a finalist in this year’s Outstanding Chef category by the James Beard Foundation at their annual awards ceremony. It had been on my list of restaurants to try for a few years so the anticipation on my part was really high.
I expected the food to be good. I didn’t expect the food to be exceptional and the service to be extraordinary. Apparently, other people in Wilmington must think this restaurant is over-the-top good too, since even on a Sunday night the restaurant was packed.
We had oysters to start. And two pieces of cornbread topped with sorghum that were so large and dessert-like that I needed to ask what they were.
The smoked catfish and oyster pie interested me, and I asked our server, Sean (a CIA-trained grad himself), how it was made. Apparently, the pie topping wasn’t your traditional puff pastry, but dough that was made out of gnocchi. This gave the dish a thick crepe-like taste, but I thought it was clever and a fun starter.
Swordfish Schnitzel?
Yes, I knew about the dish. Yes, we were going to order it. Was the hype worthy? Absolutely. Perfectly fried (but not greasy), this is the dish most home cooks aspire to make. If, of course, you live in a coastal area that has access to fish this fresh.
After dinner, we walked back to the hotel and proceeded to get alerts about the tropical storm warning as well as a flood watch. Were we prepared? Other than not having proper footwear, I can say that we were. I mean, the streets look wet but not under water, right?
In the Morning
We woke up to torrential rain. We went downstairs for breakfast clutching the $25 food and beverage voucher I had retrieved the night before. There we were met by a skeleton staff trying to accommodate all the guests whose plans were thwarted because of the storm. There were a lot of people sitting around, looking at their phones, I guess wondering what they should do instead.
We ordered a couple of omelets, really good cheddar grits and English muffins. We had planned to spend the day at Wrightsville Beach, but apparently that wasn’t an option. We listened to the rain hit the glass windows of the hotel and decided to go see a historic mansion instead.
The Bellamy House Museum
Was it underwhelming? Yes. Were we told by the museum staff that they were closing in 45 minutes because of the storm, but we could see the house anyway? Yes. We walked through the rooms and looked at things. And then we tried to get a glimpse of the garden but got soaking wet in the process. I did take quite a few pictures of the kitchen. And I loved the menu for a Christmas dinner circa 1850’s. Probably because our Red House was also built during that time period. But I don’t think I could have made all that food!
Visiting the house and the gardens took less than half an hour and it wasn’t even noon. We looked at the radar and realized that the storm was moving out of the area, so we decided to go to Wrightsville Beach and be on the lookout for flash floods, etc.
Wrightsville Beach
We drove down to the beach and even got out of the car and got pummeled a bit by the wind. There were other idiots who were doing the same thing, so I didn’t feel I was a particularly special idiot. Here’s Lynn trying to not be blown over. And the waves hitting the pier, which I thought was kind of romantic, actually.
After driving up and down looking for things to do on Wrightsville Beach (there wasn’t much in my opinion and I’m glad we didn’t stay there), we decided to get Thai food for lunch. Something hot and spicy after this rainy weather was in order. Luckily, we found a place that was open, and the chicken pad Thai and green curry (also with chicken) were simple and hit the spot with the bad weather we were having.
The U.S.S. North Carolina
I think we were one of four people on the huge battleship that day. We tried not to fall on the decks that were quite slippery as the wind constantly blew all around us. We quickly went inside the ship and navigated the steep stairs. I probably took about 100 pictures and thought about having to cook for nearly 2,300 men on a daily basis. Really, the numbers are staggering regarding the amount of bread that was baked, cakes that were made, and dishes that were consumed. Look at that giant mixer and all the attachments in the locker!
What was particularly interesting touring the ship was that it was its own small town. There was a barber, a butcher, a cobbler, a laundry room, tailor, a post office and a store. Not to mention a dentist, doctor and everything in between. Here are some of my favorite shots from the ship, particularly the shot of the old-fashioned typewriters.
And let’s not forget about the bathrooms. And how there wasn’t an inch of privacy. Maybe it’s different for guys, but maybe not. And what about the bunk beds????
After we navigated getting off the ship and listening to our shoes squeak as we walked, we headed back to the hotel. During lunch we had received an email from the restaurant we had booked for dinner telling us that because of the storm they weren’t going to be open that evening. So, we had to make other plans. Since it was also a Monday, this proved to be a little tricky.
Luckily, we found a restaurant, Circa 1922, that was open, and we had a decent steak dinner after many days of eating fish. Well, we didn’t forgo fish entirely since we ordered half a dozen oysters to start, a salad, two filets, and even crème brûlée for dessert.
Remember the street shot I had taken earlier? Were the streets now flooded on the walk back to the hotel? Absolutely.
During the two days we were in Wilmington I quizzed many of the people I met on how they liked living there. I got an overwhelming positive response, but truthfully, Wilmington was a bit underwhelming for me.
That said, I’m glad we went. And I loved the photograph of us that the U.S.S. North Carolina team members encouraged us to buy.
Hilton Update
When we got home, I took the time to write their corporate headquarters about our stay in Wilmington. Did I mention that on the last day we were there our parking card was somehow deactivated so we couldn’t get into the parking lot? And a line of cars that was behind us had to back up? And that Lynn had to walk up the ramp of the hotel and speak to someone at the front desk to have the card reactivated? Should I mention that perhaps the valet guys, instead of waiting around to park a car, could have maybe worked inside the hotel dealing with customer complaints (like no luggage racks, clogged sinks, and how to open the room blinds in under 30 seconds.)
After receiving my email, Hilton Guest Services promised to deposit lots of extra points into our Hilton Honors account within 24 hours. They also said they would send us a check for one of the nights we stayed there. Three days later, no points had been deposited in our account. And, since most hotels would have just issued a credit card refund, instead of sending us a check, I questioned why this was being handled this way. Eventually, the points were received, but as of this date, the “check is still in the mail.”
Tomorrow, we return to Richmond (where our vacation abruptly ended three years ago) and will wrap up our trip on Fenwick Island.
We woke up to dark grey skies which was not particularly inviting since this was supposed to primarily be a “beach” vacation. We were determined however to ignore the weather and just have fun.
After grabbing the fair to poor, but complimentary breakfast at the hotel (although the biscuits were pretty good), we went to see the Wright Brothers National Memorial. We had been there years ago when the kids were little, and I thought a repeat visit was in order. I particularly liked the cement markers that showed how far Wilbur and Orville first flew without killing themselves in the process. There’s also an interesting museum which is included with the park admission. Over the summer we had purchased a lifetime National Park Service pass, so going forward, any NPS site we visit will be free.
Jockey’s Ridge State Park
We somehow had missed seeing the dunes the first time we were in Kitty Hawk, and I didn’t realize their scope or height. I also loved seeing all the kites on the dunes; it provided a much-needed splash of color on a dreary day. Since it was our 38th wedding anniversary, I found a teenager to take a photograph of us, and then I took a lot of pictures of the sand and the kites.
Bodie Lighthouse, Then Lunch
We didn’t climb up to the top of the lighthouse, but we did walk down the boardwalk over to the marsh area and saw a bunch of crabs in the water and even pelicans in the distance. It definitely wasn’t a picnic-at-the-beach type of day, so we opted to stay in Nags Head and look for a place to have lunch, preferably on the water. Fish Heads in Nags Head fit the spot. It had indoor and outdoor sitting (most people were sitting inside at the bar), and we ordered spicy peel and eat shrimp to start, some fried fish sandwiches, and a couple of beers. It wasn’t raining (yet), so the day wasn’t totally ruined.
The Beach
I was surprised at how narrow the beach had gotten since our last visit. So much so that if the tide came in, you might get wet. Fact checking my memory, a study by Yale University states that the coastal areas of the Outer Banks are losing about 13 feet a year and in the last two decades they have retreated about 200 feet. That’s quite a lot of beach to lose for a resort community! Still, we sat on the beach in windy conditions and enjoyed the sound of the water and the wind.
I had read mixed reviews about this restaurant but found it actually to be a lovely dining experience. Our server was knowledgeable, and the menu was creative. A crab bisque with a drizzle of basil aioli to start? Don’t mind if I do! What about a flounder special with herbed spätzle with a side of snap peas and sauteed tomatoes? Fancy a homemade dessert? We split a solid rendition of a macadamia tart with homemade caramel ice cream. They also wrote “Happy Anniversary” in chocolate on the plate which was a nice touch. It was not terribly pricey, even though the first wine we ordered they were out of and I ended up spending more money on wine than planned. Still, I loved the atmosphere and thought everything was good.
The Lost Colony (It’s Still Lost)
Apparently, Lynn didn’t pack enough socks for the trip. So, in the morning we started out by doing some shopping. Not only for socks, but a few sweatshirts, too. And, since many of the stores between Kitty Hawk and Nags Head were having an end-of-summer sale on sundresses, I couldn’t resist buying at least two. The damage wasn’t excessive (less than $100 for a big bag of stuff I will actually wear), and then we headed to see the Fort Raleigh National Historic site.
Described as England’s “First Home in the New World” by the National Park Service, it has preserved the location of the Roanoke Colony even though the people who lived there disappeared. There’s also a very popular musical production called, The Lost Colony, that has been running every summer since 1937. The Waterside Theatre reminded me a bit of the Globe Theatre in London simply because like the Globe, it’s an open-air venue. (This theatre is located on Roanoke Sound.)
Lunch, The Beach, Then Dinner
I was looking for a simple lunch. Maybe some fish and definitely some oysters. We had limited lunch choices in Roanoke but found a place that looked a little run down but the food (Lynn’s at least) was really good.
I had a crab cake and should have asked for “no bun” since I usually only eat half the bun anyway. Lynn ordered what looked like dinner to me – a huge piece of salmon with fresh green beans on grits. All I can say is that those grits were absolutely delicious! And I kept stealing bites of his dish as I picked away at mine. See the size of the crab cake versus the size of the bun? Really, it’s quite comical. Lesson learned.
We headed to the beach after lunch. It was windy and a bit chilly, so I reluctantly put on a sweatshirt over the bathing suit I insisted on wearing.
Dinner that evening was more fish and unfortunately my haddock was overcooked. But the Oysters Rockefeller were decent, and they had a weird, but edible rendition of what they considered key lime pie. (It was mostly filling.)
We walked back down to the beach after dinner. I had forgotten that people walk on the beach at night and use flashlights to guide their way. Since it was pitch black and still windy, we just listened to the winds crashing against the sand but didn’t walk down to the water.
On To Wilmington
In the morning, we drove to Wilmington but not before stopping for lunch first. We had eaten enough fish in the last 12 hours and had reservations at a James-Beard nominated restaurant, Seabird that evening. So, pizza seemed like a logical choice, right?
In New York when you order a personal pan size pizza, you roughly get a pizza that’s about the size of a dinner plate. It’s meant for one person (unless you are a mouse), and the crust is usually thin. In between rest stops on our drive further south, I had been researching “Authentic NY Style” pizza and stumbled upon a place called “Abruzzo” in Jacksonville, NC.
We found Abruzzo. We ordered what we thought were two “personal pan size pizzas.” About 10 minutes later two very large pizzas were placed on the counter in front of us. What just happened I thought? I looked at Lynn and he seemed to think we could eat both pizzas, no problem. I had three slices, Lynn had four slices, and we still had AN ENTIRE PIZZA PIE LEFT. I took the remaining pie back up to the counter and hoped I wouldn’t offend the guys working there. I tried to explain my mistake, and they graciously listened to me ramble, but ultimately, they just wanted me to take the pizza home. I explained we were traveling and asked perhaps if they could donate it to a homeless shelter. They just looked at each other and didn’t think that was a possibility. However, before we had even gotten to the car, one of the guys behind the counter had followed us outside. He wanted to give us back the cost of the extra pie we had ordered. I told him that wasn’t necessary but wow, what a nice gesture! (I do hope someone ate that extra pizza because while it wasn’t really “Authentic NY Style” pizza, it was still pretty good.)
The next story will talk about dinner at Seabird (hint: it was extraordinary) and the impending tropical storm, Tropical Cyclone Eight, about to hit.
Originally, this was going to be the continuation of the road trip we started in September 2021 which ended abruptly when Lynn got sick. He is better now and thus, we decided to resume the trip we had originally planned. But once I looked at the map, there were other places I wanted to see as well, so I added them to the list. Namely: Gettysburg, PA, Kitty Hawk, NC, Wilmington, NC, Richmond, VA, and finally, Fenwick Island, DE.
We had been to Gettysburg before but realized as we were touring the Gettysburg National Military Park, that we hadn’t seen any of the monuments. So, I’m not sure what I remember us doing there years ago other than maybe driving around the town. It was humbling, to say the least, to be there on September 11, 2024, and see the statues, battlefield locations, and the cemetery. I took a lot of pictures, but the day felt sad to me. Probably because of 9/11 and also the loss of so many young men.
The biggest monuments were from the states of Pennsylvania and New York. But I also liked seeing the statues of Lincoln and we climbed up the rocks to see Little Round Top and got a sense of the challenges of fighting on that terrain and at that height. The Eternal Light Memorial was also memorable although we couldn’t actually see the light because the sun was so bright at that particular time of day.
We spent nearly 2.5 hours driving through the park and also visited the cemetery where Lincoln gave the Gettysburg Address. I felt particularly heavy-hearted to see the “unknown” markers for those killed on the battlefield.
We had just enough time to also visit the Eisenhower house and farm in Gettysburg, the town the former President and his wife chose to retire in. The house wasn’t open for tours, and we were the only people there, but I loved seeing the house and the vegetable and flower garden. Look at those peppers! And even though I know absolutely nothing about his Presidency, I did get a sense that this was a very soothing place to escape to after being in Washington.
A Funky Hotel, Then Dinner
There were actually more than a couple of places to stay at in the area, but I wanted to stay in town and not spend a zillion dollars. The Federal Pointe Inn, originally built as the town’s first high school, has since been transformed into a hotel. Although it’s part of the Choice hotel chain, it definitely doesn’t look like any Choice hotel I’ve stayed in. The hotel was charmingly decorated with antiques, the bathroom was renovated, and the room was comfortable and spacious. (I mention room size only because I knew that the rooms on the rest of the trip would be tiny in comparison.)
Doesn’t this look like a lovely hotel? I think so. I also loved the fact that some developer didn’t tear down this historic building and just plop down a big box-like building to house another ugly chain hotel.
We walked into town for dinner that night and ate at Sign of the Buck. My decision to eat there was primarily because I was intrigued by the venison steak on the menu. Since I rarely see venison on any menu in the U.S., it was definitely my go to order, and it didn’t disappoint. Also, this summer, I saw a lot of chefs (and home cooks) jumping on the Basque cheesecake bandwagon. I have never made a Basque cheesecake and stopped making large format desserts years ago when the kids moved out. For those who aren’t familiar with this dish, it’s a crustless cheesecake that is baked at a higher temperature, so the top is burnt and caramelized. While this cheesecake was okay, it didn’t have the caramelization I was looking for. (But it did look pretty on the plate with those little puffs of meringue, too.)
BBQ in Henrico
I had tried to plan some stops on the long drive south so we wouldn’t be eating 1) fast food or 2) no food at all. Visiting Redemption BBQ in Henrico, VA, was a bit of a detour, but since they had gotten a recent mention in the August issue of Southern Living, I couldn’t resist at least trying their pulled pork sandwich.
Don’t let the modest storefront in a shopping plaza deter you. When we walked in to order a couple of pulled pork sandwiches to go, there was a sign on the door apologizing for any delays you might experience in getting your food in a timely manner. Apparently, because of the magazine article, the place has been mobbed.
We waited less than 5 minutes for our sandwiches to be made and we were offered free glasses of sweet or unsweetened iced tea. Welcome to the South!
Finally, Kitty Hawk!
We arrived in Kitty Hawk a bit after 5 p.m., after braving Virginia drivers (worse than New Yorker’s mind you), and a line of cars going over the Monitor Merrimac Memorial Bridge/Tunnel. Since the weather was about to turn, we checked into our Holiday Inn and after dropping our bags, ran back out to look at the ocean. (Remember we lived near the ocean on Long Island for 30+ years, but somehow seeing a different part of the Atlantic is exciting.)
Not only did we get a pretty view of the beach, but the colorful prickly pear cactus on the walk to the beach automatically gave the trip a more south of the border vibe than expected.
Dinner at Steamers later that evening proved to be a nice surprise. We made the mistake of asking for a table on the upper deck of the restaurant and it was so windy I thought we’d get blown over the side! I remember eating a really good clam chowder to start, but I think I just kept my head down, ate the soup, and forgot to take a picture. I didn’t forget about our entrees though. Lynn ordered swordfish on a bed of risotto, and I had perfectly cooked tuna on a bed of mashed with some really good fried oysters.
