Note to readers: This is a trip we did late last spring while we were still living on Long Island and before we moved permanently up to the Mohawk Valley.
Since Lynn and I lived on Long Island for nearly 30 years (we moved from Greenpoint, Brooklyn, when our son Nicholas was a year old), we have successfully navigated many roads and bridges to get to where we want to go. Usually the Whitestone and the Tappan Zee* bridges when driving north and the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge followed by the NJ Turnpike when going south. I am proud to say that we have never, ever, had to take the George Washington Bridge anywhere and luckily for this trip to Bethlehem, we managed not to be on that dreaded bridge as well.
*Disclaimer here: I, as do many “real” (and older) New Yorkers, call most of the buildings (and bridges) by their “original” names. For example, it’s not the MetLife building but the Pan Am Building. And, it’s not the RFK Bridge but the Triboro Bridge. And please do not make me say the Governor Mario M. Cuomo Bridge – it’s the Tappan Zee!
Name issues out of the way, after leaving Long Island two and a half hours later we wound up in the town of Bethlehem, a town we had actually never visited.
Time For Lunch – Social Still
Set in an industrial area near the famous Bethlehem SteelStacks, this fun distillery located in an old bank building makes a great burger! While I was eager to try some of what they were distilling that day (vodka, gin, whiskey), I was driving so settled for a beer.
A quick segue here. I’m not a fan of craft beers. Having lived in Munich for 10 years and being allowed legally to drink at the age of 16(!), I’m a snob of what good beer should taste like. That said, I will try craft beers that are Pilsner or lager-like but stay far away from anything that has “floral” or “fruit” overtones. I also like the fact that many craft beers these days list their percentage of alcohol.
From our bar seats at Social Still we had a nice view of the old bank vault where they seemed to store what they had brewed in barrels. I think this shot of the old bank vault door is really cool, too.
Bethlehem SteelStacks
After lunch, a quick drive down the block landed us in the middle of Bethlehem SteelStacks. I’m impressed they chose to retain the space, making some of it into a concert venue, but also giving us the ability to walk around outside of what’s left of the old steel factory. We read about all the people (mostly men) who worked there – often generation after generation. I learned a lot. Particularly that in the early 1900’s the factory actively recruited for workers abroad (wow, things have certainly changed since then) by placing ads in many German, Irish and Hungarian newspapers.
I also liked the fact we could get up really close to all the old furnaces and machines that used to make steel as we walked along the Hoover-Mason Trestle. (The walkway reminded me a bit of the High Line in NYC without all the tourists. )
My maternal grandfather worked for Standard Oil in Whiting, Indiana, most of his life and I took a moment to think of him and all the other men who worked in not-so-good conditions to make a living.
After the SteelStacks, we went into the town of Bethlehem proper, walking around and visiting the “Colonial Industrial Quarter” and also speaking to a costumed guide working at the blacksmith shop. He was a retired steel worker who spent his days talking to a few school groups, the odd tourist (namely us) and anyone else who wanted to learn about colonial PA.
Dinner at Bolete
One of the main reasons we were in Bethlehem was to have dinner at Bolete. On my “bucket list” for many years, this trip was the perfect opportunity to pay them a visit. Chef Lee Chizmar and crew didn’t disappoint. On the menu that night for starters: asparagus salad with a soft runny duck egg and braised beef dumplings. Seconds: soft shell crab with some greens (and more asparagus). For dessert? We split a carrot cake parfait!
And if you are wondering what the word “Bolete” means…here’s a clue:
Until our next “Let’s Go” adventure.
p.s.
Thoughtful of you to mention your grandfather and his years at Standard Oil.
Lovely piece. Made me hungry.